Natchez is the county seat
of, and the largest and only incorporated city within, Adams
County
, Mississippi
, United
States
. As of the 2000 census, the city had a total
population of 18,464.
One of Mississippi's oldest cities, it was
founded by French colonists in 1716,
antedating the current capital city, Jackson
, by more than a century. Located along the
Mississippi River, Natchez is the
southern terminus of the
Natchez
Trace Parkway. The city is famous in
American history for its role
in the development of the
Old
Southwest, particularly with respect to its location on the
Mississippi River.
Natchez is
the principal city of the Natchez, MS–LA
Micropolitan Statistical
Area.
History
Pre-European settlement (to 1716)
The original site of Natchez was the main ceremonial village of the
Natchez (pronounced "Nochi") Indian
tribe, who occupied the area for countless generations (and whose
culture was unbroken since the 8th-century, according to
archaeological findings). Many early explorers, including
Hernando De Soto, La Salle and Bienville,
made contact with the Natchez, some of whom left detailed records
of their encounters. The Natchez's society was divided into nobles
and commoners according to
matrilineal
descent. The supreme Natchez chief, the "Great Sun", owed his
position to the rank of his mother.
The flat-topped ceremonial mounds built by the Natchez show the
influence of moundbuilding cultures to the north in the Middle
Mississippi River Valley (see
Mississippian culture).
At Natchez, the
Grand Village of
the Natchez
Indians is preserved as a National Historic Landmark (NHL)
and maintained by the Mississippi Department of Archives and
History. Nearby Emerald Mound, an earlier NHL ceremonial
center also in Adams County, may be visited just off the
Natchez Trace Parkway at mile marker
10.2.
Colonial history (1716-1783)
In 1716 the French founded
Fort Rosalie
to protect their trading post established in the Natchez territory
in 1714. Permanent French settlements and plantations were
subsequently established. The French inhabitants of the "Natchez
colony" often found themselves in conflict with the Natchez, who
were increasingly split into pro-French and pro-English
factions.
After several smaller wars, the Natchez (together with Chickasaws
and Yasous) launched a final war in November 1729, which came to be
known as the "Natchez War" or Natchez Massacre, during which they
destroyed the French colony at Natchez. On
November 28,
1729, the
Natchez Indians killed a total of 229 French colonists: 138 men, 35
women, and 56 children (the largest death toll by an Indian attack
in Mississippi's history). Counterattacks by the French and their
Indian allies over the next two years resulted in most of the
Natchez Indians being killed, enslaved, or forced to flee as
refugees.
After surrender in 1731, the leader and
several hundred prisoners were taken to New Orleans
to be sold as slaves and shipped to Saint-Domingue, as ordered by the French
prime minister Maurepas.
Many of the refugees who escaped enslavement ultimately became part
of the
Creek and
Cherokee nations. Descendants of the Natchez
diaspora survive as the
Natchez
Nation, a treaty tribe and confederate of the federally
recognized
Muscogee Nation
with a sovereign traditional government.
Subsequently, Fort
Rosalie and the surrounding town, which was renamed after the
extinguished tribe, spent periods under British
and then
Spanish
colonial rule before finally being ceded by Great
Britain to the United
States
under the terms of the Treaty of Paris .
Spain was not a party to the treaty, and it was Spanish forces that
had taken Natchez from the British. Although the Spanish were
loosely allied with the American colonists, it was more an alliance
of convenience for them, as an opportunity to advance their
interests at the expense of the British. Once the war was over, the
Spanish were not particularly inclined to give up that which they
had taken by force. For a time, possession was, indeed,
"nine-tenths of the law" as far as Natchez was concerned, and the
Spanish retained control. A census of the Natchez district taken
after the war in 1784 counted 1,619 people, including 498
African-American slaves.
Under the early republic (1783-1860)

"The Parsonage", Historic house in
Natchez, Mississippi.
In the
late 18th-century Natchez was the starting point of the Natchez Trace overland route, which ran from
Natchez to Nashville,
Tennessee
through what is now Mississippi
, Alabama
, and
Tennessee
. Produce and goods were transported by the
flatboatmen and
keelboatmen, who usually sold their wares at
Natchez or New Orleans, including their boats (as lumber). They
then made the long trek back north overland to their homes. The
boatmen were locally called "Kaintucks" because they were usually
from Kentucky, although the entire Ohio River Valley was
well-represented among their numbers.
