Olympic National Park is
located in the U.S. state of Washington
, in the Olympic Peninsula
. The park can be divided into three basic
regions: the Pacific
coastline,
the Olympic
Mountains
, and the
temperate rainforest.
U.S. President Theodore Roosevelt originally created
Olympic National Monument in 1909 and after
Congress voted to authorize a redesignation to
National Park status, President
Franklin Roosevelt signed the
legislation in 1938. In 1976, Olympic National Park became an
International Biosphere
Reserve, and in 1981 it was designated a
World Heritage Site.
In 1988, almost all of
the Olympic Peninsula was designated as the Olympic
Wilderness
, further enhancing the protection of the
region.
Natural history
Coastline
The coastal portion of the park is a rugged, sandy beach along with
a strip of adjacent forest.It is long but just a few miles wide,
with native communities at the mouths of two rivers.
The Hoh River has the Hoh people
and at the town of La
Push
at the mouth of the Quileute River live the Quileute.
The beach has unbroken stretches of wilderness ranging from 10
to 20 miles (16 km to 32 km).While some beaches are
primarily sand, others are covered with heavy rock and very large
boulders.Bushy overgrowth, slippery footing, tides and misty rain
forest weather all hinder foot travel.(Times to hike should
typically be doubled.)The coastal strip is more readily accessible
than the interior of the Olympics; due to the difficult terrain,
very few backpackers venture beyond casual day-hiking
distances.

The most popular piece of the coastal strip is the Ozette
Loop.The Park Service runs a registration and reservation program
to control usage levels of this area.From the trailhead at Lake
Ozette, a leg of the trail is a boardwalk-enhanced path through
near primal coastal cedar
swamp.Arriving at the ocean, it is a 3-mile walk supplemented by
headland trails for high tides.This area has traditionally been favored by
the Makah from Neah Bay
.The
third 3-mile leg is enabled by a boardwalk which has enhanced the
loop's popularity.
There are thick groves of trees adjacent to the sand, which
results in chunks of timber from fallen trees on the beach.The
mostly unaltered Hoh River, toward the south end of the park,
discharges large amounts of naturally eroded timber and other
drift, which moves north, enriching the beaches.The removal of
driftwood - logs, dead-heads, tops and
root-wads from streams and beaches was a major domestication measure across North
America.Even today driftwood deposits form a commanding presence,
biologically as well as visually, giving a taste of the original
condition of the beach viewable to some extent in early
photos.Drift-material often comes from a considerable distance; the
Columbia River formerly contributed
huge amounts to the Northwest Pacific coasts.
The smaller coastal portion of the park is separated from the
larger, inland portion.President Franklin D. Roosevelt originally had supported
connecting them with a continuous strip of park land.
Glaciated mountains
Within the
center of Olympic National Park rise the Olympic
Mountains
whose sides
and ridgelines are topped with massive, ancient glaciers. The mountains themselves are
products of
accretionary wedge
uplifting related to the Juan De Fuca Plate
subduction zone. The geologic composition is
a curious
mélange of basaltic and
oceanic sedimentary rock.
The western half of the range is dominated by
the peak of Mount Olympus
, which rises to . Mount Olympus receives a
large amount of
snow, and consequently has the
greatest glaciation of any non-volcanic peak in the contiguous
United States outside of the North Cascades. It has several
glaciers, the largest of which is the Hoh glacier, nearly five
kilometers in length. Looking to the East, the range becomes much
drier due to the rain shadow of the western mountains. Here, there
are numerous high peaks and craggy ridges.
The tallest summit of
this area is Mount
Deception
, at
.
Temperate rainforest
The
western side of the park sports a temperate rain forest, including the
Hoh Rain
Forest
and Quinault Rain Forest
, the wettest area in the continental United States
(the island of Kauai
in the state
of Hawaii
gets more
rain). Because this is a temperate rainforest, as opposed to
a tropical one like the
Amazon
Rainforest in
South America, it is
dominated by dense
coniferous timber,
including
Sitka Spruce,
Western Hemlock,
Coast Douglas-fir and
Western redcedar and
mosses that coat the bark of these trees and even drip
down from their branches in green, moist tendrils.
Flora and fauna
Because the park sits on an isolated peninsula, with a high
mountain range dividing it from the land to the south, it developed
many unique plant and animal species (like the
Olympic Marmot) that can't be found anywhere
else in the world. The southwestern coastline of the Olympic
Peninsula is also the northernmost non-glaciated region on the
Pacific coast of North America, with the result that - aided by the
distance from peaks to the coast at the
Last Glacial Maximum being about twice
what it is today - it served as a refuge from which plants
colonized glaciated regions to the north.
It also provides habitat for many species (like the
Roosevelt elk) that are native only to the
Pacific Northwest coast. Because of this importance, scientists
have declared it to be a
biological
reserve, and study its unique species to better understand how
plants and animals evolve.
The park contains an estimated of
old-growth forests.
