Cluj-Napoca ( ; ; ; ; ,
Kloiznburg), commonly known as Cluj, is
the third largest city in Romania
and the seat
of Cluj County in the northwestern part
of the country. Geographically, it is roughly equally distant
from Bucharest
(323 km / 201 mi), Budapest
(354 km
/ 220 mi) and Belgrade
(327 km
/ 203 mi). Located on the
Someşul Mic River valley, the city is
considered an informal capital to the
historical province of
Transylvania, and, in 1790-1848 and
1861-1867, was the capital of the
Grand Principality of
Transylvania.
As of January 1, 2009, 306,474 inhabitants live within the city
limits, a decrease from the figure recorded at the 2002 census. The
Cluj-Napoca metropolitan
area has a population of 379,705 people, while the population
of the
peri-urban area (Romanian:
zona periurbană) exceeds 400,000 residents. The new
metropolitan government of Cluj-Napoca became operational in
December 2008. Lastly, according to the 2007 data provided by the
County Population Register Service, the total population of the
city is as high as 392,276 people. However, this number does not
include the floating population of students and other
non-residents—an average of over 20 thousand people each year
during 2004-2007, according to the same source.
The city spreads out from
St. Michael's Church in
Unirii Square, built in
the 14th century and named after
the
Archangel Michael, the
patron saint
of Cluj-Napoca. The boundaries of the municipality contain an area
of . An analysis undertaken by the real estate agency Profesional
Casa indicates that, because of infrastructure development,
communes such as Feleacu,
Vâlcele, Mărtineşti, Jucu and Baciu will eventually become
neighbourhoods of the city, thereby enlarging its area.
Cluj-Napoca experienced a decade of decline during the 1990s, its
international reputation suffering from the policies of its mayor
of the time,
Gheorghe Funar. His acts
of ethnic provocation against the Hungarian minority did much to
deter investors; however, the situation changed dramatically after
his ouster, with the city entering a period of rapid growth in
terms of economics and demographics—the city's population is
projected, according to Sorin Apostu, a manager at City Hall, to
more than double by the late 2010s. Today, the city is one of the
most important academic, cultural, industrial and business centres
in Romania.
Among other institutions, it hosts the
largest university in the country, Babeş-Bolyai University, with
its famous botanical garden
; nationally renowned cultural institutions; as well
as the largest Romanian-owned commercial bank. Monocle magazine identified
Cluj-Napoca as one of the top five places worldwide that are due
their turn in the international spotlight during 2008. According to
the American magazine
InformationWeek, Cluj-Napoca is quickly
becoming Romania's technopolis.
Etymology

Romanian inscription of a religious
book: "Tiperit en Klus en Anul Domnului 1703" (Printed in Klus AD
1703).
The first written mention of its name – as a Royal Borough – was in
1213 under the Latin name
Castrum
Clus. However, despite the fact that
Clus as a county
name was recorded earlier, in the 1173 document
Thomas comes
Clusiensis, it is believed that the county's designation
derives from the name of the
castrum—which might have
existed prior to its first mention in 1213—and not vice versa. With
respect to the name of this camp, it is widely accepted as a
derivation from the Latin term
clausa – clusa,
meaning "closed place", "strait", "ravine". Similar senses are
attributed to the Slavic term
kluč and the German
Klause – Kluse (meaning mountain pass or weir).
An alternative hypothesis relates the name of the city to its first
magistrate, Miklus – Miklós / Kolos.
The Hungarian form, first recorded in 1246 as
Kulusuar,
underwent various phonetic changes over the years
(
uar/
vár means "castle" in Hungarian); the
variant
Koloswar first appears in a document from 1332.
Its Saxon name
Clusenburg/
Clusenbvrg appeared in
1348, but from 1408 the form Clausenburg was used. The Romanian
name of the city used to be spelled alternately as
Cluj or
Cluş – the latter being the case in
Mihai Eminescu's
Poesis. However,
the city's name was finally changed to Cluj-Napoca in 1974 by the
Romanian Communist authorities.
Possible etymologies for
Napoca or
Napuca include
the name of some
Dacian tribes like the
Naparis or Napaei, the Greek term
napos (νάπος), meaning
"timbered valley" or the Indo-European root
*snā-p-
(
Pokorny
971-2), "to flow, to swim, damp". Independent of these hypotheses,
scholars agree that the name of the settlement predates the Roman
conquest (AD 106).
In
Yiddish it is known as
(
Klazin) or (Kloyznburg).
History

„
Claudiopolis, Coloswar vulgo
Clausenburg, Transilvaniæ civitas primaria“.
Gravure of medieval Cluj by Georg Houfnagel (1617)
The
Roman Empire conquered
Dacia in AD 101 and 106, during the rule of
Trajan, and the Roman settlement Napoca, established
thereafter, is first recorded on a milestone discovered in 1758 in
the vicinity of the city. Trajan's successor
Hadrian granted Napoca the status of
municipium as
municipium Aelium Hadrianum
Napocenses. Later, in the 2nd century AD, the city gained the
status of a
colonia as
Colonia
Aurelia Napoca. Napoca became a provincial capital of Dacia
Porolissensis and thus the seat of a
procurator. The colonia was evacuated in 274
by the Romans. There are no references to urban settlement on the
site for the better part of a millennium thereafter.
At the beginning of the
Middle Ages, two
groups of buildings existed on the current site of the city: the
wooden fortress at Cluj-Mănăştur (
Kolozsmonostor) and the
civilian settlement developed around the current
Piaţa
Muzeului (Museum Place) in the city centre. Although the
precise date of the conquest of Transylvania by the
Magyars is not known, the earliest Magyar
artefacts found in the region are dated to the first half of the
10th century. In any case, after that time, the city became part of
the
Kingdom of Hungary.
King
Stephen I made the city the
seat of the castle county of Kolozs, and King Saint Ladislaus I of Hungary founded the
abbey of Cluj-Mănăştur (Kolozsmonostor
), destroyed during the Tatar
invasions in 1241 and 1285. As for the civilian colony, a
castle and a village were built to the northwest of the ancient
Napoca at the earliest in the late 12th century. This new village
was settled by large groups of
Transylvanian Saxons, encouraged during
the reign of Crown Prince
Stephen, Duke of Transylvania. The
settlement's first reliable mention dates to 1275, in a document of
King
Ladislaus IV of
Hungary, when the village (
Villa Kulusvar) was granted
to the Bishop of Transylvania. On August 19, 1316, during the rule
of the new king,
Charles I of
Hungary, Cluj was granted the status of a city (
Latin civitas), as a reward for the
Saxons' contribution to the defeat of the rebellious Transylvanian
voivode,
Ladislaus Kán.
Many craft guilds were established in the second half of the 13th
century, and a patrician stratum based in commerce and craft
production displaced the older landed elite in the town's
leadership. Through the privilege granted by
Sigismund of Luxembourg in
1405, the city opted out from the jurisdiction of voivodes,
vice-voivodes and royal judges, and obtained the right to elect a
twelve-member jury every year. In 1488, King
Matthias Corvinus (born in
Klausenburg in 1440) ordered that the centumvirate—the city
council, consisting of one hundred men—be half composed from the
homines bone conditiones (the wealthy people), with
craftsmen supplying the other half; together they would elect the
chief judge and the jury. Meanwhile, an agreement was reached
providing that half of the representatives on this city council
were to be drawn from the Hungarian, half from the Saxon
population, and that judicial offices were to be held on a rotating
basis. In 1541, Klausenburg became part of the independent
Principality of Transylvania after the
Ottoman Turks occupied the central part of
the Kingdom of Hungary; a period of economic and cultural
flourishing followed.
Although Alba Iulia
(Gyulafehérvár) served as a political
capital for the princes of Transylvania, Klausenburg enjoyed the
support of the princes to a greater extent, thus establishing
connections with the most important centers of Eastern Europe at
that time, like Košice
(Kassa), Kraków
, Prague and
Vienna.
In terms of religion,
reforming ideas first appeared in the
middle of the 16th century. During
Gáspár Heltai's service as preacher,
the
Lutheran trend grew in importance, as
did the Swiss doctrine of
Calvinism.
By 1571,
the Turda
(Torda) Diet had adopted a more radical religion, Ferenc Dávid's Unitarianism, characterised by the free
interpretation of the Bible and denial of the dogma of the Trinity. Stephen Báthory founded a
Jesuit academy in Klausenburg in
order to promote an anti-Reform movement; however, it did not have
much success. For a year, in 1600–1601, Cluj became part of the
personal union of
Michael the Brave. With the
Treaty of Carlowitz in 1699, Klausenburg
became part of the
Habsburg
Monarchy.

The New York Palace
In the 17th century, Cluj suffered from great calamities, being
subjected to plague and devastating fires. The end of this century
brought the end of Turkish sovereignty, but found the city bereft
of much of its wealth, municipal freedom, cultural centrality,
political significance and even population.