On
October 27,
1795,
the U.S. and Spanish signed the
Treaty of San Lorenzo, finally
settling their decade-long boundary dispute, by which all Spanish
claims to Natchez were formally surrendered to the United States.
However, it took another three years for the official orders to
reach the Spanish garrison there, which then surrendered the fort
and possession of Natchez to American forces led by Captain Isaac
Guion on March 30, 1798. A week later, when the
Mississippi Territory was created by
the
Adams administration, Natchez became
its first capital. After several years as the territorial capital,
a new capital was built six miles to the east and named
"Washington" (also located in Adams County).
After roughly fifteen
years in this role, on 10 December 1817, the capital reverted back
to Natchez, which became the first capital of the new state of
Mississippi
, before being transferred yet again to Washington
sometime later. Finally, as the
state's population shifted north and eastward, the capital was
moved to the more centrally located city of Jackson
in 1822.
Throughout the course of the early nineteenth century, however,
Natchez remained the center of economic activity for the young
state, due to its strategic location on the high bluffs on the
eastern bank of the
Mississippi
River, which had enabled it to develop into a bustling port.
At
Natchez, many local plantation owners
loaded their cotton onto steamboats at the landing known as
Natchez-Under-the-Hill [18532]and transported their wares downriver to
New
Orleans
or, sometimes, upriver to St. Louis,
Missouri
or Cincinnati, Ohio
, where the cotton would be sold and transported to
northern and European spinning mills.
The
Natchez District, along with the
Sea Islands of South Carolina
and Georgia
, pioneered cotton agriculture in the United
States. Until new hybridized breeds of cotton were created
in the early nineteenth century, it was unprofitable to grow cotton
in the United States anywhere other than those latter two areas.
Although South Carolina came to dominate the cotton plantation
culture of much of the
Antebellum
South, it was the Natchez District that first experimented with
hybridization, making the cotton boom possible.
On
May 7,
1840, an intense
tornado struck Natchez. This tornado killed
269 persons, most of whom were on
flatboats
in the
Mississippi River.
The
tornado killed 317 persons in all, making it the second deadliest
tornado in United
States
history. This tornado is today known as the
"
Great Natchez Tornado."
The terrain around Natchez on the Mississippi side of the river is
hilly.
The city sits on a high bluff above the
Mississippi River; to reach the riverbank, one must travel down a
steep road to the landing called Silver Street, which is in marked
contrast to the flat "delta" lowland found across the river
surrounding the city of Vidalia, Louisiana
. Today, Natchez is well-known for the
numerous
antebellum mansions and estates
built by its early 19th-century planter society, many of whom owned
plantations in Louisiana but chose to locate their homes on the
higher ground in Mississippi. Prior to the
American Civil War, Natchez had the most
millionaires per capita of any city in the United States, making it
arguably the wealthiest city in the nation at the time. It was
frequented by notables such as
Aaron
Burr,
Henry Clay,
Andrew Jackson,
Zachary Taylor and
Jefferson Davis.
Today the city boasts
that it has more antebellum homes than anywhere else in the United
States, partly due to the fact that during the War Natchez was spared the destruction of
many other Southern cities,
such as Vicksburg
to the north.
American Civil War (1861-1865)
During the Civil War, Natchez remained largely undisturbed, but not
entirely. Natchez surrendered to
Flag-Officer David G. Farragut after the fall of New Orleans in
May 1862. In September, 1863, the Union ironclad
USS Essex, under Capt.
William D. Porter shelled the town but caused only
minor damage, although a seven year-old Jewish girl named Rosalie
Beekman was tragically killed. Union troops under
Ulysses S. Grant
occupied Natchez in 1863; Grant set up his temporary headquarters
in the Natchez mansion Rosalie
. Confederate army forces attempted to
recapture Natchez in December 1863 but did not attack the town
itself because the C.S.A. forces were outnumbered.
