
The Ox Team or the Old Oregon Trail
1852-1906 by Ezra Meeker
The
Oregon Trail was one of the main overland
migration routes on the North American
continent, leading from locations on the
Missouri
River
to the Oregon
Country. The eastern half of the trail was also used by
travelers on the
California Trail,
Bozeman Trail, and
Mormon Trail which used much of the same trail
before turning off to their separate destinations. To complete the
journey in one traveling season most travelers left in April to
May—as soon as grass was growing enough to support their teams and
the trails dried out. To meet the constant needs for water, grass,
and fuel for campfires the trail followed various rivers and
streams across the continent. The network of trails required a
minimum of road work to be made passable for wagons. People using
the trail traveled in wagons, pack trains, on horseback, on foot,
by raft, and by boat to establish new farms, lives, and businesses
in the Oregon Country.
This territory in the early 19th century was
subject to competing claims by the United States
and Britain
, who had
come to an arrangement usually described as "joint occupancy";
Britain's name for the region was the Columbia District, referring to the local
regional department of the Hudson's
Bay Company.
The four
to six month journey spanned over half the continent as the wagon
trail proceeded about west through territories and land that later
became six U.S. states: Missouri
, Kansas
, Nebraska
, Wyoming
, Idaho
, and
Oregon
. Extensions of the Oregon Trail were the main
arteries that fed settlers into six more states: Colorado
, Utah
, Nevada
, California
, Washington
, and Montana
.
Between 1841 and 1869 the Oregon Trail was used by settlers,
ranchers, farmers, miners, and business men migrating to the
Pacific Northwest. Once the
first transcontinental
railroad by the
Union Pacific and
the
Central Pacific was
completed in 1869, the use of this trail by long distance travelers
rapidly diminished as the railroad traffic replaced most need for
it.
By
1883 the Northern Pacific
Railroad had reached Portland, Oregon
, and most of the reason for the trail
disappeared. Roads were built over or near most of the trail
as local travelers traveled to cities originally established along
the Oregon Trail.
History

Oregon Trail reenactment at Scotts
Bluff
Lewis and Clark Expedition
In 1803, President
Thomas Jefferson
issued the following instructions to
Meriwether Lewis "The object of your
mission is to explore the Missouri river, & such principal
stream of it, as, by it's course & communication with the
waters of the Pacific Ocean, whether the Columbia, Oregon, Colorado
or and other river may offer the most direct & practicable
water communication across this continent, for the purposes of
commerce."
Although Lewis and William Clark found a path to the Pacific Ocean
, it was not until 1859 that a direct and
practicable route, the Mullan Road
, connected the Missouri River
to the Columbia
River.
The first land route across what is now the United States was
partially mapped by the Lewis and Clark Expedition between 1804 and
1806.
Lewis and Clark believed they had found a
practical overland route to the west coast; however the two passes
they found going through the Rocky
Mountains, Lemhi
Pass
and Lolo Pass
, turned out to be much too difficult for wagons to
pass through without considerable road work. On the return trip in
1806 they traveled from the Columbia River to the Snake River to the Clearwater River over Lolo pass
again and then overland up the Blackfoot River
and crossed the Continental Divide at
Lewis and Clark Pass and on to the head of the Missouri River
. This was ultimately a shorter and faster
route than the one they followed west. However, this route had the
disadvantage of being much too rough for wagons and controlled by
the
Blackfoot Indians who wanted no
trespassers crossing their territory that could trade
Iron Age goods or firearms to their enemies . Even
though Lewis and Clark had only traveled a narrow portion of the
upper Missouri River drainage and part of the Columbia River
drainage, these were considered the two major rivers draining most
of the
Rocky Mountains, and the
expedition confirmed that there was no "easy" route through the
northern Rocky Mountains as Jefferson had hoped.
Astorians
In 1810, fur trader, entrepreneur, and one of the wealthiest men in
the U.S.,
John Jacob Astor of the
American Fur Company outfitted
an expedition (known popularly as the Astor Expedition or
Astorians) under
Wilson Price
Hunt to find a possible overland supply route and trapping
territory for
fur trading posts.
Fearing
attack by the Blackfoot Indians, the overland expedition veered
south of Lewis and Clark's route into what is now Wyoming and in
the process passed across Union Pass
and into Jackson Hole
. From there they went over the Teton Range
via Teton
Pass
and then down to the Snake
River in Idaho
. Upon
arriving at the Snake River, they abandoned their horses, made
dugout canoes and attempted to use the river for transport. After a
few days travel they soon discovered that the steep canyons,
waterfalls and impassable rapids made travel by river impossible.
Too far
from their horses to retrieve them, they had to cache most of their
goods and walk the rest of the way to the Columbia River where they
made new boats and traveled to their newly established Fort Astoria
. The expedition demonstrated that much of
the route along the Snake River plain and across to the Columbia
was passable by pack train or wagons with minimal
improvements.
In early
1811, the supply ship Tonquin, left
supplies and men to establish Fort Astoria, then went on to
Puget
Sound
for a trading expedition. There it was
attacked and overwhelmed by Indians before being blown up—killing
all the crew and many Indians. American Fur Company partner
Robert Stuart then led a
small group of men back east to report to Astor. The group planned
to retrace the path followed by the overland expedition up the
Columbia and Snake rivers.
Fear of Indian attack near Union Pass in
Wyoming forced the group further south where they discovered
South
Pass
, a wide and easy pass over the Continental
Divide. The party continued east via the
Sweetwater River,
North Platte River (where they spent the
winter of 1812–1813) and
Platte River
to the Missouri River finally arriving in St. Louis in the spring
of 1813. The route they had used appeared to potentially be a
practical wagon route, requiring minimal improvements, scouted from
west to east, and Stuart's journals provided a meticulous account
of most of the route. But because of the
War
of 1812 and the lack of U.S. fur trading posts in the Oregon
Country, most of the route was forgotten for more than 10
years.