It gradually regained
its important position within Transylvania as the headquarters of
the Gubernium and the Diets between 1719 and 1732, and again from
1790 until the revolution
in 1848, when the Gubernium moved to Hermannstadt
. In 1791, a group of Romanian intellectuals
drew up a petition, known as
Supplex Libellus Valachorum,
which was sent to the Emperor in Vienna. The petition demanded the
equality of the Romanian nation in Transylvania in respect to the
other nations governed by the
Unio
Trium Nationum, but it was rejected by the Cluj Diet.
Beginning in 1830, the city became the centre of the Hungarian
national movement within the principality. This erupted with the
Hungarian Revolution of 1848, where at one point the Austrians were
gaining control of Transylvania, trapping the Hungarians between
two flanks. However, the Hungarian army, headed by the
Polish general
Józef
Bem, launched an offensive in Transylvania, recapturing
Klausenburg by Christmas 1848. After the
1848 an absolute regime was established,
followed by a liberal regime that came to power in 1860. It was in
this period when equal rights were granted to the
Romanians, but only briefly, as in 1865, the Diet
in Cluj abolished the laws voted in Sibiu, and proclaimed the 1848
Law concerning the Union of Transylvania with Hungary. Before 1918,
the city's only Romanian-language schools were two church-run
elementary schools, and the first printed Romanian periodical
appeared in 1903.
After the
Austro-Hungarian Compromise
of 1867, Klausenburg and all of Transylvania were again
integrated into the
Kingdom of
Hungary. During this time, Kolozsvár was among the largest and
most important cities of the kingdom, and was the seat of
Kolozs County. However, the situation of ethnic
Romanians in Transylvania was poor, due to the oppression and
persecution they underwent. This found expression in the
Transylvanian Memorandum, a
petition sent in 1892 by the political leaders of Transylvania's
Romanians to the Austrian Emperor
Franz Joseph. It asked for equal
rights with the Hungarians and demanded an end to persecutions and
Magyarisation attempts.
The Emperor forwarded
the memorandum to Budapest
, and its
authors, among them Ioan Raţiu and
Iuliu Coroianu, were tried and sentenced to long prison terms for
"high treason" in Kolozsvár/Cluj in May 1894. During the
trial, approximately 20,000 people who had come to Cluj
demonstrated on the streets of the city in support of the
defendants. In 1897, the Hungarian government decided that only
Hungarian place names should be used and therefore prohibited the
use of the German or Romanian versions of the city's name on
official government documents.
In the autumn of 1918, as
World War I
drew to a close, Cluj became a centre of revolutionary activity,
headed by Amos Frâncu who, on October 28, 1918, made an appeal for
the organisation of the "union of all Romanians". Thirty-nine
delegates were elected from Cluj to attend the proclamation of the
union with the
Kingdom of Romania in Alba-Iulia on December 1, 1918, later
acknowledged by the
Treaty of
Trianon.
The interwar
years saw the new authorities embark on a "Romanianisation"
campaign: a Capitoline Wolf statue
donated by Rome
was set up
in 1921; in 1932 a plaque written by historian Nicolae Iorga was placed on Matthias Corvinus'
statue, emphasising his Romanian (paternal) ancestry; and an
imposing Orthodox cathedral begun in a city where only about a
tenth of inhabitants belonged to the state church. However,
this endeavour had mixed results: by 1939, Hungarians still
dominated local economic (and to a certain extent) cultural
life—for instance, Cluj had five Hungarian daily newspapers and
just one in Romanian. In 1940, Cluj, along with the rest of
Northern Transylvania, was
given back to Hungary through the
Second Vienna Award imposed by the
Nazi Germany and
Fascist Italy. After
the Germans occupied Hungary in March 1944 and installed a puppet
government under
Döme Sztójay
there, large-scale
antisemitic measures
were taken in the city.
The headquarters of the local Gestapo
were located in the New York Hotel. That
May, the authorities began the relocation of the Jews to the
Iris ghetto.
Liquidation of the
16,148 captured Jews occurred through six deportations to Auschwitz
in May-June 1944. Despite facing severe
sanctions from
Miklós Horthy's
Hungarian administration, some Jews escaped across the border to
Romania with the assistance of intellectuals like
Emil Haţieganu,
Raoul Şorban, Aurel Socol and Miskolczy
Dezső, and various peasants from Mănăştur. On October 11, 1944 the
city of Cluj was captured by
Romanian
and
Soviet troops, being formally restored
to the
Kingdom of Romania by the
Treaty of Paris in 1947.
On January 24, March 6 and May 10, 1946, the Romanian students who
had come back to Cluj after the restoration of northern
Transylvania rose against the claims of autonomy made by nostalgic
Hungarians and the new way of life imposed by the Soviets,
resulting in clashes and street fights.
Palaces on the Someş River
The
Hungarian Revolution of
1956 produced a powerful echo within the city; there was a real
possibility that demonstrations by students sympathizing with their
peers across the border could escalate into an uprising. The
protests provided the Romanian authorities with a pretext to speed
up the process of "unification" of the local Babeş (Romanian) and
Bolyai (Hungarian) universities, allegedly contemplated before the
1956 events. Hungarians remained the majority of the city's
population until the 1960s, when Romanians began to outnumber
Hungarians, due to the population influx that was a consequence of
the policy of forced industrialisation of the city. During the
Communist period, the city
recorded a high industrial development, as well as enforced
construction expansion. On October 16, 1974, when the city
celebrated 1850 years from its first mention as Napoca, the
Communist government changed the
name of the city by adding "Napoca" to it.
During the
Romanian
Revolution of 1989, Cluj-Napoca was one of the scenes of the
rebellion: 26 were killed and approximately 170 injured. After the
end of the tolitarian rule, the nationalist politician
Gheorghe Funar became mayor and governed for
the next 12 years. His tenure was marked by strong Romanian
nationalism and acts of ethnic provocation against the
Hungarian-speaking minority. This deterred foreign investment;
however, in
June 2004,
Gheorghe Funar was voted out of office, with the city entering a
period of rapid economic growth. From 2004 to 2009, the mayor was
Emil Boc, the president of the
Democratic Liberal Party
who went on to become
prime
minister.
Geography
Cluj-Napoca, located in the central part of
Transylvania, has a surface area of .
The city
lies at the confluence of the Apuseni Mountains
, the Someş plateau and the Transylvanian
plain. It sprawls over the valleys of
Someşul Mic and
Nadăş, and, to some extent over the
secondary valleys of the Popeşti, Chintău, Borhanci and Popii
rivers.
The southern part of the city occupies the
upper terrace of the northern slope of Feleac
Hill, and is
surrounded on three sides by hills or mountains with heights
between and . The Someş plateau is situated to the east,
while the northern part of town includes
Dealurile
Clujului ("the Hills of Cluj"), with the peaks, Lombului
(684 m), Dealul Melcului (617 m), Techintău (633 m),
Hoia (506 m) and Gârbău (570 m). Other hills are located
in the western districts, and the hills of Calvaria and
Cetăţuia
(
Belvedere) are located near the centre of city.
Built on the banks of Someşul Mic River, the city is also crossed
over by brooks or streams such as
Pârâul Ţiganilor,
Pârâul Popeşti,
Pârâul Nădăşel,
Pârâul
Chintenilor,
Pârâul Becaş,
Pârâul Murătorii;
Canalul
Morilor runs through the centre of town.
A wide
variety of flora grow in the Cluj-Napoca
Botanical Garden
; some animals have also found refuge there.
The city has a number of other parks, of which the largest is the
Central Park. This park was
founded during the 19th century and includes an artificial lake
with an island, as well as the largest casino in the city,
Chios. Other notable parks in the city are the
Iuliu Haţieganu Park of the
Babeş-Bolyai University, which
features some sport facilities, the
Haşdeu Park, within the eponymous
student housing district, the high-elevation Cetăţuia, and the
Opera Park, behind the building of the
Romanian Opera.
Surroundings
The city is surrounded by forests and grasslands. Rare species of
plants, such as
Venus's slipper and
iris, are found in the two botanical
reservations of Cluj-Napoca,
Fânaţele
Clujului and
Rezervaţia Valea Morii ("Mill Valley
Reservation"). Animals such as boars, badgers, foxes, rabbits and
squirrels live in nearby forest areas such as Făget and Hoia. The
latter forest hosts the Romulus Vuia ethnographical park, with
exhibits dating back to 1678. Various people report alien
encounters in the Hoia-Baciu forest, large networks of
catacombs that connect the old churches of the
city, or the presence of a monster in the nearby lake of
Tarniţa.
A modern, -long
ski resort is sits on
Feleac Hill, with an altitude difference of between its highest and
lowest points. This ski resort offers outdoor lighting,
artificial snow and a
ski
tow.
Băişoara
winter resort is
located approximately from the city of Cluj-Napoca, and includes
two ski trails, for beginner and advanced skiers, respectively:
Zidul Mic and Zidul Mare. Two other summer
resorts/spas are included in the metropolitan area, namely Cojocna
and Someşeni
Baths.
There are a large number of castles in the countryside
surroundings, constructed by wealthy medieval families living in
the city.
