Abercrombie & Fitch
(A&F) ( ) is an American
fashion
retailer, headed by chairman and CEO
Michael S. Jeffries. The A&F brand focuses on
casualwear for a target consumer ages of 18 through 22. With over
300 locations in the United States, the brand has embarked on
international expansion throughout various world markets. A&F
currently operates four other brands:
Abercrombie Kids,
Hollister Co.,
Gilly
Hicks, and
RUEHL No.925 (To be
closed by the end of January 2010) collectively targeting consumers
ranging between the ages of 7 and 35.
Founded in 1892 by
David T.
Abercrombie, A&F had been
an outfitter of sporting and excursion goods. It struggled
financially from the late 1960s until it was purchased by
The Limited in 1988 and repositioned, under
the management of Mike Jeffries, as the aspirational "Casual
Luxury"
lifestyle brand in present
form.
Prominent figures who patronized the company in its excursion goods
days include
Teddy Roosevelt,
Amelia Earhart,
Greta Garbo,
Katharine Hepburn,
Clark Gable,
John
Steinbeck,
John F. Kennedy,
Ernest Shackleton,
Dwight Eisenhower, and
Ernest Hemingway..
History
Management and marketing
Home Office & Corporate officials
The
Abercrombie & Fitch company headquarters is appropriately
called "Home Office" located in New Albany, Ohio
. Home Office is designed as an A&F
Campus of sorts, and is referred to as "the Campus." It is a
secluded, sprawling multi-million dollar complex surrounded by
woods. Nevertheless, it is "centralized in order for all of
[A&F] associates to be able to work together quickly and
efficiently in support of A&F brands." The buildings are a
modern design of metal and concrete. A&F prides itself in its
working environment providing state-of-the-art resources for its
employees to maintain the A&F brand power: "[It is] a retail
playground for the most talented in the industry to grow their
careers." The multi-million Innovation & Design Center (IDC),
called "one-of-a-kind" in the retail industry, has been recently
revamped as so to provide newer resources. The company merchandise
Distribution Centers (1,000,000sq.ft) are located exclusively on
Campus to ensure brand protection. Also on Campus are the mock-up
stores, one for each A&F brand, where it is determined the
layout from merchandise to the atmosphere. A cutting-edge, equipt
gymnasium and chef-staffed cafeteria is also available on "campus".
An anonymous employee called Home Office "a retail industry workers
dream." A vibrant promotional video displays life on Campus on
A&F Careers website.
A&F
also has a European branch in Milan
, Italy
.
The following are the top corporate officials of Abercrombie &
Fitch Co.
- Michael S. Jeffries - Chairman and Chief Executive Officer, Jefferies
has held this position since the 1990s. He has renovated the brand
and oversees all aspects of the company.
- Diane Chang - Executive Vice President of Sourcing
- Leslee K. Herro - Executive Vice President of Planning and
Allocation
- David S. Cupps - Senior Vice President, Sec. and General
Counsel
- Jonathan Ramsden - Executive Vice President and Chief Financial
Officer
- Amy Zehr - Vice President of Stores
Employment
The company uses brand representatives, and now called "models,"
for customer service within the stores. The representatives have
been required to buy and wear Abercrombie & Fitch apparel but
now they can wear any no logo clothing as long as it is within
certain color schemes corresponding with the changing seasons. The
"Impact Team" was created in 2004 to control merchandise within
each store and maintain company standards. "Visual managers" are
responsible for standardizing the store visually. Forms, lighting,
photo marketing, fragrance presentations and brand representatives
complying with the "look policy" are key aspects of the
position.Lawsuits have been placed against the company in the past
years due to discriminatory employment practices. In 2004, the
company was involved in a lawsuit,
Gonzalez vs. Abercrombie
& Fitch (see
Legal issues &
Controversy
and Criticism below), for giving desirable positions to
white applicants, to the exclusion of
minorities. After settling out of court, the company established a
branch to seek minority employees.
Image: marketing and advertising

A&F moose.
The official logo of Abercrombie & Fitch is the moose.
A&F is notoriously known for its racy marketing photography
shot by
Bruce Weber
(renown for his sexual photography for
Calvin Klein and
Polo Ralph Lauren, and work for
Vogue). Rendered to
grayscale, the photographs feature mainly
outdoors, beach, or mountainous backdrops. Traditional A&F
photography feature a dark gray background (used for more "classic"
oriented shots, and profile photos). Common aspects are the
semi-nude males and scantly-clad women. The photography has such an
appeal that Abercrombie & Fitch shopping bags have become
collectables-of-sorts, and its image synonymous with "all-American
perfect models." A&F has also advertised on highway
billboards.