Human history
Prior to the influx of European settlers, Olympic's human
population consisted of
Native Americans, whose
use of the peninsula was thought to have consisted mainly of
fishing and hunting. However, recent reviews of the record, coupled
with systematic archaeological surveys of the mountains (Olympic
and other Northwest ranges) are pointing to much more extensive
tribal use of especially the subalpine meadows than seemed formerly
to be the case. Most if not all Pacific Northwest indigenous
cultures were more or less severely adversely affected by European
diseases (often decimated) and other factors, well before
ethnographers, business operations and settlers arrived in the
region, so what they saw and recorded was a much-reduced native
culture-base. Large numbers of cultural sites are now identified in
the Olympic mountains, and important artifacts have been
found.
When settlers began to appear, extractive industry in the
Pacific Northwest was on the rise,
particularly in regards to the harvesting of
timber, which began heavily in the late 1800s and
early 1900s. Public dissent against
logging
began to take hold in the 1920s, when people got their first
glimpses of the clear-cut hillsides. This period saw an explosion
of people's interest in the outdoors; with the growing use of the
automobile, people took to touring
previously remote places like the Olympic Peninsula.
The formal record of a proposal for a new national park on the
Olympic Peninsula begins with the expeditions of well-known figures
Lieutenant Joseph O'Neil and Judge James Wickersham, during the
1890s. These notables met in the Olympic wilderness while
exploring, and subsequently combined their political efforts to
have the area placed within some protected status. Following
unsuccessful efforts in the Washington State Legislature in the
early 1900s, President Theodore Roosevelt created Mount Olympus
National Monument in 1909, primarily to protect the subalpine
calving grounds and summer range of the
Roosevelt elk herds native to the
Olympics.
Public desire for preservation of some of the area grew until
President
Franklin D. Roosevelt declared ONP a national park
in 1938. Even after ONP was declared a park, though, illegal
logging continued in the park, and political battles continue to
this day over the incredibly valuable timber contained within its
boundaries. Logging continues on the Olympic Peninsula, but not
within the park. A book detailing the history of the fight for
ONP's timber is
Olympic Battleground: The Power Politics of
Timber Preservation by
Carsten
Lien.
Recreation
A short hike leads to Sol Duc Falls.
There are several roads in the park, but none penetrate far into
the interior. The park features a
network of hiking trails,
although the size and remoteness means that it will usually take
more than a weekend to get to the high country in the interior. The
sights of the rain forest, with plants run riot and dozens of hues
of green, are well worth the possibility of rain sometime during
the trip, although months of July, August and September frequently
have long dry spells.

High Mountain Cinquefoil
(
Potentilla flabellifolia) on Hurricane Hill
A nearly unique feature of ONP is the opportunity for backpacking
along the beach. The length of the coastline in the park is
sufficient for multi-day trips, with the entire day spent walking
along the beach. Although idyllic compared to toiling up a
mountainside (
Seven Lakes Basin is
a notable example), one must be aware of the tide; at the narrowest
parts of the beaches, high tide washes up to the cliffs behind,
blocking passage. There are also several promontories that must be
struggled over, using a combination of muddy steep trail and fixed
ropes.
During
winter, the popular viewpoint known as Hurricane Ridge
offers alpine and Nordic skiing
opportunities. The Hurricane Ridge Winter Sports Club
operates Hurricane Ridge Ski and Snowboard
Area
, a not for profit alpine ski area which offers ski
lessons, rentals, and inexpensive lift tickets. The small
alpine area is serviced by two
rope tows
and one
poma lift.
Backcountry skiers often make their way
down to the main Hurricane Ridge Road in order to
hitchhike their way back to the top. Rafting is
available on both the Elwha and Hoh Rivers.
Elwha Ecosystem Restoration Project
The
Elwha Ecosystem
Restoration Project is the second largest ecosystem
restoration project in the history of the National Park Service after the
Everglades
. It will consist of removing the Glines
Canyon Dam
and draining its reservoir, Lake Mills and removing the Elwha Dam
and its reservoir Lake Aldwell
from the Elwha
River. Upon removal, the park will revegetate the slopes
and river bottoms to prevent erosion and speed up ecological
recovery. The primary purpose of this project is to restore
anadromous stocks of
Pacific Salmon and
Steelhead to the
Elwha
River, which have been denied access to the upper of river
habitat for more than 95 years by these dams.
References
External links and literature
- Olympic
National Park
- University of Washington Libraries Digital
Collections – The Pacific Northwest Olympic Peninsula Community
Museum A web-based museum showcasing aspects of the rich
history and culture of Washington State's Olympic Peninsula
communities. Features cultural exhibits, curriculum packets and a
searchable archive of over 12,000 items that includes historical
photographs, audio recordings, videos, maps, diaries, reports and
other documents.
- The Evergreen Playground Online museum exhibit
that highlights the history of tourism on the Olympic Peninsula,
including the development of the Olympic Loop Highway (U.S. Highway
101) and the Olympic National Park.
- Tim McNulty (1996): Olympic National Park: A Natural
History Guide. ISBN 0395699800
- Travel feature on the Olympic National Park
The Independent, 25 July 2009, Mark
Harris.