The most notable of them is the Bonţida
Bánffy Castle
—once known as "the Versailles of Transylvania"—in the nearby village
of Bonţida
, from the city centre. In 1963, the castle
was used as a set for Liviu Ciulei's
film Forest of the
Hanged, which won an award at Cannes
. There are other castles located in the
vicinity of the city; indeed, the castle at Bonţida is not even the
only one constructed by the Bánffy family.
The commune of
Gilău
features the Wass-Bánffy Castle, while another
Bánffy Castle is located in the Răscruci
area. In addition, Nicula
Monastery,
erected during the 18th century, is an important pilgrimage site in
northern Transylvania. This monastery houses the renowned
wonder-working
Madonna of Nicula. The
icon is said to have wept between February 15
and March 12, 1669. During this time, nobles, officers, laity and
clergy came to see it. At first they were sceptical, looking at it
on both sides, but then humbly crossed themselves and returned home
petrified by the wonder they had seen. During the feast of the
Dormition of the
Theotokos (commemorating the death of the
Virgin Mary) on August 15, more than
150,000 people from all over the country come to visit the
monastery.
Climate
Cluj-Napoca has a
continental
climate, characterised by warm dry summers and cold winters.
The
climate is influenced by the city's proximity to the Apuseni
Mountains
, as well as by urbanisation. Some West-Atlantic
influences are present during winter and
autumn. Winter temperatures are often below , even though
they rarely drop below . On average,
snow
covers the ground for 65 days each winter. In summer, the average
temperature is approximately (the average for July and August),
despite the fact that temperatures sometimes reach to in mid-summer
in the city centre. Although average
precipitation and
humidity during summer is low, there are infrequent
yet heavy and often violent storms. During spring and autumn,
temperatures vary between to , and precipitation during this time
tends to be higher than in summer, with more frequent yet milder
periods of rain.
Law and government
Administration

Cluj-Napoca City Hall
[[File:CL CJ-N 2008.png|thumb|Local council composition:
]]

Map of Cluj-Napoca's districts
(2007)
The city government is headed by a
mayor. From 2004, the office
was held by
Emil Boc, who was re-elected
in 2008 but resigned
the following year to become prime minister. Decisions are approved
and discussed by the
local council
(
consiliu local) made up of 27 elected councillors. The
city is divided into 15 districts (
cartiere) laid out
radially, some of them with their own local administrative
structure (town hall). City hall intends to develop local
administrative structures for most of the districts.
Because of the last years' massive urban development, in 2005 some
areas of Cluj were named as districts (Sopor, Borhanci, Becaş,
Făget, Zorilor South), but most of them are still construction
sites. Beside these, there are some other building areas like
Tineretului,
Lombului or
Oser, which are
likely to become districts in the following years.
Additionally, as Cluj-Napoca is the capital of
Cluj County, the city hosts the palace of the
prefecture, the headquarters of the
county council (
consiliu judeţean)
and the
prefect, who is appointed by
Romania's central government. The prefect is not allowed to be a
member of a
political party, and his
role is to represent the national government at the local level,
acting as a liaison and facilitating the implementation of National
Development Plans and governing programmes at the local level. The
current prefect of Cluj County (as of 2007) is
Călin Platon. Like all other local
councils in Romania, the Cluj-Napoca local council, the county
council and the city's mayor are elected every four years by the
population.
Cluj-Napoca is also the capital of the historical region of
Transylvania, a status that resonates
to this day.
Currently, the city is the largest in the
Nord-Vest
development region
, which is equivalent to NUTS-II regions in the European Union and is used by the European
Union and the Romanian Government for statistical analysis and
regional development. The Nord-Vest development region is
not, however, an administrative entity. The
Cluj-Napoca metropolitan area
became operational in December 2008, and comprises a population of
360,000.
Besides Cluj-Napoca, it includes communes such as Apahida
, Feleacu
, Ciurila
, Floreşti
, Gilău
, Baciu
and Chinteni
.
The executive presidium of the
Democratic Union of
Hungarians in Romania (UDMR) and all its departments are
headquartered in Cluj, as are local and regional organisations of
most Romanian political parties. In order to counterbalance the
political influence of Transylvania's Hungarian minority,
nationalist Romanians in Transylvania founded the
Party of Romanian National
Unity (PUNR) at the beginnings of the 1990s; the party was
present in the Romanian Parliament during the 1992-1996
legislature. The party eventually moved its main offices to
Bucharest and fell into decline as its leadership joined the
ideologically-similar
PRM. In
2008, the
Institute for Research on National Minorities,
subordinated to the
Romanian
Government, opened its official headquarters in
Cluj-Napoca.
Eleven hospitals function in the city, nine of which are run by the
county and two (for oncology and cardiology) by the
health ministry.
Additionally, there are well over a hundred private medical
cabinets and dentists' offices each.
Justice system
Cluj-Napoca has a complex judicial organisation, as a consequence
of its status of
county capital.
The
Cluj-Napoca Court of Justice is the local judicial institution and
is under the purview of the Cluj County Tribunal, which also exerts
its jurisdiction over the courts of Dej
, Gherla
, Turda
and Huedin
.
Appeals from these tribunals' verdicts, and more serious cases, are
directed to the Cluj Court of Appeals. The city also hosts the
county's commercial and military tribunals.
Cluj-Napoca has its own municipal police force,
Poliţia
Municipiului Cluj-Napoca, which is responsible for policing of
crime within the whole city, and operates a number of special
divisions. The Cluj-Napoca Police are headquartered on Decebal
Street in the city centre (with a number of precincts throughout
the city) and it is subordinated to the
County's Police Inspectorate on Traian
Street. City Hall has its own community police force,
Poliţia
Primăriei, dealing with local community issues. Cluj-Napoca
also houses the
County's
Gendarmerie Inspectorate.
Crime

Portion of the city's centre, as
viewed from Cetăţuia
Cluj-Napoca and the surrounding area (
Cluj
County) had a rate of 268 criminal convictions per 100,000
inhabitants during 2006, just above the national average. After the
revolution in 1989, the
criminal conviction rate in the county entered a phase of sustained
growth, reaching a historic high of 429 in 1998, when it began to
fall. Although the overall crime rate is reassuringly low, petty
crime can be an irritant for foreigners, as in other large cities
of Romania. During the 1990s, two large financial institutions,
Banca Dacia Felix and
Caritas,
went bankrupt due to large-scale fraud and embezzlement. Notorious
was also the case of serial killer
Romulus Vereş, "the man with the hammer";
during the 1970s, he was charged with five murders and several
attempted murders, but never
imprisoned on
grounds of insanity:
he suffered from
schizophrenia,
blaming the
Devil for his actions. Instead, he
was institutionalised in the Ştei psychiatric facility in 1976,
following a three year long
forensic
investigation during which four thousand people were questioned.
Urban myths brought the number of victims
up to two hundred women, though the actual number was much smaller.
This confusion is probably explained by the lack of attention this
case received, despite its magnitude, in the Communist press of the
time.
A 2006 poll shows a high degree of satisfaction with the work of
the local police department. More than half the people surveyed
during a 2005–2006 poll declared themselves satisfied (62.3%) or
very satisfied (3.3%) with the activity of the county police
department. The study found the highest satisfaction with car
traffic supervision, the presence of
officers in the street, and road education; on the negative side,
corruption and
public transport safety remain
concerns.
Efforts made by local authorities in the Cluj-Napoca district at
the end of the 1990s to reform the protection of
children's rights and assistance for
street children proved insufficient
due to lack of funding, incoherent policies and the absence of any
real collaboration between the actors involved (Child Rights
Protection Direction, Social Assistance Service within the District
Directorate for Labour and Social Protection, Minors Receiving
Centre, Guardian Authority within the City Hall, Police). There are
numerous street children, whose poverty and lack of documented
identity brings them into constant conflict with local law
enforcement. Following cooperation between the
local council and the
Prison Fellowship Romania Foundation,
homeless people, street children and
beggars are taken, identified and
accommodated within the Christian Centers for Street Children and
Homeless People, respectively, and the Ruhama centre. The latter
features a marshaling center for beggars and street children, as
well as a
flophouse. As a consequence, the
fluctuating movement of children, beggars and homeless people in
and out of the centre has been considerably reduced, with most of
the initial beneficiaries successfully integrated into the
programme rather than returning to the streets.
From 2000 onwards, Cluj-Napoca has seen an increase in illegal
road races, which occur mainly at night
on the city's outskirts or on industrial sites and occasionally
produce victims. There have been attempts to organize legal races
as a solution to this problem.
