Irish linen is the brand name given to linen
produced in Ireland
.
Linen is
cloth made, or yarn spun from the flax fibre, which was grown in Ireland for many years
before advanced agricultural methods and more suitable climate led
to the concentration of quality flax cultivation in northern Europe (Most of the world crop of
quality flax is now grown in Northern France
, Belgium
and the
Netherlands
). Since about the 1950s to 1960s the flax
fibre for Irish Linen yarn has been, almost exclusively, imported
from France, Belgium and the Netherlands. It is bought by spinners
who produce yarn and this, in turn, is sold to weavers (or
knitters) who produce fabric. Irish linen spinning has now
virtually ceased, yarns being imported from places such as Eastern
Europe and China.
Weaving continues mainly of plain linens for niche, top of the
range, apparel uses. Linen
damask weaving in
Ireland has less capacity, and it is confined at very much the top
end of the market for luxury end uses. The companies continuing to
weave in Ireland tend to concentrate on the quality end of the
market, and
Jacquard weaving is
moving towards the weaving of specials and custom damask pieces,
made to the customers' own individual requirements. Fabric which is
woven outside Ireland and brought to Ireland to be bleached/dyed
and finished cannot carry the
Irish
Linen Guild logo, which is the
Guild
trademark, and signifies the genuine Irish
Linen
brand.
Irish
linen yarn is defined as yarn which is spun in Ireland from 100%
flax fibres. Irish linen
fabric is defined as fabric which is woven in Ireland
from 100% linen yarns. It is not required that every stage from the
growing of the
flax to the weaving must take
place in Ireland. Flax is not Irish linen—Irish linen is made from
flax. What constitutes genuine Irish linen has been defined by the
Irish Linen Guild. To be Irish
linen fabric the yarns do not necessarily have to come from an
Irish spinner, and to be Irish linen yarn the flax fibre does not
have to be grown in Ireland. However, the skills, craftsmanship,
and technology that go into spinning the yarn must be Irish, as is
the case with Irish linen fabric, the design and weaving skills
must be Irish, and must take place in Ireland.
Finished garments, or household textile items can be labelled Irish
linen, although they may have been made up in another country.
Irish linen does not refer to the making up process, i.e. cutting
and sewing. It refers to where the constituent fabric was woven or
knitted.
Bibliography
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