The North West Company and Hudson's Bay Company
In August 1811, three months after Fort Astor was established,
David Thompson and his
team of British North West Company explorers came floating down the
Columbia to Fort Astoria.
He had just completed an epic journey
through much of western Canada
and most of
the Columbia River drainage system. He was mapping the
country for possible fur trading posts.
Along the way he
camped at the confluence of the Columbia and Snake rivers and
posted a notice claiming the land for Britain and stating the
intention of the North West Company to build a fort on the site
(Fort Nez
Perces
was later established there). In 1812 the
North West Company, with pressure from the War of 1812, 'bought'
Astor's forts, supplies and furs on the Columbia and Snake River
and started establishing more of their own.
By 1821, when armed hostilities broke out with their Hudson Bay
rivals, the North West Company was forced (by the British
government) to merge with the Hudson's Bay Company. The Hudson's
Bay Company had nearly a complete monopoly on trading (and most
governing issues) in the Columbia District, or Oregon Country as it
was referred to by the Americans, and also in
Rupert's Land (western Canada). That year
British parliament passed a statute applying the laws of
Upper Canada to the district and giving the
Hudson's Bay Company power to enforce those laws.
From 1812 to 1840 the British had nearly complete control of the
Pacific Northwest and the western half of the Oregon Trail. In
theory, the
Treaty of Ghent ending
the War of 1812 restored the U.S. back to its possessions in Oregon
territory. "Joint occupation" of the region was formally
established by the
Anglo-American Convention of
1818. In actuality, the British tried to discourage any U.S.
trappers and traders from doing any significant trapping or trading
in the Pacific Northwest. American fur trappers, traders,
missionaries, and later settlers, all worked to break this
monopoly. They were eventually successful.
The
York Factory Express,
establishing another route to the Oregon territory, evolved from an
earlier express brigade used by the North West Company between Fort
Astoria and Fort
William
on Lake
Superior
.
By 1825
Hudson's Bay Company started using two brigades, each setting out
from opposite ends of the express route—one from Fort
Vancouver
on the
Columbia River and the other from York Factory
on Hudson
Bay
—in spring and passing each other in the middle of
the continent. This established a 'quick' (about 100 days
for ) way to resupply their forts and fur trading centers as well
as collecting the furs the posts had bought and transmitting
messages between Fort Vancouver and York Factory on Hudson Bay.
HBC's York Factory Express trade route, 1820s to 1840s.
Modern political boundaries shown.
The
Hudson's Bay Company built a new much larger Fort
Vancouver
in 1824
slightly upstream of Fort Astoria on the Washington side of the
Columbia River (they were hoping the Columbia would be the likely
Canada – U.S. border). The fort quickly became the center of
activity in the Pacific Northwest.
Every year ships would come from London
(via the
Pacific) to drop off supplies and trade goods in exchange for the
furs. It was the nexus for the fur trade on the Pacific
Coast; its influence reached from the
Rocky Mountains to the
Hawaiian Islands, and from
Russian Alaska into Mexican-controlled
California. At its pinnacle in about 1840, Fort Vancouver and its
Factor (manager) watched over 34 outposts, 24 ports, 6 ships, and
about 600 employees.
When emigration over the Oregon Trail began in earnest in about
1836, for many settlers the fort became the last stop on the Oregon
Trail where they could get supplies, aid and help before starting
their homestead. Fort Vancouver was the main re-supply point for
nearly all Oregon trail travelers until U.S. towns could be
established.
Fort Colville
was established in 1825 on the Columbia river near
Kettle
Falls
as a good site to collect furs and control the
upper Columbia River fur trade. Fort
Nisqually
was built
near the present town of DuPont, Washington
and was the first Hudson's Bay Company fort on
Puget Sound. Fort Victoria
was erected in 1843 and became the headquarters of
operations in British Columbia, eventually growing into modern day
Victoria
, the capital city of British Columbia.
By 1840
The Hudson's Bay Company had three forts: Fort Hall
(purchased from Nathaniel Jarvis Wyeth in 1837),
Fort Boise and old Fort Walla Walla
(also call Fort Nez Perce) on the western end of
the Oregon Trail route as well as Fort Vancouver near its terminus
in the Willamette Valley.
With minor exceptions they all gave substantial and often
desperately needed aid to the early Oregon Trail pioneers.
When the fur trade slowed in 1840 because of fashion changes in
men's hats, the value of the Pacific Northwest to the British was
seriously diminished. Canada had very few potential settlers who
were willing to move over 2,500 miles to the Pacific Northwest,
although several hundred ex-trappers, British and American, and
their families did start settling in Oregon, Washington and
California. They also used most of the York Express route through
northern Canada.
In 1841 James Sinclair, on orders from
Sir George Simpson,
guided nearly 200 settlers from the Red River Settlement (located at the
junction of the Assiniboine River
and Red
River
near present Winnipeg
, Canada) [7874] into the Oregon territory. This
attempt at settlement mostly failed when most of the families
joined the settlers in the Willamette Valley, with their promise of
free land and HBC-free government.

The Oregon Country/Columbia
District
stretched from 42N to 54 40'N.The most heavily disputed portion is
highlighted
In 1846 the
Oregon Treaty ending the
Oregon boundary dispute was
signed with Britain. The British lost the land north of the
Columbia River they had so long controlled. The new
Canada – United States
border was established much further north at the
49th parallel.