Demographics
| Historical population of
Cluj-Napoca |
| Year |
Population |
Romanians |
Hungarians |
| 1453 est. |
6,000 |
n/a |
n/a |
| 1703 |
7,500 |
n/a |
n/a |
| 1714 |
5,000 |
n/a |
n/a |
| 1785 |
9,703 |
n/a |
n/a |
| 1787 |
10,476 |
n/a |
n/a |
| 1835 |
14,000 |
n/a |
n/a |
| 1850 |
19,612 |
21.0% |
62.8% |
| 1880 |
32,831 |
17.1% |
72.1% |
| 1890 |
37,184 |
15.2% |
79.1% |
| 1900 |
50,908 |
14.1% |
81.1% |
| 1910 |
62,733 |
14.2% |
81.6% |
| 1920 |
85,509 |
34.7% |
49.3% |
| 1930 |
103,840 |
35.7% |
46.5% |
| 1941 |
114,984 |
9.8% |
85.7% |
| 1948 |
117,915 |
40% |
57% |
| 1956 |
154,723 |
47.8% |
47.9% |
| 1966 |
185,663 |
56.5% |
41.4% |
| 1977 |
262,858 |
65.8% |
32.8% |
| 1992 |
328,602 |
76.6% |
22.7% |
| 2002 |
317,953 |
79.4% |
19.0% |
| 2004 est. |
298,006 |
n/a |
n/a |
| 2005 est. |
310,194 |
n/a |
n/a |
| 2006 est. |
297,600 |
n/a |
n/a |
| 2007 est. |
310,243 |
80.8% |
17.1% |
| 2009 est. |
306,474 |
n/a |
n/a |
Source (if not otherwise specified):
Varga E. Árpád |
The city's population, at the 2002
census,
was 317,953 inhabitants, or 1.5% of the total population of
Romania. The population of the
Cluj-Napoca metropolitan area
is estimated at 379,705. Finally, the population of the peri-urban
area numbers 400,000 residents. The new
metropolitan government of
Cluj-Napoca became operational in December 2008. According to
the 2007 data provided by the County Population Register Service,
the total population of the city is as high as 392,276 people. The
variation between this number and the census data is partially
explained by the real growth of the population residing in
Cluj-Napoca, as well as by different counting methods: "In reality,
more people live in Cluj than those who are officially registered,"
Traian Rotariu, director of the Center for Population Studies, told
Foaia Transilvană. Moreover, this number does not include
the floating population—an average of over 20 thousand people each
year during 2004-2007, according to the same source.
In the modern era, Cluj's population experienced two phases of
rapid growth, the first in the late 19th century, when the city
grew in importance and size, and the second during the
Communist period, when a massive
urbanisation campaign was launched and many people
migrated from rural areas and from beyond the
Carpathians to the county's capital. About two-thirds of the
population growth during this era was based on
net migration inflows; after 1966, the
date of Ceauşescu's ban on abortion and contraception,
natural increase was also significant,
being responsible for the remaining third.
From the
Middle Ages onwards, the city
of Cluj has been a multicultural city with a diverse cultural and
religious life. According to the 2002 Romanian census, just under
80% of the population of the city are
ethnic
Romanians, with the second largest ethnic group being the
Hungarians, who make up 19% of the
population. The remainder is composed of
Roma (1%),
Germans (0.23%) and
Jews
(0.06%). Today, the city receives a large influx of migrants:
25,000 people requested residence in the city during 2007.
In terms of religion, 69.2% of the population are
Romanian Orthodox and 12.2% are
Reformed. The
Roman Catholic and the
Romanian
Greek-Catholic communities claim 5.5% and 5.8% of the
population respectively, while other religious groups like
Unitarians (1%),
Pentecostals (2.6%) or
Baptists (1.2%) round out most of
the rest. By contrast, in 1930, the city was 26.7% Reformed, 22.6%
Greek Catholic, 20.1% Roman Catholic, 13.4% Jewish, 11.8% Orthodox,
2.4% Lutheran and 2.1% Unitarian. Contributing factors for these
shifts were the extermination and emigration of the city's Jews,
the outlawing of the Greek-Catholic Church (1948-89) and the
gradual decline in the Hungarian population.
On a more historical note, the Jewish community has figured
centrally in the history of Transylvania, and in that of the wider
region. They were a substantial and increasingly vibrant presence
in Cluj in the modern era, contributing significantly to the town's
economic dynamism and cultural flourishing in the late 19th and
early 20th centuries. Although the community comprised a
significant share of the town’s population during the interwar
era—between 13 and 15 percent—this figure plummeted as a
consequence of the
Holocaust and
emigration; by the 1990s only a few hundred Jews remained in
Cluj-Napoca.
In the 14th century, most of the town's inhabitants and the local
elite were
Saxons, largely
descended from settlers brought in by the
Kings of Hungary in the twelfth and
thirteenth centuries to develop and defend the southern borders of
the province. By the middle of the next century roughly half the
population had Hungarian names. In Transylvania as a whole, the
Reformation sharpened ethnic divisions: Saxons became Lutheran
while Hungarians either remained Catholic or became Calvinist or
Unitarian. In Klausenburg, however, the religious lines were
blurred. Isolated both geographically from the main areas of German
settlement in southern Transylvania and institutionally because of
their distinctive religious trajectory, many Saxons eventually
assimilated to the Hungarian majority over several generations. New
settlers to the town largely spoke Hungarian, a language that many
Saxons gradually adopted. (In the seventeenth century, out of more
than thirty royal free towns, only seven had a Hungarian majority,
with Kolozsvár/Klausenburg being one of them; the rest were largely
German-dominated.) In this manner Kolozsvár became largely
Hungarian speaking and would remain so through the mid-20th
century, though 4.8% of its residents identified as German as late
as 1880.
The
Roma form a sizable
minority in contemporary Romania, and a small but visible presence
in Cluj-Napoca: self-identifying Roma in the city comprise only 1
percent of the population; yet they are a familiar presence in and
around the central market, selling flowers, used clothes and
tinware. They are an important object of public discourse and media
representation at the national level; however, Cluj-Napoca, with
its small Roma population, has not been a major focus of Roma
ethno-political activity.
Hungarian community
Approximately 60,000
Hungarians live in Cluj-Napoca.
The city
is home to the second-largest urban Hungarian community in Romania,
after Târgu
Mureş
, with an active cultural and academic life: the
city features a Hungarian
state theatre and opera, as well as Hungarian research
institutions, like Erdélyi Múzeumi Egyesület (EME),
Erdélyi Magyar Műszaki Tudományos Társaság and Bolyai
Társaság. With respect to religious affairs, the city
houses central offices for the
Reformed Diocese of Transylvania,
the
Unitarian
Diocese and an Evangelical Lutheran Church Diocese (all of which
train their clergy at the
Protestant Theological
Institute of Cluj). Several newspapers and magazines are
published in the
Hungarian
language, yet the community also receives public and private
television and radio broadcasts (see
Media). As of 2007, 7,000 students
attended courses in the 55 Hungarian-language specialisations at
the
Babeş-Bolyai
University.
Gheorghe Funar, mayor
of Cluj-Napoca from 1992 to 2004, was notorious for acts of ethnic
provocation, bedecking the city’s streets in the colours of the
Romanian flag and arranging pickets outside the city’s Hungarian
consulate; however, tensions have cooled since.
Economy
Cluj-Napoca is an important economic centre in Romania. Famous
local brands that have become well-known at a national, and to some
extent even international level, include:
Banca Transilvania, Farmec,
Jolidon, and
Ursus
breweries.
The American online magazine
InformationWeek reports that much of
the software/
IT activity in
Romania is taking place in Cluj-Napoca, which is quickly becoming
Romania's
technopolis.
Nokia invested 200 million euros in a mobile
telephone factory and a research centre in Cluj-Napoca.
The final
discussions between representatives of the County Council and those
of the Finnish
group were held on March 20, 2007 after the
decision was made to invest in Romania
. On
March 26, 2007 a memorandum was signed between
Nokia and the Cluj County Board, in the presence of
prime minister Călin Popescu-Tăriceanu,
and the facility opened on February 11, 2008. At the same time,
Nokia also located some of its offices in the city of Cluj-Napoca.
The city also houses regional or national headquarters of
MOL,
Aegon,
Groupama,
Perfetti Van Melle,
Bechtel,
FrieslandCampina,
Office Depot,
Genpact
and
New Yorker.
British
investment and financial services group Dawnay Day, owner of the
Braşov
-based
commercial centre MacroMall, says it will invest 135 million
euros in two real estate projects in Cluj-Napoca. The first
project,
Atrium, which has started construction on the
site of the former Tricotaje Someşul plant located in Cluj-Napoca
city centre, will cost 85 million euros.
Cluj-Napoca is also an important regional commercial centre, with
many street
mall and
hypermarkets.
Eroilor Avenue and Napoca and
Memorandumului streets are the most expensive venues, with a yearly
rent price of 720 euro/m², but
Regele Ferdinand and
"21 Decembrie 1989" avenues also feature high rental costs. There
are two large malls:
Polus
(including a
Carrefour hypermarket) and
Iulius Mall (including an
Auchan hypermarket). Another two are under
construction:
Atrium and
Akademia Center Cluj, an
award-winning Nisco Invest retail project. Other large stores
include branches of various international hypermarket chains, like
Cora or
Real.
Among the famous retailers found in the city centre are United
Colors of Benetton, Guess, and Paco Rabanne, while shopping centers
on the outskirts include stores like Mango and Zara. Hugo Boss,
JLo, Pinko, and Gianfranco Ferre have all announced their intent to
open stores in Cluj-Napoca by the end of 2008.