Like almost everywhere else in the United States, numerous Natchez
residents did in fact fight or otherwise participate in the war and
many families lost their antebellum fortunes. The fact that the
town was largely spared the horrors of the war is illustrated by
the legend of the Battle of Natchez. According to this story, while
Union troops were being housed in Natchez, civilians and regular
bar owners gathered at the river landing to watch Union gunboats
travel the Mississippi River from Vicksburg down to New Orleans. In
one passing, a Union gunboat fired a blank from a cannon to rile up
the Union troops at Fort Rosalie. This caused an elderly man to
have a heart attack at Under the Hill–the one casualty in the
Battle of Natchez.
Despite the city's relatively peaceful atmosphere under Union
occupation, Natchez residents remained somewhat defiant of the
Federal authorities. In 1864, the
Roman
Catholic bishop of the
Diocese of Natchez,
William Henry Elder, refused to
obey a federal order to compel his parishioners to pray for the
President of the United
States.
In response, the federals arrested Elder,
jailed him briefly and then banished him across the river to
Confederate-held Vidalia, Louisiana
. Elder was eventually allowed to return to
Natchez and resume his clerical duties there, staying until 1880,
when he was elevated to
archbishop of
Cincinnati.
Postwar period (1865-present)
Natchez was able to make a rapid economic comeback in the postwar
years, with the resumption of much of the commercial traffic on the
Mississippi River. In addition to cotton, the development of local
industries such as logging added to the exports through the city's
wharf.
In
return, Natchez saw an influx of manufactured goods from Northern
markets such as Cincinnati, Pittsburgh
, and St. Louis.
The city's prominent place in Mississippi River commerce over the
nineteenth century has been illustrated by the nine different
steamboats plying the lower river between 1823 and 1918 that were
named
Natchez, many of which were built for and commanded
by the famous Captain, Thomas P. Leathers, whom
Jefferson Davis had wanted to head the
Confederate defense
fleet on the Mississippi River, though this appointment never was
concluded. In 1885, the
Anchor Line,
known for its luxury steamboats operating between St. Louis and New
Orleans, launched its "brag boat", the
City of Natchez.
This ship
survived only a year before succumbing to a fire at Cairo,
Illinois
, on 28
December 1886. Since 1975, an excursion steamboat at New
Orleans has also borne the name
Natchez.
Such river commerce sustained the city's economic growth until just
after the turn of the twentieth century, when steamboat traffic
began to be replaced by the
railroads. The
city's economy declined over the course of the century, as in many
Mississippi river towns, although tourism has helped compensate for
the decline.
In 1940, 209 people died in a fire at the
Rhythm Night Club. This fire has been
noted as the fourth deadliest fire in U.S. history.
A cinema verite account of the 1966 Civil Rights actions by local
NAACP leaders in Natchez was depicted by filmmaker Ed Pincus in his
film "Black Natchez." The film highlights the attempt to organize a
black community in the
Deep South in 1965
during the heyday of the
Civil
Rights Movement. A black leader has been car-bombed and a
struggle ensues in the black community for control. A group of
black men organize a chapter of the Deacons for Defense--a secret
armed self-defense group. The community splits between more
conservative and activist elements.
Natchez
is also home to Small Luxury Hotel Monmouth Plantation
, a circa 1818 Mansion once owned by Mexican War
hero John Anthony
Quitman.
Disney's
The Adventures of Huck
Finn was partially filmed here in 1993. The 1982
television movie Rascals and Robbers:
The Adventures of Tom Sawyer and Huck Finn was also filmed
here. The television mini-series
Beulah Land was also
filmed in Natchez, as well a number of individual weekly shows of
the TV drama
The Mississippi, starring
Ralph Waite.
Geography
Natchez is located at 31°33'16" latitude, 91°23'15" longitude
(31.554393, -91.387566) .
According to the
United
States Census Bureau, the city has a total area of
13.9 square miles (35.9 km²), of which, 13.2 square
miles (34.2 km²) of it is land and 0.6 square miles
(1.7 km²) of it is water. The total area is 4.62% water.
Demographics
As of the
census of 2000, there were 18,464
people, 7,591 households, and 4,858 families residing in the city.
The
population density was
1,398.3 people per square mile (540.1/km²). There were 8,479
housing units at an average density of 642.1/sq mi
(248.0/km²). The racial makeup of the city was 44.18%
White, 54.49%
African American, 0.11%
Native American, 0.38%
Asian, 0.02%
Pacific Islander, 0.18% from
other races, and 0.63% from two
or more races. 0.70% of the population were
Hispanic or
Latino of any race.