The treaty did grant
Hudson's Bay Company navigation rights on the Columbia River for
supplying their fur posts, clear titles to their trading post
properties allowing them to be sold later if they wanted, and left
the British with good anchorages at Vancouver and Victoria,
British Columbia
. It gave the United States what it mostly
wanted, a 'reasonable' boundary and a good anchorage on the West
Coast in Puget Sound. While there were almost no United States
settlers in the future state of Washington in 1846, the United
States had already demonstrated it could induce thousands of
settlers to go to the Oregon Territory; and it would be only a
short time before they would vastly outnumber the few hundred
Hudson's Bay Company employees and retirees living in
Washington.
By overland travel, American missionaries and early settlers
(initially mostly ex-trappers) started showing up in Oregon around
1824. Although officially the Hudson's Bay Company discouraged
settlement because it interfered with their lucrative fur trade,
their
Chief Factor at Fort Vancouver,
Dr.
John McLoughlin, gave very
substantial help including employment until they could get
established. By 1843, when 700–1,000 settlers arrived, the American
settlers greatly outnumbered the nominally British settlers in
Oregon. McLoughlin, despite working for the British-based Hudson's
Bay Company, gave extensive help in the form of loans, medical
care, shelter, clothing, food, supplies and seed even to United
States emigrants. These new emigrants often arrived in Oregon
tired, worn out, nearly penniless, with insufficient food or
supplies just as winter was coming on.
McLoughlin would
later be hailed as the Father of Oregon
.
Great American Desert
Reports
from expeditions in 1806 by Lieutenant Zebulon Pike and in 1819 by Major Stephen Long described the Great Plains
as "unfit for human habitation" and as "The
Great American Desert".
These descriptions were mainly based on the relative lack of timber
and surface water. The images of sandy wastelands conjured up by
terms like "desert" were tempered by the many reports of vast herds
of millions of
Plains Bison that
somehow managed to live in this "desert". In the 1840s, the Great
Plains appeared to be unattractive for settlement and were illegal
for homesteading until well after 1846—initially it was set aside
by the U.S. government for Indian settlements. The next available
land for general settlement, Oregon, appeared to be free for the
taking and had fertile lands, disease free climate (
yellow fever and
malaria
were prevalent in much of the Missouri and
Mississippi River drainage then) extensive
uncut, unclaimed forests, big rivers, and potential seaports and
only a few nominally British settlers.
Fur traders, trappers and explorers
The route of the Oregon Trail began to be worked out as early as
1805 by explorers, trappers and
fur
traders. Fur trappers, often working for fur traders, followed
nearly all possible streams looking for beaver in the 25+ years
(1812–1840) the fur trade was active. Fur traders like
Manuel Lisa,
Robert
Stuart,
William Henry
Ashley,
Jedediah Smith,
William Sublette,
Andrew Henry,
Thomas Fitzpatrick,
Kit Carson,
Jim
Bridger,
Peter Skene Ogden,
David Thompson,
James Douglas,
Donald Mackenzie,
Alexander Ross,
James Sinclair and other
mountain men. Besides discovering and
naming many of the rivers and mountains in the
Intermountain West and Pacific Northwest
they often kept diaries of their travels and were available as
guides and consultants when the trail started to become open for
general travel. The fur trade business ended just as the Oregon
trail business seriously began around 1840.

The exploration of the West by
Jedediah Smith
In fall of 1823,
Jedediah Smith and
Thomas Fitzpatrick led
their trapping crew south from the
Yellowstone River to the Sweetwater River.
They were looking for a safe location to spend the winter. Smith
reasoned since the Sweetwater flowed east it must eventually run
into the Missouri River. Trying to transport their extensive fur
collection down the Sweetwater, they found after a near disastrous
canoe crash that it was too swift and rough for water passage.
On July
4, 1824, they cached their furs under a dome of rock they named
Independence
Rock
and started their long trek to the Missouri
River. Upon arriving back in a settled area they bought pack
horses (on credit) and retrieved their furs. They had re-discovered
the route that Robert Stuart had taken in 1813—eleven years before.
Thomas Fitzpatrick was often hired as a guide when the fur trade
dwindled in 1840.

Map of the Green River watershed
The trail began to be regularly used by fur traders, missionaries,
and a few general travelers starting in 1825. In 1825, the first
fur trader rendezvous
occurred on the Henry's Fork of the
Green River. The supplies were brought in
by a large party using pack trains which were then used to haul out
the fur bales they had traded for. They normally used the north
side of the Platte River—the same route used 20 years later by the
Mormon Trail. For the next 15 years the
rendezvous was an annual event moving to different locations. It
allowed the fur traders to supply the needs of the trappers and
their Indian allies without having the expense of building or
maintaining a fort or wintering over in the cold Rockies.
In 1830,
William Sublette brought the first
wagons carrying his trading goods up the Platte, North Platte, and
Sweetwater rivers before crossing over South Pass
to a fur trade rendezvous on the Green River near
the future town of Big Piney, Wyoming
. He had a crew that dug out the gullies and
cleared the brush where needed; thus establishing that the eastern
part of most of the Oregon Trail was passable by wagons.
Fur traders tried to use the Platte River, the main route of the
eastern Oregon Trail, for transport but soon gave up in frustration
as its muddy waters were too shallow, crooked and unpredictable to
use for water transport. The Platte proved to be unnavigable. The
Platte River valley, however became an easy roadway for wagons,
with its nearly flat plain heading almost due west.
There were several U.S. government sponsored explorers who explored
part of the Oregon Trail and wrote extensively about their
explorations. Captain
Benjamin
Bonneville on his expedition of 1832 explored much of the
Oregon trail and brought wagons up the Platte, North Platte,
Sweetwater route across South Pass to the Green River in Wyoming.