Today, A&F only casts its store employees for marketing
campaigns. Casting directors from Home Office travel to key A&F
regional locations in United States and to London to hold "casting
calls" for the employees in the respective regions aspiring to
become the next "A&F New Face". In an A&F video promoting a
photo shoot, a model described his experience "like a movie star"
being provided a personal make-up artists, numerous clothing
selections, and catered food. A female model remarked meeting "cute
guys" and having fun.
The brand promotes its casting sessions, models, and photo shoots
in its "A&F Casting" feature online abercrombie.com. The
website also provides a gallery of the current photography, and
instores the framed pictures also carry the name/store of the
appearing model(s). "A&F Casting" superseded the original
"A&F New Faces" feature introduced in the early 2000s.

The trademark slogan,
Casual
Luxury.
Abercrombie & Fitch is also heavily promoted as a near-luxury
lifestyle concept. The move began in
2005 upon the opening of the Fifth Avenue flagship store. Being
alongside
Prada and other upscale retailers,
the Abercrombie & Fitch image needed to be on par. The
trademark
Casual Luxury was thus introduced marketed as a
fictional dictionary term with multiple definitions such as using
"the finest
cashmere,
pima cottons, and highest quality
leather to create the ultimate in casual, body
conscious clothing," and "implementing and/or incorporating time
honored machinery ...to produce the most exclusive denim..." This
upscale image has allowed A&F to open flagships in
international locations concentrating on high-end retailing. The
"image" is continued, but the trademark itself is not as widely
used as before.
Overall, Mike Jeffries calls the A&F image a "movie" because of
the "fantasy", he explains, plays out instore. Even some of the
clothing is given "story": "You buy into the emotional experience
of a movie," Jeffries explains,"And that's what we're creating.
Here I am walking into a movie, and I say, 'What's going to be the
box office today?'"
Goods and credit card

High-end "Ezra Fitch" clothing
marker.
Abercrombie & Fitch fashions are casual, and are supposedly
designed for the college-aged lifestyle. The clothing offerings are
available in a variety of colors (black excluded). There is a heavy
promotion of "Premium Jeans", and the brand only carries underwear
for men. Occasionally, there are northeastern college influenced
looks, but the majority of the designs are trend driven.
Women's Wear Daily calls
the clothing classically "neo-preppy". A&F also carried the now
defunct upscale "Ezra Fitch" clothing line, made of high-grade
materials, until diminishing sales pulled it from shelves.
The merchandise price points are recognized as the highest in the
youth-clothing industry. Retail analyst Chris Boring warns that
Abercrombie & Fitch's brands are a "little more susceptible"
should recession hit, because their specialties are premium-priced
goods rather than necessities. Indeed, as the
Late-2000s recession continues, A&F
has noticeably suffered financially for its refusal to lower price
points or offer discounts. A&F argues that doing so would
"cheapen" its near-luxury image, while analysts predict that this
attitude will bring a major financial fall in the near future for
the company.
Abercrombie & Fitch carries Men's fragrances
Fierce,
Cologne 41,
and
Colden. Women's fragrances include
8,
Perfume 41,
Wakely, and
Classic.
Released at the same time,
Fierce/
8 and
Cologne 41/
Perfume 41 and
Colden/
Wakely are marketed to compliment one
another. High-end fragrances
Ezra Fitch (cologne) and
Ezra parfum were described as the embodiment of "the
Abercrombie & Fitch heritage," until they were discontinued.
Cologne
Proof was released in Christmas 2006 to be removed
a year later (though some stores still sell remaining
Proof bottles). Perfume
Ready is also among the
retired fragrances. Fierce and 8 are the most heavily marketed
fragrances as they are the signature scents of the brand
overall.
The company also offers the
Abercrombie & Fitch Credit
Card issued by the
World Financial Network
National Bank. Carriers can use the card instore and online for
all A&F brands.
Brand protection
As the popularity of Abercrombie & Fitch goods increased, so
did the counterfeiting of them.