In 2008, the city's general budget amounted to 990 million
lei, the equivalent of over 266 million
Euros (207 million
pounds sterling). Over the previous year, the
budget increased 19% in 2006, 56% in 2007 and 35% in 2008. In lei,
the budgets for 2005, 2006, 2007 and 2008 are 396,303,743,
472,364,500 739,214,224, and 990,812,338 respectively.
Tourism
In 2007, the hotel industry in the county of Cluj offered total
accommodations of 6,472 beds, of which 3,677 were in hotels, 1,294
in guesthouses and the rest in chalets, campgrounds, or hostels. A
total of 700,000 visitors, 140,000 of whom were foreigners, stayed
overnight. However, a considerable share of visits is made by those
who visit Cluj-Napoca for a single day, and their exact number is
not known.
The largest numbers of foreign visitors come
from Hungary
, Italy, Germany, the United States, France, and
Austria
. Moreover, the city's 140 or so travel
agencies help organise domestic and foreign trips; car rentals are
also available.
Arts and culture
Cluj-Napoca has a diverse and growing cultural scene, with cultural
life exhibited in a number of fields, including the
visual arts,
performing arts and
nightlife. The city's cultural scene
spans its history, dating back to Roman times: the city started to
be built in that period, which has left its mark on the urban
layout (centered on today's Piaţa Muzeului) as well as surviving
remnants. However, the medieval town saw a shift in its center
towards new civil and religious structures, notably
St. Michael's Church.
During the 16th century, the city became the chief cultural and
religious center of Transylvania; in the 1820s and the first half
of the 1830s, Kolozsvár was the most important center for Hungarian
theater and opera, while at the beginning of the 20th century,
still a Hungarian city, it became the chief alternative to
Budapest's cinematography.
After its incorporation into the Kingdom of Romania at the end of World War I, the renamed Cluj saw a resurgence
of its Romanian culture, most conspicuous in the completion of the
monumental Orthodox cathedral in 1933 across from the (newly
nationalised) Romanian National Theatre
. This marked an unambiguously "Romanian"
centre, a few blocks to the east of the old Hungarian center;
however, the Romanianness of the town—like the Romanian hold on
Transylvania—was by no means securely established even by the end
of the interwar period. The late 1960s brought a revival of
nationalist discourse, concomitant with the urbanisation and
industrialisation of the city that gradually advanced the
Romanianisation of the city. Nowadays, the
city is home to people of different cultures, with corresponding
cultural institutions such as the Hungarian State Theatre, the
British Council, and various other
centres for the promotion of foreign culture.
These institutions
hold eclectic manifestations in honour of their cultures, including
Bessarabian
, Hungarian, Tunisian, and Japanese. Nevertheless, contemporary
cultural manifestations cross ethnic boundaries, being aimed at
students, cinephiles, and arts and science lovers, among
others.
Landmarks
Cluj-Napoca has a number of landmark buildings and monuments. One
of those is the
Saint
Michael's Church in
Unirii Square, built at
the end of 14th century in the
Gothic
style of that period. It was only in the 19th century that the
neogothic tower of the church was erected;
it remains the tallest church tower in Romania to this day.
In front of the church is the
equestrian statue of
Matthias Corvinus, erected in honour of
the locally-born
king of Hungary.
The
Orthodox Church's
equivalent to St. Michael's Church is the Orthodox Cathedral
on Avram Iancu Square
, built in the interwar
era. The
Romanian
Greek-Catholic Church also has a cathedral in Cluj-Napoca,
Transfiguration
Cathedral.
Another
landmark of Cluj-Napoca is the Palace of
Justice
, built between 1898 and 1902, and designed by
architect Gyula Wagner in an eclectic
style. This building is part of an ensemble erected in Avram
Iancu Square that also includes the National Theatre, the Palace of
Căile Ferate Române,
the Palace of the Prefecture, the Palace of Finance and the Palace
of the Orthodox Metropolis. An important eclectic ensemble is
Iuliu Maniu Street,
featuring symmetrical buildings on either side, after the
Haussmann urbanistic trend.
A highlight of the
city is the botanical garden
, situated in the vicinity of the centre.
Beside this garden, Cluj-Napoca is also home to some large parks,
the most notable being the
Central Park with the Chios Casino
and a large statuary ensemble. Many of the city's notable figures
are buried in Hajongard Cemetery, which covers .
As an important cultural centre, Cluj-Napoca has many theatres and
museums. The latter include the Museum of the Romanian Peasant
(
Muzeul Ţăranului Român), the National Museum of
Transylvanian History, the Ethnographical Museum, the Pharmacy
Museum, the Geology Museum and the Zoological Museum.
Visual arts
In terms of
visual arts, the city
contains a number of galleries featuring both classical and
contemporary Romanian art, as well as selected international
works.
The
National
Museum of Art
is located in the former palace of the count György
Bánffy, the most representative secular construction built in the
Baroque style in Transylvania. The museum features
extensive collections of Romanian art, including works of artists
like
Nicolae Grigorescu,
Ştefan Luchian and
Dimitrie Paciurea, as well as some works
of foreign artists like
Károly
Lotz,
Luca Giordano,
Jean Hippolyte Flandrin,
Herri met de Bles and
Claude Michel, and was nominated to be
European Museum of the Year in 1996.
The most notable of the city's other galleries is the
Gallery
of the Union of Plastic Artists. Situated in the city centre,
this gallery presents collections drawn from the contemporary arts
scene. The Gallery of Folk Art includes traditional Romanian
interior decoration artworks.
Historically, the city was one of the most important cultural and
artistic centres in 16th-century Transylvania.
The Renaissance
workshop, formed in 1530 and strongly supported by the
Transylvanian princes, served local and wider requirements: from
the middle of the century onwards, when the Ottomans had conquered
central Hungary, it extended its activity
throughout the new principality. Its style, the "Flower
Renaissance", used a variety of plant ornament enriched with coats
of arms, figures and inscriptions. It continued to be of great
importance into the 18th century, and traces of it are still
apparent in 20th-century vernacular art; Klausenburg was central to
the long, anachronistic survival of the style, particularly among
Hungarians.
Performing arts
The city has a number of renowned facilities and institutions
involving
performing arts.
The most
prominent is the neobaroque theatre at the Avram Iancu
Square
. Built at the beginning of the 20th century
by the Viennese
company Helmer and
Fellner, this structure is inscribed in UNESCO
's list of
specially protected monuments. Since 1919, shortly
after the union of Transylvania with Romania, the building has
hosted the Lucian Blaga National Theatre
and the Romanian National
Opera. The Transylvania Philarmonic, founded in 1955,
gives classical music concerts, and has since 1965 organised, the
Toamna Muzicală
Clujeană Festival. The multiculturalism in the city is once
again attested by the
Hungarian Theatre and Opera,
home for four professional groups of performers. There is also a
number of smaller independent theatres, including the Puck Theatre,
where puppet shows are performed.
Music and nightlife
Cluj-Napoca is the residence of some well-known Romanian musicians.
Examples of homegrown bands include the popular Romanian rock band
Compact, the modern pop band
Sistem—which finished third in the
Eurovision Song Contest 2005,
the
alternative band
Luna Amară,
Grimus—the winners of the 2007 National Finals
of
Global Battle of the
Bands, as well as a large assortment of electronic music
producers, notably Horace Dan D.
The
Cheeky Girls also grew up in the city, where they studied at
the High School of Choreography and Dramatic Art. While many
discos play commercial
house music, the city has an increasing
minimal techno scene, and, to an extent
jazz/
blues and
heavy metal/
punk. The city's nightlife, particularly its
club scene, grew significantly in the
1990s, and continues to increase. Most entertainment venues are
dispersed throughout the city centre, spreading from the oldest one
of all,
Diesel Club, on
Unrii Square. The list of large
and fancy clubs continues with
Obsession The Club and
Midi, the latter being a venue for the new minimal techno
music genre. These three clubs are classified as the top three
clubs in the Transylvania-Banat region in a chart published by the
national daily
România
Liberă. The Unirii area also features the
Fashion
Bar, with an exclusive terrace sponsored by
Fashion TV. Some other clubs in the centre are
Aftereight, Avenue, Bamboo, Decadence and Kharma. Numerous
restaurants, pizzerias and coffee shops provide regional as well as
international cuisine; many of these offer cultural activities like
music and fashion shows or art exhibitions.
The city also includes
Strada
Piezişă (
slanted street), a central nightlife strip
located in the Haşdeu student area, where a large number of bars
and terraces are situated. Cluj-Napoca is not limited to these
international music genres, as there are also a number of
discos where local "
Lăutari" play
manele, a
Turkish-influenced type of music.
Traditional culture
In spite of the influences of modern culture, traditional Romanian
culture continues to influence various domains of art.
Cluj-Napoca hosts an
ethnographic
museum, the Ethnographic Museum of Transylvania, which features a
large indoor collection of traditional cultural objects, as well as
an open-air park, the oldest of this kind in Romania, dating back
to 1929.