In addition he explored most of Idaho and the Oregon Trail to the
Columbia. He had the account of his explorations in the west
published by
Washington Irving in
1838.).
John C. Fremont and his guide
Kit Carson led three expeditions from 1842 to
1846 on parts of the Oregon Trail. His explorations were written by
him and his wife
Jessie Benton
Fremont and were widely published. Most of these explorations
were over routes that were already known by a few mountain men; but
their government sponsored exploration and subsequent writings made
the routes much more widely known.
Missionaries
In 1834,
the Dalles Methodist Mission was
founded by Reverend Jason Lee
just east of Mount
Hood
on the Columbia River. In 1836,
Henry H. Spalding
and Marcus Whitman traveled west to
establish the Whitman Mission
near modern day Walla Walla, Washington
. The party included the wives of the two
men,
Narcissa Whitman and
Eliza Hart Spalding, who became the
first European-American women to cross the Rocky Mountains. En
route, the party accompanied American fur traders going to the 1836
rendezvous on the Green River in Wyoming and then joined Hudson's
Bay Company fur traders traveling west to Fort Walla Walla.
The group
was the first to travel in wagons all the way to Fort Hall, Idaho
, where the wagons were abandoned at the urging of
their guides. They used pack animals for the rest of the
trip to Fort Walla Walla and then floated by boat to Fort Vancouver
to get supplies before returning to start their missions. Other
missionaries, mostly husband and wife teams using wagon and pack
trains, established missions in the Willamette Valley, as well as
various locations in the future states of Washington, Oregon, and
Idaho. The missionaries' example as well as their reports and
speeches back home in the United States made the possibilities of
the Oregon country much more widely known.
Oregon Country
In 1843, settlers of the
Willamette
Valley drafted
Organic Laws
of Oregon organizing land claims within the Oregon Country.
Married couples were granted at no cost (except for the requirement
to work and improve the land) up to , and unmarried settlers could
claim . As the group was a provisional government with no
authority, these claims were not valid under United States or
British law, but they were eventually honored by the United States
in the
Donation Land Act in 1850.
The Donation Land Act provided for married settlers to be granted
and unmarried settlers . Following the expiration of the act in
1854 the land was no longer free but cost $1.25 per acre
($3.09/hectare) with a limit of —the same as most other unimproved
government land.
Early emigrants
On May 1,
1839, a group of eighteen men from Peoria, Illinois
, set out with the intention to colonize the Oregon
country on behalf of the United States of America and drive out the
Hudson's Bay Company operating there. The men of the
Peoria Party were among the first
pioneers to traverse most of the Oregon Trail. The men were
initially led by
Thomas J.
Farnham and called themselves the
Oregon Dragoons. They carried a
large flag emblazoned with their motto "
OREGON OR THE
GRAVE". Although the group split up near
Bents Fort on the
South
Platte and Farnham was deposed as a leader, nine of their
members eventually did reach Oregon.
In September 1840,
Robert Newell,
Joseph L. Meek, and their families reached Fort Walla
Walla with three wagons that they had driven from Fort Hall. Their
wagons were the first to reach the Columbia River over land, and
they opened the final leg of Oregon Trail to wagon traffic.
In 1841 the
Bartleson-Bidwell
Party was the first emigrant group credited with using the
Oregon Trail to emigrate west.
The group set out for California, but about
half the party left the original group at Soda
Springs, Idaho
, and proceeded to the Willamette Valley in
Oregon—leaving their wagons at Fort Hall.
On May 16, 1842, the second organized
wagon
train set out from
Elm Grove,
Missouri, with more than 100 pioneers. The party was led by
Elijah White. The group broke up after
passing Fort Hall with most of the single men hurrying ahead and
the families following later.
Great Migration of 1843
In what was dubbed "The Great Migration of 1843" or the "Wagon
Train of 1843", an estimated 700 to 1,000 emigrants left for
Oregon. They were led initially by John Gantt, a former U.S. Army
Captain and fur trader who was contracted to guide the train to
Fort Hall for $1 per person. The winter before, Marcus Whitman had
made a brutal mid-winter trip from Oregon to St. Louis to appeal a
decision by his Mission backers to abandon several of the Oregon
missions. He joined the wagon train at the Platte River for the
return trip. When the pioneers were told at Fort Hall by agents
from the Hudson's Bay Company that they should abandon their wagons
there and use pack animals the rest of the way, Whitman disagreed
and volunteered to lead the wagons the rest of the way to Oregon.
He believed the trains were large enough they could build whatever
road improvements they needed to make the trip with their wagons.
The
biggest obstacle they faced was in the Blue
Mountains
of Oregon where they had to cut and clear a trail
through heavy timber. Nearly all of the settlers in the 1843
wagon trains arrived in the Willamette Valley by early October.
A
passable wagon trail now existed from the Missouri River to
The Dalles,
Oregon
. In 1846, the Barlow Road
was completed around Mount Hood
providing a completely passable wagon trail from
the Missouri river to the Willamette
Valley—about 2,000 miles.
Mormon emigration
Following
persecution and mob action in Missouri
, Illinois
, and other states, and the martyrdom of their
prophet Joseph Smith in 1844, Mormon leader Brigham
Young was chosen by the leaders of the Latter Day Saints (LDS) church to lead the
LDS settlers west. He chose to lead his people to the
Salt Lake Valley in present day
Utah.
In
1847 Young led a small, especially picked fast-moving group of men
and women from their Winter
Quarters encampments near Omaha, Nebraska
, and their approximately 50 temporary settlements
on the Missouri
River
in Iowa
including
Council
Bluffs
, Iowa, (then called Kanesville).