In 2006, the company launched the Abercrombie
& Fitch Brand Protection Program to combat the issue worldwide
(focusing more in Taiwan
, China
, Hong Kong
, Japan
and Korea
) by working
with legal forces globally. Shane Berry, who joined the
company in November 2005, was placed in charge of the program.
Berry is a
former Supervisory Special Agent from the FBI
, and was a
part of its Intellectual Property Rights Program. The news
release from A&F announcing its initiative stated that the
"program will improve current practices and strategies by focusing
on eliminating the supply of illicit Abercrombie & Fitch
products."
The Brand Protection program covers all A&F brands; mainly
A&F,
Hollister and
RUEHL (shuttered by end of January 2010).
Assuring that its consumers are aware of the issue, the
Abercrombie & Fitch Brand Protection and
abercrombie brand protection features suggest
customers to purchase from authentic stores and to report suspected
A&F counterfeiting.
The company's Abercrombie & Fitch brand gift cards have been
recognized by
Consumer Affairs as a
"top pick" for not having deceptive features such as expiration
dates, dormancy fees, and post-purchase fees.
Stores
The modern Canoe store design features white molding and louvers on
the exterior. The main marketing image lies against the front wall
facing the entrance.The interiors are highlighted with dim
ceiling-lights and spot lighting. Distinguishable aspects are the
lingering scent of
Fierce, an A&F fragrance, and the
blasting
electronic dance
music. An undercover inspection which measured the noise levels
in teen stores in a randomly selected mall, revealed that the noise
level in Hollister, Abercrombie & Fitch, and Abercrombie kids
stores was as loud as 90
decibels,
comparable to heavy construction machinery noise and harmful to the
ears. However, 80 decibels is the corporate store policy sound
level.
There are a few remaining chain store design which feature plaid
carpeting and preppy wallpaper. The company operates 1,128 stores
across all five brands.
The A&F brand holds over 353 locations
nationwide the United
States
, three in Canada
, one in
London
, and one in Milan
.
Flagships
Since 2005, Abercrombie & Fitch has taken great care to
strategically open
flagship stores in
upscale locations within international
fashion capitals across the globe. Four
flagships are currently in operation.
- New York City
/ Fifth
Avenue
: Located on the prime real estate of 720
Fifth Avenue in front of Trump Tower and adjacent to Prada, this "shopping marvel" is the American East
Coast flagship store of Abercrombie & Fitch. It became
the first flagship store for the A&F brand when it opened doors
on 10 November 2005, introducing A&F’s "Casual Luxury" image to
the world. The interior, designed by Selldorf Architects,
reminisces to the original roots of Abercrombie & Fitch as an
excursion goods retailer and is the set interior design model for
all other flagships. Dark rustic wood-paneled walls, rifles and
merchandise (stacked in "a mouth-watering array of colors") in
glass cases, spotted foliage, leather couches, rugs, and notorious
dim spot-lighting make as the décor throughout four floors,
together about 30,000sqft of retail space. A great illuminated
steel-staircase, surrounded by a four-story high mural of chiseled
men in athletic poses, provides consumer circulation between
floors. On the lower floor is the "Jeans Bar" showcasing A&F
premium denim reclined in glass cases. The interior is kept dim
through the use of a closed massive wooden louver system operating
within the windows. It is staffed mostly from NYC’s college
population, which A&F recruiters pick according to their
"looks" and high personal style. Before the openings of the other
flagships, this location served a major traffic of international
A&F consumers (subsequent openings have only diminished with
somewhat). Hence, it the highest grossing store on Fifth Avenue,
sharing the title only with the Apple
Store, with sales between $6,000 and $10,000 a square foot
($800 is considered successful at the most).
- Los Angeles
/ The Grove
: Located in Q30 within The Grove, this is
the American West Coast flagship store of Abercrombie &
Fitch. 25,000sqft of retail space are shared by two
floors.
- Milan
/ Corso Giacomo
Matteotti: Situated on the prestigious 12 Corso
Giacomo Matteotti, A&F's recent flagship opened (along with the
world's first abercrombie kids flagship) on 29 October 2009 at
10:00am (CET). The
opening was highly anticipated by the Italian youth. A great crowd
formulated hours before the opening (with lines lasting until
closing), and both brands generated over $1.2 million USD on their
opening weekend (an unheard of sum for an opening day). The total
retail space encompasses 32,400sqft across five floors (5,400 sqft
of it shared with the abercrombie brand). The company preserved the
original 1939 facadé, terraces and precious marble (from Musso) all designed by the famous Italian designer and
architect Gio Ponti. Meanwhile, the
interior follows the flagship Fifth Avenue prototype, but instead
of the typical main marketing portrait hung on the wall parallel to
the entrance, there is a massive mural of chiseled men.