The
National
Museum of Transylvanian History (Muzeul naţional de istorie a
Transilvaniei) is another important museum in Cluj-Napoca,
containing a collection of artefacts detailing Romanian history and
culture from prehistoric times, the
Dacian
era, medieval times and the modern era. Moreover, the city also
preserves a Historic Collection of the Pharmacy, in the building of
the its first pharmacy (16th century), the
Hintz House.
Cultural events and festivals
Cluj-Napoca hosts a number of cultural festivals of various types.
These occur throughout the year, though are more frequent in the
summer months. "Sărbătoarea Muzicii" (
Fête de la Musique) is a music
festival taking place yearly on 21 June, organised under the aegis
of the French Cultural Centre. In September, the Transilvania
Philarmonic hosts the
Toamna Muzicală Clujeană
Classical Music Festival.
Additionally, Splaiul Independenţei, on the
banks of Someşul Mic River, hosts a number of beer festivals
throughout the summer, among them the "Septemberfest", modelled after the German
Oktoberfest
.
The city
has seen a number of important music events, including the MTV România Music Award ceremony which was
held at the Sala Sporturilor Horia Demian
in 2006 with the Sugababes, Pachanga and
Uniting Nations as special
international guests. In 2007, Beyoncé Knowles also performed in
Cluj-Napoca, at the Ion Moina Stadium
. Moreover, the local clubs regularly
organise events featuring international artists, usually foreign
disc jockeys, like
André
Tanneberger,
Tania Vulcano,
Satoshi Tomiie,
Yves Larock,
Dave
Seaman,
Plump DJs,
Stephane K or
Andy
Fletcher.
The
Transilvania
International Film Festival (TIFF), held in the city since 2001
and organised by the Association for the Promotion of the Romanian
Film, is the first Romanian film festival for international
features. The festival jury awards the Transilvania Trophy for the
best film in competition, as well as prizes for best director, best
performance and best photography. With the support of
Home Box Office, TIFF also organises a
national script contest. The
Gay Film
Nights festival, showcasing LGBT culture and cinema, has also
been organised annually since 2004 in Cluj-Napoca by
Be An Angel, the city's largest LGBT rights
organisation.
Architecture
Cluj-Napoca's salient architecture is primarily
Renaissance,
Baroque and
Gothic. The modern era has also produced
a remarkable set of buildings from the
mid-century style. The mostly utilitarian
Communist-era architecture is also present, although only to a
certain extent, as Cluj-Napoca never faced a large
systematisation programme. Of
late, the city has seen significant growth in contemporary
structures such as skyscrapers and office buildings, mainly
constructed after 2000.
Historical architecture
The nucleus of the old city, an important cultural and commercial
centre, used to be a military camp, attested in documents with the
name "castrum Clus".
The oldest residence in Cluj-Napoca is the house of
Matthias Corvinus, originally a
Gothic structure that bears Transylvanian
Renaissance characteristics due to
a later renovation. Such changes feature on other Hungarian
townspeople's residences, built from the mid-15th century mostly of
stone and wood with a cellar, ground floor and upper storey, in the
Late Gothic and Renaissance styles; although the late medieval
houses have often been considerably altered, the street façades of
the old town are mostly preserved.
St. Michael's Church, the
oldest and most representative Gothic-style building in the
country, dates back to the 14th century. The oldest of its sections
is the altar, dedicated in 1390, while the newest part is the clock
tower, which was built in
Gothic Revival style
(1860).
As Renaissance styles survived late in the city, the appearance of
Baroque art was also delayed, but from the mid-18th century
Klausenburg was once again at the centre of the development and
spread of art in Transylvania, as it had been two centuries
earlier. The first enthusiasts for Baroque were the Catholic Church
and the landed aristocracy. Artists came initially from south
Germany and Austria, but by the end of the century most of the work
was by local craftsmen. The earliest signs of the new style appear
in the furnishings of St. Michael’s church: the altarpieces and
pulpit, which date to the 1740s, are carved, painted and richly
decorated with figures. An altarpiece depicting the
Adoration of the Magi (1748–50)
is the work of
Franz Anton
Maulbertsch.
The earliest two-towered Baroque
church was built by the Jesuits from 1718 to 1724 on the
pattern of Košice
and was
later handed over to the Piarists. During the century more
simply designed Baroque churches were built for the mendicant
orders, Lutherans, Unitarians and the Orthodox Church. The noble
families built houses and even palaces in the old town.
The
Baroque Bánffy
Palace
(1774-1785), constructed around a rectangular yard,
is the masterpiece of Eberhardt Blaumann. Its peculiarity
lies in the appearance of the principal façade.
Both
Avram
Iancu
and Unrii
Squares feature ensembles of eclectic and baroque-rococo architecture,
including the Palace of Justice
, the Theatre
, the Iuliu Maniu symmetrical
street, and the New York Palace, among others. In the
19th century many houses were built in the Neo-classical, Romantic
and Eclectic styles. Also dating to that period are the
two-towered Neo-classical Calvinist
church (1829–50), its new college building of 1801, and the
City Hall (1843–6) in the marketplace, by
Antal Kagerbauer.
The banks of the Someşul Mic also feature a wide variety of such
old buildings. The end of the 19th century brought a building
ensemble that fastens the corners of the oldest bridge over the
river, at the north end of the
Regele Ferdinand
Avenue. The Berde, Babos, Elian, Urania, and
Szeky palaces consist of a mixture
of Baroque, Renaissance and Gothic styles, following the
Art Nouveau/Secession and Revival
specifics.
In the 2000s, the old city centre underwent extensive restoration
works, meant to convert much of it into a
pedestrian area, including
Bulevardul Eroilor,
Unirii Square and other smaller
streets. In some residential areas of the city, particularly the
high-income southern areas, like
Andrei Mureşanu or
Strada Republicii, there are many
turn-of-the-century villas.
Modern and Communist architecture

Blocks of flats in central
Cluj-Napoca
Part of Cluj-Napoca's architecture is made up of buildings
constructed during the
Communist
era, when historical architecture was replaced with "more
efficient" high-density apartment blocks. Nicolae Ceauşescu's
project of
systematisation
did not really affect the heart of the city, instead reaching the
marginal, shoddily built districts surrounding it.
Still, the centre hosts some examples of modern architecture dating
back to the Communist era. The Hungarian Theatre building was
erected at the beginning of the 20th century, but underwent an
avant-garde renovation in 1961, when it acquired a
modernist style of architecture.
Another example of modernist architectural art is
Palatul
Telefoanelor, situated in the vicinity of
Mihai Viteazul Square, an area that also
features a complex of large apartment buildings.
Some
outer districts, especially Mănăştur
, and to a certain extent Gheorgheni and Grigorescu
, consist mainly of such large apartment
ensembles. The city, however, does not face the zoning
problems that arose in other Romanian locales because of the
high-density constructions; roughly all other complexes in the city
are built with some respect to the zoning laws in force
today.
Contemporary architecture

"Clădirea biscuite"
Since 1989, modern
skyscrapers and
glass-fronted
buildings have altered the
skyline of Cluj-Napoca. Buildings from this time are mostly made
out of glass and
steel, and are usually
high-rise. Examples include shopping malls (particularly the
Iulius Mall), office buildings and bank headquarters. Of
this last, regional headquarters of the
Banca Română pentru
Dezvoltare is the tallest office building in Cluj-Napoca, with
. Its twelve storeys were completed in 1997 after 4 years of
work and house offices for the bank and for divisions of several
other companies, including insurance and oil companies.
Another
architecturally interesting
building is the so-called "Clădirea biscuite" (
the biscuit
building). This building was supposed to house the local
headquarters of the Banca Agricolă (Agricultural Bank), but entered
in the custody of the city due to the failure of that bank in the
1990s and its subsequent purchase by the
Raiffeisen Bank, to be eventually
converted in an office building.
The headquarters of
Banca
Transilvania, at the intersection of
Regele Ferdinand Avenue
and Bariţiu Street, is also a large contemporary building and was
originally constructed to host the regional offices of
Romtelecom, the public phone company, but was
later sold to the bank.
Cluj-Napoca is undergoing a period of architectural revitalisation
that is set to bring the manner of expansion to the vertical. A
financial centre, containing a
tower of 15 storeys, is slated for completion in 2010 on Ploieşti
Street.
Two 35-storey twin
towers are projected to be constructed in the Sigma area in
Zorilor, while the Floreşti
area will host a complex of three towers with 32
levels each.
Transport
Cluj-Napoca has a complex system of transportation, providing road,
air and rail connections to major cities in Romania and Europe. It
also enjoys a large internal transportation system, including bus,
trolleybus and tram lines.
Cluj-Napoca is an important node in the
European road network, being on
three different European routes (
E60,
E81 and
E576). At a
national level, Cluj-Napoca is located on
three different main national roads:
DN1, DN1C
and DN1F.