There were 7,591 households out of which 29.7% had children under
the age of 18 living with them, 36.6% were
married couples living together, 23.5% had a female
householder with no husband present, and 36.0% were non-families.
32.4% of all households were made up of individuals and 14.6% had
someone living alone who was 65 years of age or older. The average
household size was 2.37 and the average family size was 3.00.
In the city the population was spread out with 26.5% under the age
of 18, 8.8% from 18 to 24, 24.3% from 25 to 44, 22.4% from 45 to
64, and 18.0% who were 65 years of age or older. The median age was
38 years. For every 100 females there were 81.5 males. For every
100 females age 18 and over, there were 76.7 males.
The median income for a household in the city was $25,117, and the
median income for a family was $29,723. Males had a median income
of $31,323 versus $20,829 for females. The
per capita income for the city was
$16,868. 28.6% of the population and 25.1% of families were below
the
poverty line. 41.6% of those under
the age of 18 and 23.3% of those 65 and older were living below the
poverty line.
Education
Natchez
is the home to Alcorn State University
's Natchez Campus. The campus is home to the
university's nursing school and master's of business administration
program. Copiah-Lincoln Community College also operates a campus in
Natchez.
The city of Natchez and the county of Adams operate one public
school system, the
Natchez-Adams School District
[18533]. The district comprises eight schools. They
are Susie B. West, Morgantown, Gilmer McLaurin, Joseph F Frazier,
Robert Lewis Middle School, Central Alternative School, Natchez
High School, and Fallin Career and Technology Center.
In Natchez, there are a number of private and parochial schools.
Trinity Episcopal Day
School is PK-12 school founded by the Trinity Episcopal Church.
Trinity Episcopal Day School and Adams County Christian School are
both members of the
Mississippi Private School Association. Cathedral
School is also a PK-12 school in the city. It is affiliated
with the Roman Catholic Church
St.
Mary Basilica. Holy Family Catholic School, founded in 1890, is
a PK-3 school affiliated with Holy Family Catholic Church.
Transportation
Highways
U.S.
Route 61 runs north-south, parallel to the
Mississippi River, linking Natchez with Port Gibson,
Mississippi
, Woodville, Mississippi
, and Baton Rouge, Louisiana
.
U.S.
Route 84 runs east-west and bridges the
Mississippi, connecting it with Vidalia, Louisiana, and Brookhaven,
Mississippi
.
U.S.
Route 65 runs north from Natchez along the
west bank of the Mississippi through Ferriday
and Waterproof, Louisiana
.
U.S.
Route 98 runs east from Natchez towards
Bude
and McComb, Mississippi
.
Mississippi Highway 555 runs north
from the center of Natchez to where it joins Mississippi Highway
554.
Mississippi Highway 554 runs from
the north side of the city to where it joins U.S. Highway 84
northeast of town.
Rail
Natchez is served by rail lines, which today carry only
freight.
Air
Natchez
is served by the Natchez-Adams County Airport
, which services general aviation.
The
nearest airport with commercial service is Baton Rouge
Metropolitan Airport
, 85 miles to the south on US 61.
Suburbs
Natchez's surrounding communities (collectively known as the
"Miss-Lou") include:
- Cloverdale, Mississippi
- Canonsburg, Mississippi
- Jonesville, Louisiana
- Morgantown, Mississippi
- Kingston, Mississippi
- Cranfield, Mississippi
- Vidalia, Louisiana
- Pine Ridge, Mississippi
- Washington, Mississippi

- Monterrey, Louisiana
- Church Hill, Mississippi
- Sibley, Mississippi
- Stanton, Mississippi
- Roxie, Mississippi
Famous Natchezians
- Campbell Brown, Emmy
award-winning journalist who is currently a political anchor for
CNN and formerly NBC grew up in Natchez and attended both Trinity
Episcopal and Cathedral High School.
- Varina Howell Davis, first
lady of the Confederate
States of America, was born, raised, and married in
Natchez.
- Novelist and motivational author Kenneth R. Besser grew up in
Natchez.
- Novelist Richard Wright,
author of Black Boy and Native Son, was born
twenty-two miles east of Natchez.
- Robert H. Adams, former United States Senator from Mississippi
.
- William Wirt Adams, Confederate Army officer, grew up in
Natchez.