The
location of the flagship places it strategically a walk away from
upscale Via Monte Napoleone,
Galleria
Vittorio Emanuele II
and San Babila
Square and Meda Square.
A&F's
Milanese flagship is called "the best store in Italy
." In
late-November 2009, A&F released a promotional film of the
flagship.
Other A&F brands
A&F currently has four other concepts apart from its namesake,
Abercrombie & Fitch. While referred to as
subsidiaries, the brands do not operate
separately contrary to the definition; all brands are completely
managed under the same Abercrombie & Fitch workforce.
Abercrombie & Fitch Co. holds full rights and ownership to
every trademark of the following brands.
- abercrombie: Prep-school by
Abercrombie & Fitch Themed as "classic cool" for preteens
7 through 14, this is the children's version of Abercrombie &
Fitch. Uses blue (against the A&F gray), blasts music from
young artists, and spells marketing trademarks all-lowercase.
- Hollister Co.: Southern
California by Abercrombie & Fitch Themed after "SoCal" for teenagers 14 through 18, Hollister has
lower price points compared to its parent brand. The brand's stores
resemble surf shacks with dim lighting, and blast rock music. It is
the first of these brands to offer a personal body care line.
- RUEHL No.925
(Closing operations January 2010): Post-grad by Abercrombie
& Fitch Themed after Greenwich Village
, this brand aims for post-collegiate 22 through 35
aged consumers. It has the highest price range among the
A&F brands. This is the first brand to offer genuine leather
bags and purses for women and at one point, select leather goods
for men.
- Gilly Hicks:
The cheeky cousin of Abercrombie & Fitch Themed after
"Down Under" Sydney, Australia
. The latest brand from Abercrombie &
Fitch, it offers underwear and loungewear for women 18 and up.
There is an ongoing movement by parent A&F to advertise all its
four children brands as being "...by Abercrombie & Fitch." This
is in effort to raise consumer awareness that the four brands
abercrombie, HCO, Gilly Hicks, and RUEHL are
BY A&F
and are not stand-alone companies as some consumers believe. The
anticipated result is a reputation-rise for the spin-off brands, by
being advertised as being offspring of the successful Abercrombie
& Fitch company.
Philanthropy
A&F Challenge
The A&F Challenge is an annual held Fundraiser event by
Abercrombie & Fitch. It features running, walking, biking with
entertainment and food. A&F hosted the 8th Annual A&F
Challenge on September 13, 2008 on its Home Office campus in New
Albany.
The funds raised will go to the Ohio State
University
Medical Center's Program for Health. It
focuses on "women's cancers and the prevention, diagnosis, and
treatment of inflammatory bowel disease."The entertainment for the
2008 A&F challenge was
Five Times
August.
Scholarships
Abercrombie & Fitch partnered with the
National
Society of High School Scholars at the Carter Center in Atlanta, Georgia
on December 1, 2007 to offer $75,000 scholarships to NSHSS
members.
Future plans
After a turbulent Christmas 2008 fashion season with economic
turn-down in the retail industry, Abercrombie & Fitch has
adjusted its plans for 2009 to fit the persisting "environment".
The company's main commitments for the year are the openings of the
HCO flagship (in SoHo), the abercrombie flagship (in Milan), and
the two A&F flagships (in Milan and Tokyo). There will be no
EPS guidance for fiscal 2009. The company estimates its total
expenditures for fiscal 2009 to be $165 to $175 million USD ($125
million for new stores/remodeling and $45–50 million for various
Home Office projects). Plans on expansion in Europe have been
slightly altered.
Expansion campaign
The main long-term goal of Abercrombie & Fitch is to
successfully execute its strategy of flagship openings for its
brands in high-profile shopping centers worldwide. Thorough
research is completed before entering new markets. The aim is
growth at a "deliberate pace".
Canada
Canadian expansion is expected to continue, with more mall store
locations for both brands in upcoming years. Abercrombie &
Fitch has released
abercrombie's
first international store in Canada.