The Romanian Motorway A3, also
known as Transylvania Motorway (Autostrada
Transilvania), currently under construction, will link the
city with Bucharest
and Romania's western border. The 2B section
between Câmpia
Turzii
and Cluj Vest (Gilău
) is expected to be finalised during 2009.
The Cluj-Napoca Coach Station (
Autogara) is used by
several private transport companies to provide
coach connections from Cluj-Napoca to a
large number of locations from all over the country.
The number of automobiles licensed in Cluj-Napoca is estimated at
175,000. As of 2007,
Cluj County ranks
sixth nationwide according to the cars sold during that year, with
12,679 units, corresponding to a four percent share. One tenth of
these cars were limousines or SUVs. Some 3,300 taxis are also
licensed to operate in Cluj-Napoca.
RATUC, the local public transport company,
runs an extensive public transport network within the city using 3
tram lines, 6
trolleybus lines and 21
bus
routes. Transport in the Cluj-Napoca metropolitan area is also
covered by a number of private bus companies, such as Fany and MV
Trans 2007, providing connections to neighboring towns and
villages.
The
Cluj-Napoca International
Airport
(CLJ), located to the east of the city centre, is
the third busiest airport in Romania, after the two Bucharest
airports (OTP
and BBU
) and Timişoara airport
.
Situated
on the European route E576
(Cluj-Napoca – Dej
), the
airport is connected to the city centre by the local public
transport company, RATUC, bus number 8. The airport serves
various direct international destinations across Europe.
Cluj-Napoca Rail Station,
located about north of the city centre, is situated on the CFR-Romanian Railways Main
Line 300 (Bucharest
– Oradea
– Romanian
Western Border) and on Line 401 (Cluj-Napoca – Dej
).
CFR
provides direct rail connections to all the major Romanian cities
and to Budapest
. The rail station is very well connected to
all parts of the city by the
trams,
trolleybuses and
buses of the
local public transport company, RATUC.

City bus in Cluj-Napoca on route
32b
The city is also served by two other secondary rail stations, the
Little Station (
Gara Micǎ), which is technically
part of and situated immediately near the main station, and
Cluj-Napoca East (
Est). There is also a cargo
station,
Halta "Clujana".
The local transportation company, RATUC, manages a
tram line that runs through the city. Planned
modernisation will involve the installation of new rail tracks and
the separation of the tram route from road traffic. This will bring
a number of advantages, including vibration and shock reduction, a
substantial noise decrease, long use expectancy and higher
transit speed – - . The route will undergo
major alteration on Horea Street, between the
Chamber of Commerce and the central rail
station, a rather problematic area. This dilemma should be solved
either with the relocation of the track next to the sidewalk, or
through the construction of a suspended tunnel. Another area that
will benefit from large-scale changes is "Splaiul Independenţei",
where the tracks will be pulled back to the
Central Park, so that the roadway
can host two lanes. In the Mănăştur area, under the bridge, the
tracks will be brought closer, while other major works will
executed on the traffic circle on Primăverii Street.
Given the development
of the metropolitan
area, further plans feature the creation of a light rail track between Gilău
and Jucu
that will
use these modernised tracks in the city.
Media and popular culture
Cluj-Napoca is the most important centre for
Transylvanian mass media, since it is the
headquarters of all regional television networks, newspapers and
radio stations.
The largest daily newspapers published in
Bucharest
are usually reissued from Cluj-Napoca in a regional
version, covering Transylvanian issues. Such newspapers
include
România
Liberă,
Gardianul,
Ziarul Financiar,
ProSport and
Gazeta Sporturilor.
Ringier edited a regional version of
Evenimentul Zilei in Cluj-Napoca
until 2008, when it decided to close this enterprise.
Apart from the regional editions, which are distributed throughout
Transylvania, the national newspaper
Ziua also runs a local franchise,
Ziua de Cluj, that acts as a local daily, available only
within city limits. Cluj-Napoca also boasts other newspapers of
local interest, like
Făclia and
Monitorul de Cluj, as
well as two free dailies,
Informaţia Cluj and
Cluj Expres.
Clujeanul, the first of a series of local
weeklies edited by the media trust
CME, is one of the
largest newspapers in Transylvania, with an audience of 53,000
readers per edition. This weekly has a daily online version,
entitled
Clujeanul, ediţie online, updated on a real-time
basis. Cluj-Napoca is also the centre of the Romanian
Hungarian language press. The city hosts
the editorial offices of the two largest newspapers of this kind,
Krónika and
Szabadság, as well as those of the
magazines
Erdélyi
Napló and
Korunk.
Săptămâna
Clujeană is an economic weekly published in the city, that
also issues two magazines on successful local people and companies
(
Oameni de Succes and
Companii de Succes) every
year, while
Piaţa A-Z is a
newspaper for announcements and advertisements distributed
throughout Transylvania. Cluj had an active press in the interwar
period as well: publications included the
Zionist newspaper
Új
Kelet, the official party organs
Keleti Újság
(for the
Magyar Party) and
Patria (for the
National Peasants' Party); and the
nationalist
Conştiinţa Românească and
Ţara
Noastră, the latter a magazine directed by
Octavian Goga. Under Communism, publications
included the socio-political and literary magazines
Tribuna,
Steaua,
Utunk,
Korunk,
Napsugár and
Előre as well as the regional
Communist party daily organs
Făclia and
Igazság
and the trilingual student magazine
Echinox.
Among the local television stations in the city,
TVR Cluj (public) and
One TV (private) broadcast regionally, while the
others are restricted to the metropolitan area.
Napoca Cable Network is available
through cable, and broadcasts local content throughout the day.
Other stations work as affiliates of national TV stations, only
providing the audience with local reports in addition to the
national programming. This situation is mirrored in the radio
broadcasting companies: except for
Radio
Cluj,
Radio Impuls
and the Hungarian-language
Paprika Rádió, all other
stations are local affiliates of the national broadcasters.
Casa Radio, situated on Donath Street, is one of the
modern landmarks of the media and communications industry; it is,
however, not the only one:
Palatul Telefoanelor ("the
telephone palace") is also a major modernist symbol of
communications in the city centre.
Magazines published in Cluj-Napoca include
HR Journal, a
publication discussing human resources issues,
J'Adore, a local shopping magazine
that is also franchised in Bucharest,
Maximum Rock
Magazine, dealing with the
rock
music industry,
RDV, a national hunting publication
and
Cluj-Napoca WWW, an English-language magazine designed
for tourists. Cultural and social events as well as all other
entertainment sources are the leading subjects of such magazines as
Şapte Seri and
CJ24FUN.
In the early 20th century, film production in Cluj-Napoca (in those
times
Kolozsvár), led by
Jenő Janovics, was the chief alternative
to Budapest. The first film made in the city, in association with
the Parisian producer
Pathé, was
Sárga csikó ("Yellow Foal", 1912), based on a popular
"peasant drama".
Yellow Foal became the first worldwide
Hungarian success, distributed abroad under the title
The
Secret of the Blind Man: 137 prints were sold internationally
and the movie was even screened in Japan.
The first artistically prestigious film in the annals of Hungarian
cinematography was also produced on this site, based on a national
classic,
Bánk bán
(1914), a tragedy written by
József
Katona.
Later, the city was the production site of the 1991 Romanian drama
Undeva în Est ("Somewhere in the East"), and the 1995
Hungarian language film
A
Részleg ("Outpost").
Moreover, the Romanian-language film
Cartier ("Neighbourhood", 2001) and its sequel Înapoi
în cartier ("Back to the Neighbourhood", 2006) both feature a
story replete with violence and rude language, behind the blocks in
the city's Mănăştur
district. This district is also mentioned in
the lyrics to the song
Înapoi în cartier by
La Familia member Puya, featured on
the soundtrack of the motion picture.
Documentary and mockumentary productions set in the city include
Irshad Ashraf's
St. Richard of
Austin, a tribute to the American film director
Richard Linklater, and
Cluj-Napocolonia, a mockumentary imagining a fabulous city
of the future. Cluj-Napoca has been mentioned in several
novels, such as
Bram
Stoker's
Dracula, where it is
referenced under its old German name:
Education
Higher education has a long tradition in Cluj-Napoca. The
Babeş-Bolyai University (UBB)
is the largest in the country, with approximately 50,000 students
attending various specialisations in
Romanian,
Hungarian, German and English. Its name
commemorates two important
Transylvanian figures, the Romanian physician
Victor Babeş and the Hungarian
mathematician
János Bolyai. The
university claims roots as far back as 1581, when a
Jesuit college opened in Cluj, but it was
in 1872 that emperor
Franz
Joseph founded the University of Cluj, later renamed the
Franz Joseph University (József Ferenc Tudományegyetem).
During
1919, immediately after the end of World War
I, the university was moved to Budapest
, where it stayed until 1921, after which it was
moved to the Hungarian city of Szeged
.
Briefly, it returned to Cluj in the first half of the 1940s, when
the city came back under Hungarian administration, but it was again
relocated in Szeged, following the reincorporation of Cluj into
Romanian territory. The Romanian branch acquired the name
Babeş; a Hungarian university,
Bolyai, was
established in 1945, and the two were merged in 1959.