About
2,200 LDS pioneers went that first year as they filtered in from
Mississippi
, Colorado, California, and several other
states. The initial pioneers were charged with establishing
farms, growing crops, building fences and herds, and establishing
preliminary settlements to feed and support the many thousands of
immigrants expected in the coming years.
The Mormons after
ferrying across the Missouri River and establishing wagon trains
near what became Omaha,
Nebraska
, followed
the northern bank of the Platte River in Nebraska
to Fort
Laramie
in present day Wyoming. Initially they
started out in 1848 with trains of several thousand emigrants which
were rapidly split into smaller groups to be more easily
accommodated at the limited springs and good camping places on the
trail. Organized as a complete evacuation from their previous
homes, farms, and cities in Illinois, Missouri, and Iowa, this
group consisted of entire families with nobody left behind. The
much larger presence of women and children meant the wagon trains
did not try to cover as much ground in a single day as Oregon and
California bound emigrants did—typically taking about 100 days to
cover the trip to Salt Lake City. The Oregon and California
emigrants typically averaged about per day.
In Wyoming they
followed the main Oregon/California/Mormon Trail through Wyoming to
Fort
Bridger
, where they split from the main trail and followed
and improved the crude path established by the ill-fated Donner-Reed party
of 1846 into Utah and the Salt Lake
Valley.
Between 1847 and 1860 over 43,000 LDS settlers and tens of
thousands of travelers on the
California Trail and Oregon Trail followed
Young to Utah.
After 1848, the travelers headed to
California or Oregon resupplied at the Salt Lake Valley, then went
back over the Salt Lake Cutoff
rejoining the trail near the future Idaho-Utah border at the
City of
Rocks
Idaho.
To enable many poor Mormons to get to Utah, starting in 1855 many
of the LDS travelers made the trek with hand built
handcart and many fewer wagons.
Guided by experienced guides, handcarts—pulled and pushed by two to
four people—were as fast as the oxen-pulled wagons and allowed the
handcart pioneers to bring their individual 100 to 75 pounds
allotment of possessions plus some food, bedding, and tents to
Utah. Accompanying wagons carried most of the additional food and
supplies needed. Arriving in Utah the handcart pioneers were given
or found jobs and accommodations by individual LDS families for the
winter till they could get established. About 3,000 out of over
60,000 Mormon pioneers came across with handcarts.
Along the Mormon Trail, the Mormon pioneers established a number of
ferries and made trail improvements to help later travelers and
earn much needed money.
One of the better known ferries was the
Mormon Ferry across the North Platte near the future site of
Fort
Caspar
in Wyoming which operated between 1848 and 1852 and
the Green
River
ferry near Fort Bridger
which operated from 1847 to 1856. The
ferries were free for Mormon settlers while all others were charged
a toll of from $3.00 to $8.00—just as all other ferries did.
California Gold Rush
In January 1848, gold was discovered in California precipitating
the
California Gold Rush. It is
estimated that about two-thirds of the male population in Oregon
went to California in 1848 to cash in on the early gold
discoveries. To get there, they helped build the Lassen Branch of
the
Applegate-Lassen Trail by
cutting a wagon road through extensive forests. Many returned with
significant gold which helped jump-start the Oregon economy. Over
the next decade, gold seekers from the
Midwestern United States and East Coast|East Coast
of the United States]] started rushing overland and dramatically
increased traffic on the Oregon and California Trails. The
"forty-niners" often chose speed over safety and opted to use
shortcuts such as the
Sublette-Greenwood
Cutoff in Wyoming which reduced travel time by almost seven
days but spanned nearly of desert without water, grass, or material
for fires. 1849 was also the first year of large scale
cholera epidemics in the United States and the rest
of the world, and thousands are thought to have died along the
trail on their way to California—most buried in unmarked graves in
Kansas and Nebraska. The 1850 census showed this rush was
overwhelmingly male: the ratio of women to men in California over
16 years was about 1:18. After 1849 the rush continued for several
years as the California miners continued to find about $50,000,000
worth of gold per year at $21 per ounce.
Later emigration and uses of the trail
Overall it is estimated that over 400,000 pioneers used the Oregon
Trail and its three primary off-shoots, the
California,
Bozeman, and
Mormon
Trails.
The trail was still in use during the
Civil War, but traffic declined
after 1855 when the Panama Railroad
across the Isthmus of
Panama was completed. Paddle wheel steamships and sailing
ships, often heavily subsidized to carry the mail, provided rapid
transport to and from the east coast and New Orleans,
Louisiana
, to and from Panama
to ports
in California and Oregon.
Over the years many ferries were established to help get across the
many rivers on the path of the Oregon Trail.
Multiple ferries were
established on the: Missouri River
, Kansas
River
, Little Blue
River, Elkhorn River, Loup River, Platte
River, South Platte River,
North Platte River, Laramie River, Green River
, Bear River, two
crossings of the Snake River, John Day River, Deschutes River, Columbia River, as well as many other smaller
streams. During peak immigration periods several ferries on
any given river often competed for pioneer dollars. These ferries
significantly increased speed and safety for Oregon Trail
travelers. They increased the cost of traveling the trail by
roughly $30.00 per wagon but increased the speed of the transit
from about 160–170 days in 1843 to 120–140 days in 1860. The many
drowning deaths that occurred on the early trail also went
significantly down as dangerous and difficult river crossings were
made much safer.