It opened in Sherway
Gardens
, Toronto
, Ontario
on August 21, 2008. Abercrombie &
Fitch has opened abercrombie stores in the Toronto
Eaton Centre
, Sherway
Gardens
and the West Edmonton Mall
. Abercrombie & Fitch has opened three
other Hollister Co. stores in Newmarket,
Ontario
in the Upper Canada Mall
, in Toronto, Canada
at Sherway
Gardens
and Fairview
Mall
in Toronto, Ontario
. Another Hollister Co. was opened at Pacific Centre Mall in Vancouver
, British
Columbia
in early 2009.
Europe
The company has been considering European expansion for years and
decided to enter the European market believing that the demand for
Abercrombie & Fitch has grown strong there.
After its expansion
into the United Kingdom in 2007, where it launched its first
European flagship store in London, and in 2009 in Italy with its flagship
store in Milano
,
Abercrombie & Fitch Co. plans to continue expansion in the area
with key locations - preliminary talks about opening a store in
Dublin,
Ireland
by 2011. Abercrombie & Fitch has been attempting
to secure locations in Italy
, France
, Germany
, Spain
, Denmark
and Sweden
.
- Copenhagen
flagship: To be located at Kobmagergade 11 in a
space (first constructed in 1910), the flagship will be designed to
implement old neoclassical Danish architecture along with the
A&F lifestyle. The opening date has been moved to 2010
from 2009.
- Madrid
flagship:
Although not officially reported from Abercrombie & Fitch,
plans for a flagship in Spain's capital are in the
works.
- Paris
flagship: A
third opening in Europe, this location on the famed Avenue des
Champs-Élysées
in building No.23 is expected to open doors in
2011. Abercrombie & Fitch got the approval from the
French government to go ahead with construction early in 2009.
French law prohibits retailers from leasing space on the
historically valuable avenue without consulting government
approval, all in effort to protect the image of Champs-Élysées by
exclusively admitting upscale retailers. The entrance price was
marked at €2.2 million, with an annual rental
fee of €3.3 million not including tax and additional charges.
Renovations and construction has begun.
Asia
The company has also taken into account the extremely high demand
for the Abercrombie & Fitch brand in Asian markets, apart from
Europe. In 2006, Tom Lennox of A&F stated, "We've known for
some time that there are huge opportunities for us throughout the
Far East, and there's a huge demand for the
brand in the Tokyo market." The brand will target Chinese and
Japanese markets where luxury consumption is noticeably high.
Clothing tags have now begun to carry
Japanese language washing instructions
apart from English and French.
- Tokyo
flagship:
A&F anticipates the opening its first ever Asian retail
location in 15 December 2009 at 10:00am (JST). The opening of A&F in
Asia's premier fashion capital is a realization that took careful
planing. Being a milestone step, the company applied excrutiating
dedication to acquire the perfect location and conditions for its
flagship, ensuring it made a powerful statement in Asia upon
opening. A&F began to advertise itself in Ginza in 2006, and
also began scouting for retail spots in Ginza and Omotesando anticipating a 2008 opening. On 7
August 2007, A&F released to the press it acquired a deal from
Mr. Hiroyuki Tanaka of PROD Co. Ltd to open in Ginza in 2009.
Construction began in Ginza, an upscale shopping location, with
Selldorf Architects signed on for design. Responsible for the
Fifth
Avenue
and Burlington Gardens
flagships, SA modeled the location as a twin of the
New York flagship.. Building constraints (Ginza is
particularly crowded) inspired an "innovative" 23,000sqft eleven
story design incorporating two elevators and a fire glass staircase
for consumer use connecting all floors and mezzanine. The opening
day is highly anticipated by the Japanese youth and is expected to
be the biggest and most successful opening to date in retail
history. This location will become the fifth flagship opening
(after Milan), and the company anticipates opening additional small
retail locations in Japan. A second Abercrombie & Fitch store will
open in Fukuoka,
Japan
in 2010.
- China
locations:
While not in the scale of flagships, A&F is looking forward to
retail spots in China as well.
Closure of Ruehl
On June 17, 2009, Abercrombie & Fitch stated and confirmed that
it will be closing all Ruehl No.925 stores and eliminating the
brand by January 2010.
Legal issues
Since the rise in popularity of Abercrombie & Fitch, the brand
has been involved in legal conflicts over employment practices and
clothing style.