- Troyce Guice,
Natchez restaurant owner, was twice a
candidate for the United State Senate from Louisiana

- Lynda Lee Mead, Miss Mississippi in 1959 and Miss America in 1960. A Natchez city street,
Lynda Lee Drive, is named in her honor.
- It was the birthplace of country singer Mickey Gilley.
- Minnesota Vikings cornerback Cedric Griffin was born in Natchez, but was raised in San Antonio,
Texas
.
- University of Pittsburgh
All-American defensive end Hugh Green was born and
raised in Natchez.
- Pro Football Hall of Famer Billy Shaw
was born in Natchez.
- Greg Iles, best-selling author of many
novels set in Natchez, is a Natchez native.
- Glen Ballard, a five-time Grammy Award winning songwriter/producer.
- Denise Gee, national food/home design writer and author of
"Southern Cocktails", is a native of Natchez.
- Hound Dog Taylor, a blues
singer and slide guitar player.
- Pierre Adolphe Rost, a
member of the Mississippi Senate
and commissioner to Europe for the Confederate States. Emigrated to Natchez
from France
.
- Alexander O'Neal, R&B
singer.
- Nook Logan, Baseball player for the
Washington Nationals. Regarded as one of the fastest players in the
majors.
- Anne Moody, Civil Rights activist and author of
Coming of Age in
Mississippi, attended Natchez Junior College.
- Dwayne Brown, leader of the South
Natchez football and baseball teams in the late 1970s. Now resides
in Lafayette working for the city.
- Olu Dara, musician & father of
rapper Nas.
- General John
Anthony Quitman - Mexican War hero, plantation owner, governor
of Mississippi, owner of Monmouth Plantation
.
- Two-time PBR world champion bull rider
Chris Shivers, who was born in Natchez
and currently resides in Jonesville, Louisiana
.
- Don José Vidal, Spanish
Governor of the Natchez District,
is buried in the Natchez City Cemetery.
- Joanna Fox Waddill, American
Civil War nurse known as the "Florence Nightengale of the
Confederacy."
- Les Whitt, director
of the municipal zoo in
Alexandria,
Louisiana
, and a musician who
sometimes played with B.B. King.
- Von Hutchins, NFL football player
for the Atlanta Falcons
- Jennifer Ogden, Emmy
Award-winning film and television producer, is a Natchez
native.
- Je'Kel Foster , basketball
player.
- Jason Bruce ,football player-Troy
University
See also
Notes
- Ginny Walker English, "Natchez Massacre 1729",
State Coordinator, Mississippi American Local History Network,
2000-2001, accessed 3 May 2009
- Natchez
Nation official web site
- Mahan, A.T., Capt. USN. The Navy in the Civil
War. Sampson Low, Marston, & Company, Ltd. London, UK.
1898.
- USS Essex (1861-1865), Department of the Navy --
Naval Historical Center.
- Magnolia Hall...shelling by the Union gunboat Essex
damaged the home. In fact, a cannonball landed in the
kitchen.
- Rosalie Beekman ... Natchez’s only casualty during
the war.
- A Brief History of Rosalie Mansion.
- Battle Report of Brig. Gen. Wirt Adams, C.S. Army,
commanding Cavalry Brigade, of operations against Natchez,
Mississippi on December 6-7, 1863
- Natchez, Mississippi. Tutor Gig
Encyclopedia
- National Fire Protection Association.
-
http://www.childrenslit.com/bookingservice/besser-kenneth.html
- ISBN 1299648517
- Barnes & Noble
References
- Cox, James L. The Mississippi Almanac. New York?:
Computer Search & Research, 2001. ISBN 0-9643545-2-7.
- Davis, Jack E. "Race Against Time: Culture and Separation in
Natchez Since 1930", Baton Rouge: Louisiana State University Press,
2001.
- Gandy, Thomas H. and Evelyn. The Mississippi Steamboat Era
in Historic Photographs: Natchez to New Orleans, 1870-1920.
New York: Dover Publications, 1987.
- Way, Frederick. Way's Packet Dictionary, 1848-1994:
Passenger Steamboats of the Mississippi River System Since the
Advent of Photography in Mid-Continent America. 2nd ed.
Athens, OH: Ohio University Press, 1994.
External links