After
1858 most California travelers after traveling to Fort Bridger took
the Mormon Trail to Salt Lake City and then the and over two weeks
shorter Central Overland
Route from Salt Lake City and across central Nevada
to Carson City,
Nevada
. This route was discovered, surveyed,
and developed by a team of U.S. Army workers led by Captain
James H. Simpson of the
U. S. Corp of Topographical
Engineers and went from individual streams and springs across
the
Great Basin desert in central Utah
and Nevada. Initially the springs and trail were maintained by the
army as a supply route to their
Camp
Floyd in Utah which was set up after the
Utah War. By 1860 Camp Floyd was abandoned as the
army left to fight the Civil War.
In
1860–1861 the Pony Express, employing
riders traveling on horseback day and night and stations about
every ten miles to supply new horses, was established from St. Joseph, Missouri, to Sacramento,
California
. The Pony Express built many of their
eastern stations along the Oregon/California/Mormon/Bozeman trails
and many of their western stations along the Central Route across
Utah and Nevada. They delivered mail in roughly ten days from the
midwest to California. Starting in 1860, after war closed the
southern stage routes to California, several stage lines were set
up carrying mail and passengers that traversed much of the route of
the original Oregon Trail to Fort Bridger and from there over the
Central Overland Route to California. By traveling day and night
with many stations and changes of teams (and extensive mail
subsidies) these stages could get passengers and mail from the
midwest to California in about 25 days.
The
First Transcontinental
Telegraph completed in October 1861 used much of the Central
Overland Route from Carson City, Nevada
to Salt Lake City. From Salt Lake City the
telegraph line followed much of the Mormon/California/Oregon
trail(s) to Omaha Nebraska. After the First Transcontinental
Railroad was completed in 1869, the telegraph lines along the
railroad tracks became the main line since the required relay
stations and lines were much easier to supply and maintain along
the railroad. The telegraph lines that diverged from the railroad
lines were largely abandoned.
As the years passed the Oregon Trail became a well known corridor
from the Missouri River to the Columbia river. Offshoots of the
trail also continued to grow as gold and silver discoveries,
farming, lumbering, ranching, business opportunities, etc. resulted
in much more traffic to many areas. Traffic became more two
directional as increasingly traffic went both ways to towns being
established along or at the ends of the trail. By 1870 the
population in the several states served by the Oregon Trail and its
offshoots increased by about 350,000 over their 1860 census levels.
With the exception of most of the 180,000 population increase in
California, most of these people living away from the coast
traveled over parts of the Oregon trail and its many extensions and
cutoffs to get to their new residences.
Even before the famous
cattle drives after the
Civil War, the trail was being used to drive herds of thousands of
horses, sheep, cattle, and goats. According to studies by trail
historian John Unruh the livestock may have been as plentiful or
more plentiful than the immigrants in many years. In 1852 there was
even records of a 1,500 turkey drive from Illinois to California
The main reason for this livestock traffic was the large cost
discrepancy between livestock in the midwest and at the end of the
trail in California, Oregon, or Montana. They could often be bought
in the midwest for about 1/3 to 1/10th what they would fetch at the
end of the trail. Large losses could occur and the drovers would
still make significant profit. As the emigrant travel on the trail
declined significant herds of livestock still used large segments
of it to get to or from markets.
Trail decline
The First Transcontinental Railroad was completed in 1869 providing
faster, safer, and usually cheaper travel east and west (7 days
about $65 (economy)), Some emigrants continued to use the trail
well into the 1890s, and modern highways and railroads eventually
paralleled large portions of the trail, including
U.S. Highway
26,
Interstate 84 in Oregon
and Idaho and
Interstate 80 in
Nebraska. Contemporary interest in the overland trek has prompted
the states and federal government to preserve landmarks on the
trail including wagon ruts, buildings, and "registers" where
emigrants carved their names. Throughout the 20th century there
have been a number of re-enactments of the trek with participants
wearing period garments and traveling by wagon.
Routes
As the trail developed it became marked by numerous cutoffs and
shortcuts from Missouri to Oregon. The basic route follows river
valleys as grass and water were absolutely necessary.
While the
first few parties organized and departed from Elm Grove, the Oregon
Trail's primary starting point was Independence, Missouri
, or Westport, Kansas
, on the Missouri River. Later, several feeder
trails led across Kansas, and some towns became starting points,
including Weston,
Missouri
, Fort Leavenworth, Kansas
, Atchison, Kansas
, St. Joseph,
Missouri, and Omaha,
Nebraska
.
The
Oregon Trail's nominal termination point was Oregon
City
, at the time the proposed capital of the
Oregon
Territory
. However, many settlers branched off or
stopped short of this goal and settled at convenient or promising
locations along the trail. Commerce with pioneers going further
west greatly assisted these early settlements in getting
established and launched local micro-economies critical to these
settlements' prosperity.
At dangerous or difficult river crossings, ferrys or toll bridges
were set up and "bad" places on the trail were either repaired or
by-passed. Several toll roads were constructed. Gradually the trail
became easier with the average trip (as recorded in numerous
diaries) dropping from about 160 days in 1849 to 140 days 10 years
later.
Numerous
other trails followed the Oregon Trail for much of its length,
including the Mormon Trail from Illinois
to Utah
; the
California Trail to the gold fields of California; and the Bozeman Trail to Montana
. Because it was more a network of trails
more than a single trail there were numerous variations with other
trails eventually established on both sides of the Platte, North
Platte, Snake, and Columbia rivers. With literally thousands of
people and thousands of livestock traveling in a fairly small time
slot the travelers had to spread out to find clean water, wood,
good campsites, and grass. The dust kicked up by the many travelers
was a constant complaint, and where the terrain would allow it
there may be between 20 to 50 wagons traveling abreast.
Remnants of the trail in Kansas, Nebraska, Wyoming, Idaho, and
Oregon have been listed on the
National Register of
Historic Places, and the entire trail is a designated
National Historic Trail (listed as
the
Oregon National Historic Trail).