Lawsuit against American Eagle Outfitters
In 2002, Abercrombie & Fitch filed a lawsuit against
American Eagle Outfitters,
claiming that they copied their garments' designs, among other
things. The lawsuit was based on a
trade
dress claim, stating that American Eagle Outfitters had very
closely mimicked Abercrombie & Fitch's products' visual
appearance and packaging. Specifically, A&F claimed that
American Eagle Outfitters copied particular articles of clothing,
in-store displays and advertisements, and even the A&F product
catalog. Despite the admission that American Eagle may have
utilized very similar materials, designs, in-store displays,
symbols, color combinations, and patterns as Abercrombie &
Fitch, the court ruled that there was not an excessive level of
similarity to confuse potential customers, and therefore the court
ruled in favor of the defendant, American Eagle Outfitters.
Employment practices
In 2004 lawsuit
González v. Abercrombie &
Fitch, the company was accused of discriminating against
ethnic
minorities by preferentially
offering desirable positions to
White
American employees. The company agreed to an
out-of-court settlement of the
class action suit. As part of the
settlement terms, Abercrombie and Fitch agreed to pay US$45 million
to rejected applicants and affected employees, include more
minorities in advertising campaigns, appoint a Vice President of
Diversity, hire 25 recruiters to seek minority employees, and
discontinue the practice of recruiting employees at primarily white
fraternities and
sororities.
In June
2009, British law student Riam Dean, who had worked at A&F's
flagship store in London
's Saville Row
, took the company to an employment tribunal. Dean, who
was born without a left forearm, claimed that although she was
initially given special permission to wear clothing that covered
her
prosthetic limb, soon after she
was told that her appearance breached the company's "Look Policy",
and she was sent to work in the stock room, out of sight of
customers. Dean sued the company for
disability
discrimination, and sought up to £20,000 in damages. On 13
August 2009, Dean won her case against A&F, A tribunal ruled
the 22-year-old was wrongfully dismissed and unlawfully harassed.
However, Dean was awarded £6,800 compensation for hurt feelings
£1,077 for loss of earnings and the basic £136 compensation for
wrongful dismissal (£8,013 in total). The tribunal rejected her
claim for disability discrimination, stating: "Whilst the tribunal
is satisfied the claimant's dismissal was a consequence of her
unlawful harassment, it can not be characterised direct disability
discrimination."
In a lawsuit filed Wednesday, September 16, 2009 in U.S. District
Court in Tulsa by the Equal Employment Opportunity Commission,
17-year-old Samantha Elauf said she applied for a sales position at
the Abercrombie Kids store in the Woodland Hills Mall in June 2008.
The teen, who wears a hijab in accordance with her religious
beliefs, claims the manager told her the head scarf violates the
store's "Look Policy."
Other issues
Discrimination against person with autism
In 2009
Abercrombie & Fitch was fined more than $115,000 by the
Minnesota
Department of Human Rights for refusing to let a
teen-age girl help her sister, who has autism, try on clothes in a fitting room. The
amount of the fine reflected the company's failure to respond to
complaints by the girls' mother and its subsequent charge that the
girl in question did not really have autism.
Violation of privacy
A sixteen year-old is suing the company after discovering that she
was being videotaped in an Abercrombie & Fitch changing room by
an employee, Kenneth Applegate II. Applegate denied the claim, but
co-workers discovered his camera days later with the video in
it.
Lawsuit against Beyoncé
Controversy and criticism
Since its re-establishment in 1988, Abercrombie & Fitch has
faced numerous accusations in regards to its employment practices,
merchandise, and advertising campaigns which have been described as
sexually explicit and racist.
Abercrombie & Fitch has also received criticism for its labor
practices, and in November 2009 was added to the 2010 Sweatshop
Hall of Fame by the labor rights group International Labor Rights
Forum.
2010 Sweatshop Hall of Shame
A&F Quarterly
Conservative and religious groups banned the original American
publication of
A&F Quarterly (published from 1997 to
2003) for its sexually explicit nature. The magazine contained nude
photography by Bruce Weber, articles about sex, and recipes for
alcoholic beverages. Also acting as a catalog, the Quarterly
displayed the brand's merchandise with information and prices.
Advertisements for the
A&F Quarterly appeared in
Interview,
Out,
Rolling Stone and
Vanity Fair.
