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Muztagh Tower (also: Mustagh Tower; Muztagh: ice tower), is a mountain in the Baltoro Muztagh, part of the Karakorammarker range in the Northern Areasmarker of Pakistanmarker. It stands between the basins of the Baltoromarker and Sarpo Laggo glaciers.

The Mustagh Tower was made famous by a spectacular but somewhat misleading photograph taken by Vittorio Sella during the 1909 Italian expedition to K2marker. Taken from the upper Baltoro, due southeast of the mountain, the twin summits were perfectly aligned and the mountain was seen as a slender tooth, and looked impregnable. Nearly fifty years later, in 1956, this photograph inspired two expeditions to race for the first ascent. In reality both teams found their routes less steep than Sella's view had suggested. The Britishmarker expedition, consisting of John Hartog, Joe Brown, Tom Patey and Ian McNaught-Davis, came from the Chagaran Glacier on the west side of the peak and reached the summit first on July 6, five days before the Frenchmarker team (Guido Magnone, Robert Paragot, André Contamine, Paul Keller) climbed the mountain from the east. The doctor François Florence waited for the two parties at the camp IV during 42 hours without any radio, when they went, reached the summit and came back to this camp. A lower summit, was first climbed in 1984 by the northeast ridge. .

On 24 August 2008, the North-East wall was climbed by two Slovenianmarker alpinists, Pavle Kozjek and Dejan Miškovič. They bivouaced on the crest after 17 hours of climbing. They decided not to go to the summit because of strong wind. Just after they started descending, Kozjek fell to his death.

Notes

  1. Jill Neate, High Asia: an illustrated history of the 7,000 metre peaks, The Mountaineers, 1989, ISBN 0-89886-278-3, pp. 117-118.



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