Kansas
Starting
initially in Independence
/Kansas City
in Missouri, the initial trail follows the Santa Fe Trail into Kansas south of the
Wakarusa River. After crossing
The
Hill
at Lawrence
, it crosses the Kansas River
by ferry or boats near Topeka, Kansas
, and angles to Nebraska
paralleling the Little
Blue River until reaching the south side of the Platte River.
Nebraska

Chimney Rock, Nebraska
Those emigrants on the eastern side of the
Missouri River
used ferries and steamboats to cross over from
Kansas into Nebraska.
Several towns in Nebraska were used as
jumping off places with Omaha, Nebraska
, eventually becoming a favorite after about
1855. The main branch of the trails starts at one of several
towns on the Missouri River and then crosses Kansas and/or Nebraska
to join up at the
Platte River near new
Fort Kearny (moved from the Missouri to
the Platte River in 1848 by U.S. Army). The fort is about from the
Missouri River, and the trail and its many offshoots nearly all
converge close to Fort Kearny. The fort was the first chance on the
trail to buy emergency supplies, do repairs, get medical aid, or
mail a letter. Those on the north side could usually wade the
shallow Platte if they really needed to visit the fort. The Platte
was too shallow, crooked, muddy, and unpredictable for even a canoe
to travel very far on, but its valley provided an easily passable
wagon corridor going almost due west with access to water, grass,
buffalo, and
buffalo chips for building
fires. There were trails on both sides of the muddy river, which is
about wide and to deep. Up to about 1870 travelers encountered
hundreds of thousands of
bison migrating
through Nebraska on both sides of the Platte River, and most
travelers killed several for fresh meat and to build up their
supplies of dried
jerky for the rest of
the journey. Where it was not tromped down by the buffalo or the
travelers, the prairie grass in many places was several feet high
with only the hat of a traveler on horseback showing as they passed
through the prairie grass. In most years the Indians fired the dry
grass on the prairie every fall so the only trees or bushes were on
islands in the Platte river. Travelers gathered and ignited dried
buffalo chips to cook their meals. These burned fast in a breeze,
and it could take two or more bushels of chips to get through one
meal.
Those traveling south of the Platte crossed
the South Platte fork at one of about
three ferries (in dry years it could be forded without a ferry)
before continuing up the North Platte
River into present-day Wyoming
heading to
Fort
Laramie
. Before 1852 those on the north side of the
Platte crossed the North Platte to the south side at Fort Laramie.
After
1852 they used Child's Cutoff to stay on the north side to about
the present day town of Casper, Wyoming
, where they crossed over to the south
side.
Notable
landmarks in Nebraska include Courthouse and Jail Rocks
, Chimney Rock
, Scotts Bluff
, and Ash Hollow State Historical Park
Wyoming
The Oregon Trail follows the
North
Platte River out of Nebraska into Wyoming.
The next major stop
was Fort Laramie
at the junction of the Laramie River and the North Platte
River. Fort Laramie was a fur trading outpost formally named
Fort John that was later purchased by the U.S. Army to protect
travelers on the trails.
Fort Laramie was the end of most
cholera
outbreaks which killed thousands along the lower Platte from 1849
to 1855. Spread by cholera germs in fecal contaminated water,
cholera caused massive diarrhea, leading to massive dehydration and
death. In those days its cause and cure were unknown, and it was
often fatal. It is believed that the swifter flowing rivers in
Wyoming helped prevent the germs from spreading.

Independence Rock
up the North Platte and crossing many small swift flowing creeks
the trail traverses over to the
Sweetwater River which would have
to be crossed up to nine times before the trail leeaves the
Sweetwater valley and crosses over the
Continental Divide at
South Pass
. From South Pass the trail follows Big Sandy Creek
till it crosses the
Green
River—three to five ferries were in use there during peak
travel periods. The swift and treacherous Green River was usually
at high water in July and August, and it was a dangerous crossing.
The main
trail continues on in an approximate southwest direction until it
encounters Blacks Fork of the Green
River and Fort
Bridger
. The Mormon Trail continues southwest to
Salt Lake
City, Utah
, while the main trail turns almost due north before
turning northwest and following the Little Muddy Creek valley over
the Bear River Divide to the Bear
River valley.
Over time, two major heavily used cutoffs were established. The
Sublette-Greenwood Cutoff was established in 1844 and cut about off
the main route.
It leeaves the main trail near about South
Pass and heads almost due west crossing about of desert before
reaching the Green River near the present town of La
Barge
and then crossing a mountain range to connect with
the main trail near Cokeville
in the Bear River valley. The Lander Road,
formally the Fort Kearney, South Pass, and Honey Lake Wagon Road,
was established and built by government contractors in 1858.
It
departs the main trail at Burnt Ranch, crosses the Continental
Divide north of South Pass and crosses the Green River near the
present town of Big Piney
finally passing over Thompson Pass in the Salt
River Mountains and descending into Star
Valley the present town of Smoot
.
The road
continues through Star Valley and turns near the present town of
Auburn,
Wyoming
, and enters into Idaho proceeding to meet the main
trail at Fort Hall.
Numerous
landmarks are located along the trail in Wyoming including Independence
Rock
, Ayres Natural Bridge
and Register Cliff
.
Utah
In 1847,
Brigham Young and the Mormon pioneers departed from the Oregon
Trail at Fort Bridger and followed a trail recommended by Lansford
Hastings to Salt Lake
City, Utah
. The trail was one of two that had been
established the previous year by emigrants bound for California.
The Mormons chose the same route as the Donner-Reed party through
the Wasatch Mountains.