Despite a company policy restricting sale of the publication to
minors, critics charged that the publication was readily sold to
minors. In 2003, an array of religious organizations, women's
rights activists, and Asian American groups organized boycotts and
protests over the publication, and the "Christmas Edition" of the
catalog was removed from stores. However, Jeffries said he chose to
discontinue the catalog, because "Frankly, [he] was getting sick of
the old one; it was getting boring."
Product criticism
In 2002, Abercrombie & Fitch sold a shirt that featured the
slogan "Wong Brothers Laundry Service—Two Wongs Can Make It White"
with smiling figures in conical straw hats, a depiction of early
Chinese immigrants.
The company
discontinued the designs and apologized after a boycott started by
an Asian American student group at
Stanford
University
. That same year,
abercrombie kids removed a line of thong
underwear sold for girls in pre-teen children's sizes after parents
mounted nationwide storefront protests. The underwear included
phrases like "Eye Candy" and "Wink Wink" printed on the
front.
More t-shirt controversies occurred twice in 2004. The first
incident involved a shirt featuring the phrase, "It's All Relative
in West Virginia," a jab at alleged
incest
relations in rural America.
West Virginia
governor Bob Wise spoke out
against the company for depicting "an unfounded, negative stereotype of West Virginia," but the shirts were
not removed. Later, another t-shirt that said "L is for
Loser" next to a picture of a male gymnast on the rings gathered
publicity. The company stopped selling the shirt in October 2004
after
USA Gymnastics president Bob
Colarossi announced a boycott of Abercrombie & Fitch for
mocking the sport.
In 2005, the
Women and Girls
Foundation of Southwest Pennsylvania launched a "
girlcott" of the store for selling
T-shirts that read, "Who needs brains when you have
these?", "Available for parties," and "I had a
nightmare I was a brunette." The campaign received national
coverage on
The Today
Show, and the company pulled the shirts from stores on
November 5, 2005.
Bob Jones
University
and its affiliated pre-collegiate schools along
with other Christian schools have prohibited Abercrombie &
Fitch clothing from being "worn, carried, or displayed" on its
campuses because of "an unusual degree of antagonism to the name of
Christ and an unusual display of wickedness" in the company's
promotions.
After Abercrombie & Fitch raised its price points in 2004, its
products have been described as overpriced. After the company
opened its flagship in London, the brand was criticized in the UK
because the merchandise that was offered to the customers cost
double (or even a direct $/£ swap) the prices found in the United
States.
Controversy has risen yet again over A&F's Back-to-School 2009
collection of "humor tees". A men's shirt proclaims "Show the
twins" over a young woman with her blouse open to two college men.
Two other shirts state "Female streaking encouraged" and "Female
Students Wanted for Sexual Research". The
AFA disapproves over A&F
negligence to the fact that it is a brand looked up to by teens and
wants the brand to remove the "sexualized shirts"
merchandise.
In popular culture
- In the 1967 film, Bedazzled, Peter
Cook's character introduces himself as Mr. Abercrombie to Mrs.
Fitch during a crank phone call, telling her that Mr. Fitch is
having an affair with his secretary.
- The slang expression "Abercrombie's Bitch" and others refer to
someone whose entire wardrobe appears to originate from
A&F.
Parody
Improv Everywhere, a comedy group
that pulls public pranks en masse, parodied A&F's ads featuring
bare-chested male models by having 111 "agents" enter the A&F
store in New York City and remove their shirts. This drew mixed,
but mostly amused, reactions from customers and staff, but store
security quickly ejected the IE members.
MADtv, a sketch comedy television
series, parodied A&F's
homoerotic
advertising images and hiring practices. In these skits, three
Abercrombie
& Fitch Employees are depicted as vain, vapid, unhelpful,
and overly coifed uptight men with names like "Carpenter", "Dutch",
"Cougar", "Turtle, and "Storm". They also participate in sports
such as waterpolo, crew, swimteam, lacrosse, rugby, skiing, and
squash. However, in one sketch, a young woman named "Apple"
(
Alanis Morissette) reminds the
male employees that Abercrombie is also about "girls with
sun-kissed skin and medium sized breasts who get together at dawn
to play topless flag football."
The Abercrombie & Fitch Emergency Department and Trauma
Center
In 2008,
Nationwide
Children's Hospital in Columbus, Ohio
agreed to rename its emergency room to the Abercrombie & Fitch
Emergency Department and Trauma Center in exchange for a $10
million donation from Abercrombie & Fitch. A letter
written by the Campaign for a Commercial-Free Childhood, signed by
over 100 doctors and children's advocacy groups, argued against the
renaming, for the "company's appalling history of targeting
children with sexualized marketing and clothing."