The city also hosts
nine other universities, among them the Technical
University
, the Iuliu
Haţieganu University of Medicine and Pharmacy, the
USAMV, the University of Arts and
Design, the Gheorghe
Dima Music Academy and other private universities and
educational institutes.
The first mention of public education provided in the city dates
back to 1409, namely the caption "Caspar notarius et rector
scholarum" ("Caspar secretary and director of schools").
Concomitantly, a
Catholic
school founded during the 14th century also functioned in the
city.Today close to 150 pre-university educational institutions
operate in Cluj-Napoca, including 62 kindergartens, 30 primary
schools and 45 high schools. Their activity is supervised by the
County Board for Education. Most schools are taught in
Romanian; nonetheless, there are some
Hungarian-language schools
(Báthory István, Apáczai Csere János and Brassai Sámuel high
schools), as well as mixed schools—e.g.George Coşbuc and Onisifor
Ghibu high schools with Romanian/German classes and
Romanian/Hungarian classes, respectively. Statistics show that
18,208 students were enrolled in the city's secondary school system
during the 1993-94 school year, while a further 7,660 attended one
of the 18 professional schools. In the same year, another 37,111
pupils and 9,711 children were registered for
primary and
pre-school, respectively.
Sports

Sala Sporturilor Horia Demian
Football in the city features four
clubs playing in the leagues organised by the
Romanian Football Federation,
including one team participating in
Liga
1—formerly Divizia A—the top division in the Romanian football
association.
CFR 1907 Cluj-Napoca (founded
in 1907) is the oldest established team in the Romanian
Championship. During the
2007-2008 season, it won the
Romanian Championship and the
Romanian Cup for the first time in its history.
The
"U" Cluj football team—playing in the
second Romanian league—was founded in 1919,
and its greatest success ever was the 1965
Romanian Cup. The city is also represented in
the
third league, through
CS Sănătatea Cluj-Napoca,
founded in 1986. This team, which has the
Victoria Someşeni Stadium as
its home ground, reached the ⅛ finals of the Romanian Cup during
the 2007-2008 season, its best performance.
Clujana Cluj-Napoca is the local women's
soccer team, established in 2001 by
Babeş-Bolyai University.
The
Ion Moina
Stadium
, home ground for "U" Cluj, was the largest in
Cluj-Napoca (capacity 28,000); it is currently going through a
demolition process and scheduled for reconstruction as a new
stadium
. The next largest stadium is the home
field
of the CFR Cluj football
team, located in Gruia. This stadium has undergone major
refurbishment, featuring various novelties rarely found elsewhere
in Romanian stadiums, and is due to undergo still further
modernisation with the construction of new seating.
"Universitatea" club also incorporates teams in sports such as
rugby union,
basketball (with the successful men's basketball
team,
U Mobitelco),
handball and
volleyball. The city also features three
water polo teams, as recognised by the Romanian
Water Polo Federation: CSS Viitorul, CS Voinţa and Poli
CSM.
Facilities for such sports are located in
the vicinity of the stadium, including the Sala
Sporturilor Horia Demian
, a multi-functional hall designed for sports like
handball, basketball or volleyball, the Politehnica Swimming Complex,
which includes indoor and open-air swimming pools, as well as the
Iuliu Haţieganu Park – with
tennis and track facilities and a new swimming pool under
construction. Cluj-Napoca regularly organises national
championships in different sports because of this large
concentration of facilities.
In the automotive field, Cluj-Napoca hosts two stages in the
National Rally Championship.
Raliul Clujului is held in
June; the
Avram Iancu Rally, held in September, has been
officially organised since 1975, though there were several years
when it was not held. The latter rally begins in Cipariu Square and
runs across the surroundings of the city.
Gallery
image:Piarista kolozsvar.jpg|Piarists' Churchimage:Rhedey
Palace of Cluj-Napoca2.jpg|Rhédey Palaceimage:Building on Iuliu
Maniu Street Cluj-Napoca.jpg|Eclectic architectureimage:Alley
Cluj-Napoca.jpg|A typical alley
image:Statuie Teatrul National.jpg|Statue on
the Opera
house
File:CJROMonumentul
Memorandistilor.jpg|Memorandum Signers'
Monumentimage:Sere Gradina Botanica
Cluj-Napoca.jpg|Greenhouses in the botanical
garden
image:Central Park Cluj-Napoca2.jpg|The
Central Park
File:Kolozsvarx2.jpg|St. Michael's
Churchimage:SfGheorghe.jpg|Saint
George Statueimage:Cluj-Napoca Tailors Tower.jpg|the
Tailors'
Tower
image:Matei_Corvin_Alley.JPG|Matei Corvin Alley
See also
Footnotes
a. The engraving, dating back to 1617, was executed by Georg
Houfnagel after the painting of Egidius van der Rye (the original
was done in the workshop of Braun and Hagenberg).
b. After Transylvania united with Romania in 1918-1920, an exodus
of Hungarian inhabitants occurred. Also, the city grew and many
people moved in from the surrounding area and Cluj County as a
whole, populated largely by Romanians.
c. In August 1940, as the second Vienna Award transferred the
northern half of Transylvania to Hungary, an exile of Romanian
inhabitants began.
d. The 1941 Hungarian census is considered unreliable by most
historians. In 1941, Cluj had 16,763 Jews. They were forced into
ghettos in 1944 by the Hungarian authorities and deported to
Auschwitz in May-June 1944.
e. In the 1960s a determined policy of Industrialisation was
initiated. Many people from the surrounding rural areas (largely
Romanian) were moved into the city. As a consequence, for the first
time in its long history, Cluj had a Romanian majority.
Notes
- Lazarovici et al. 1997, p.32 (3.1 De la Napoca romană la Clujul
medieval)
- Lukács 2005, p.14
- Lazarovici et al. 1997, pp.202-3 (6.2 Cluj in the Old and
Ancient Epochs)
- Lazarovici et al. 1997, p.17 (2.7 Napoca romană)
- Brubaker et al. 2006, p.89
- Alicu 2003, p.9
- Lazarovici et al. 1997, p.204 (6.3 Medieval Cluj)
- Brubaker et al. 2006, pp.89-90
- Lazarovici et al. 1997, p.38 (3.1 De la Napoca romană la Clujul
medieval)
- Brubaker et al. 2006, pp.90-1
- Lazarovici et al. 1997, p.205 (6.3 Medieval Cluj)
- Brubaker et al. 2006, p.91
- Lazarovici et al. 1997, pp.42,44,68 (3.1 De la Napoca romană la
Clujul medieval; 4.1 Centru al mişcării naţionale)
- Lazarovici et al. 1997, p.206 (6.4 Cluj in Modern Times)
- Lazarovici et al. 1997, p.206 (6.4 Cluj in Modern Times)
- Lazarovici et al. 1997, pp.74-5 (6.4 Centru al mişcării
naţionale)
- Lazarovici et al. 1997, p.207 (6.4 Cluj in Modern Times)
- Ernest A. Rockwell: Trianon Politics, 1994-1995, thesis,
Central Missouri State University, 1995
- Brubaker et al. 2006, pp.100-1
- Lazarovici et al. 1997, pp.140-1 (5.2 Dictatul de la Viena - 30
august 1940)
- Lazarovici et al. 1997, p.213 (6.5 Cluj in Modern Times)
- Lazarovici et al. 1997, p.153 (5.3 Perioada
totalitarismului)
- Johanna Granville, "If Hope is Sin, Then We Are All Guilty: Romanian
Students’ Reactions to the Hungarian Revolution and Soviet
Intervention, 1956-1958", Carl Beck Paper, no. 1905
(April 2008): 1-78.
- Lazarovici et al. 1997, pp.154,159 (5.3 Perioada
totalitarismului)
- Lukács 2005, pp.9-11
- Anton et al. 1973, pp.40-1
- András et al. 2003, p.81
- András et al. 2003, p.131
- András et al. 2003, p.153
- András et al. 2003, p.92
- András et al. 2003, p.142
- Pascu 1974, p.102
- Pascu 1974, pp.222-3
- Pascu et al. 1957, p.60
- Jakab Elek, Kolozsvar Tortenete, II, Okleveltar,
Budapesta, 1888, p.750
- Katona Lajos, Kolozsvar terulete es nepessege, in
"Kolozsvari Szemle", 1943, no.4, p.294
- Brubaker et al. 2006, p.112
- Brubaker et al. 2006, pp.17-8
- Brubaker et al. 2006, p.93
- Brubaker et al. 2006, pp.100-101
- Brubaker et al. 2006, pp.111-113
- Lukács 2005
- Lazarovici et al. 1997, p.93 (4.2 Monumente de arhitectură din
epoca modernă)
- Lukács 2005, pp.83-5
- Pascu 1957, p.63
- Lazarovici et al. 1997, p.56 (3.2 Monumente medievale)
- Alicu et al. 1995, p.30
References
External links
Official websites
City guides
Photos

Panorama over western districts, taken
from "Tăietura Turcului"