References
- View Competitors for Abercrombie & Fitch
Company (ANF)
-
http://denver.bizjournals.com/denver/othercities/columbus/stories/2009/06/15/daily21.html?s=industry
- Purdue University. Earhart suede jacket, 1932
- Meyers, Jeffrey (1985). "Suicide and Aftermath". Hemingway: A
Biography. London: Macmillan. pp. 550-560. ISBN 0333421264.
- Abercrombie & Fitch careers, Home Office
- Abercrombie & Fitch eye Jil Sander Fashion
United. Published on 26-07-05. Retrieved on 15-12-07.
- Abercrombie & Fitch Italia S.R.L.
Google Maps.
Retrieved on 15-12-07.
- Employees: 'Hierarchy of hotness' rules at
Abercrombie & Fitch
- "National Clothing Retailer Must Pay For Discrimination,
The Defender, winter 2005, 1. A publication of the
NAACP LDF.
Description of the settlement of Gonzalez.
- [1]
- A&F Casting
- 11.0 11.1 11.2 11.3 "Abercrombie & Fitch Co. F1Q09 (Qtr End
05/02/09) Earnings Call Transcript."
- Casual Luxury image from abercrombie.com, Christmas 2006
- SCT - Shopping Centers Today Online
- Abercrombie & Fitch Credit Card
- Informe destaca las mejores, las peores de este
año, by Lola Quintela, Consumer Affairs, 29-11-2007, access
date 02-13-2009
- High Volume Sales - A hazard to your hearing? -
Phoenix news, breaking news, local news, weather radar, traffic
from ABC15 News ABC15.com
- [2]
- Abercrombie & Fitch: apertura store a
Milano
- Hollister Opens the Coolest Pier on the Planet,
A&F Investors, NEW ALBANY, Ohio, Jun. 23, 2009
/PRNewswire-FirstCall/
- Abercrombie & Fitch opens in Milan
- Abercrombie & Fitch in Milan
- Abercrombie & Fitch store opening in
Milan
- [3]
- Abercrombie & Fitch F2Q07 Earnings Call
Transcript
- [4]
- Abercrombie accelerating overseas plans
- fairviewmall.ca
- Abercrombie & Fitch in talks about Irish store:
ThePost.ie
- [5]
- Immobilière Dassault sauvée par Abercrombie &
Fitch !
- Abercrombie & Fitch opens flagship in
Paris
- Elaine Sciolino, " Megastores March Up Avenue, and Paris Takes to
Barricades", New York Times, 21 January 2007.
- Abercrombie & Fitch To Open Huge Store In
Ginza
- [6]
- Abercrombie & Fitch, Ginza: Tokyo,
Japan
-
http://www.audiocasefiles.com/acf_cases/9996-abercrombie-fitch-stores-inc-v-american-eagle-outfitters
- $40 Million Paid to Class Members in December 2005 in
Abercrombie & Fitch Discrimination Lawsuit Settlement
- BBC News: Disabled woman sues clothes
store
- Sky News : Abercrombie And Fitch Lose Wrongful
Dismissal Case Against Law Student With Prosthetic Arm
- http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/england/london/8200140.stm
- Shiffer, James Eli and Jane Friedman, "Girl: I Was Treated Like
a 'Misfit' at Abercrombie & Fitch; Magrath Agrees to Action,"
Minneapolis Star Tribune, September 9, 2009
-
http://consumerist.com/5356685/16+year+old-unwittingly-stars-in-homemade-abercrombie--fitch-dressing-room-video
- Poseurs Paradise! What's it really like to work at
the new Abercrombie & Fitch store?
- Gross, Daniel. "Abercrombie & Fitch's Blue Christmas."
Slate, December 8, 2003.
- Dial, Karla. Boundless. Megan vs. A&F
- "Abercrombie & Fitch to pull tees after "girlcott."
Reuters, November 4, 2005.
- " Dress Code." Bob Jones
University. Retrieved on September 19, 2009.
- [7]
- [8]
- Improve Everywhere. No Shirts. Improv Everywhere's blog post on the "No
Shirts" prank.
- Cut Abercrombie name from ER, advocates say -
CNN.com
External links