In 1848, the Salt Lake Cutoff was established by Sam
Hensley, providing a path north from Salt Lake City and rejoining
the Oregon and California Trails near the City of Rocks
at the Utah/Idaho border. Hensley originally
followed Hazen Kimball and James Pollock's wagon tracks, then
veered off to the west after crossing the
Malad River.Many later emigrants used Salt Lake
City as an intermediate stop for fresh fruits and vegetables,
supplies, fresh livestock and repairs. The overall distance to
California or Oregon was approximately the same whether one
"detoured" to Salt Lake City or not, although in his diary,
Henry W. Bigler wrote the cutoff would save about 8
or 10 days travel.
Idaho
The main Oregon and California Trail went almost due north from
Fort Bridger to the Little Muddy Creek where it passed over the
Bear River Mountains to the
Bear
River valley which it followed northwest into the Thomas Fork
area where the trail crossed over the present day Wyoming line into
Idaho. In the Eastern Sheep Creek Hills on the Thomas Fork valley
the emigrants encountered Big Hill. Big Hill had a tough ascent
often requiring doubling up of teams and a very steep and dangerous
descent. In 1852 Eliza Ann McAuley found and with help developed
the
McAuley Cutoff which bypassed much of the
difficult climb and descent of Big Hill.
About on they passed
present day Montpelier,
Idaho
which is now the site of a The National
Oregon-California Trail Center. The trail follows the
Bear River northwest to present day Soda Springs, Idaho
. The soda springs here were a favorite
attraction of the pioneers who marveled at the carbonated water and
chugging steamboat springs. Many stopped and did their laundry in
the hot water as there was usually plenty of good grass and water.
Just west
of Soda Springs the Bear River turns southwest and the main trail
turns northwest to follow the Portneuf River
valley to Fort Hall
. Fort Hall, on the
Snake River, was an old fur trading post
established in 1834 and owned by the British Hudson's Bay Company.
Nearly all travelers were given some aid and supplies if they were
available and needed. Mosquitoes were constant pests and travelers
often mention their animals covered with blood the mosquitoes. The
route from Fort Bridger to Fort Hall is about taking nine to twelve
days.
At Soda
Springs was one branch of Lander's Road
(established and built with government contractors in 1858) which
had gone west from near South Pass, over the Salt River Mountains
and down Star Valley before turning west near present day Auburn,
Wyoming
and entering Idaho. From there it proceeded
northwest into Idaho up Stump Creek canyon for about ten miles
(16 km) before one branch turned almost 90 degrees and
proceeding southwest to Soda Springs. Another branch headed almost
due west past Gray’s Lake to rejoin the main trail about west of
Fort Hall.
On the main trail about west of Soda Springs
Hudspeth's
Cutoff (est. 1849 and used mostly by California trail
users) took off from the main trail heading almost due west and
by-passed Fort Hall.
It rejoined the California Trail at Cassia Creek near the
City of
Rocks
(now a National Reserve and Idaho State
Park). Hudspeth's Cutoff had five mountain ranges to cross
and took about the same amount of time as the main route to Fort
Hall but many took it thinking it was shorter. Its main advantage
was that it did spread out the traffic on busy years and made more
grass available. (For Oregon-California trail map up to junction in
Idaho see:
Oregon National Historic Trail Map NPS)
West of
Fort Hall the main trail traveled about on the south side of the
Snake River southwest past American Falls, Massacre
Rocks
, Register Rock and Coldwater Hill near present
day Pocatello,
Idaho
. Near the junction of the Raft River
and Snake River the
California Trail diverged from the Oregon Trail at another Parting
of the Ways junction by leaving the Snake River and following the
small and short Raft
River
about southwest past present day Almo, Idaho
. This trail then passed through the City of Rocks
and over Granite Pass where it went southwest along
Goose Creek, Little Goose Creek, and Rock Spring Creek.
It went
about through Thousand
Springs Valley, West Brush Creek, Willow Creek, before arriving
at the Humboldt River in northeastern
Nevada near present day Wells, Nevada
. The California Trail proceeded west down
the Humboldt before reaching and crossing the
Sierra Nevadas.
There were only a few places where the Snake River has not buried
itself deep in a canyon. There were fewer yet where the river
slowed down enough to make a crossing reasonably possible. Two of
these possible fords were near Fort Hall where the travelers on the
Oregon Trail North Side Alternate (established
about 1852) and
Goodale’s Cutoff (established
1862) crossed the Snake to travel on the north side. Nathaniel
Wyeth, the original founder of Fort Hall in 1834, writes in his
diary that they found a ford across the Snake River southwest of
where he founded Fort Hall. Another possible crossing was a few
miles upstream of Salmon Falls where some intrepid travelers
floated their wagons and swam their stock across to join the north
side trail. Some lost their wagons and teams over the falls. The
trails on the north side joined the trail from
Three Island
Crossing about west of Glenns Ferry on the north side of
the Snake River. (For map of North Side Alternate see:)
Goodale's Cutoff, established in 1862 on the north
side of the Snake River, formed a spur of the Oregon Trail. This
cutoff had been used as a pack trail by Indians and fur traders for
many years, and emigrant wagons had traversed parts of the eastern
section as early as 1852. After crossing the Snake River the cutoff
headed north from Fort Hall toward Big Southern Butte following the
Lost River part of the way.
It passed
near the present-day town of Arco, Idaho
and wound through the northern part of Craters of
the Moon National Monument
. From there it went southwest to
Camas Prairie and ended at old Fort Boise on
the
Boise River. This journey typically
took two to three weeks and was noted for its very rough, lava
restricted roads and extremely dry climate, which tended to dry the
wooden wheels on the wagons, which caused the iron rims to fall off
the wheels. Loss of wheels caused many abandoned wagons to lay
along the route. It rejoined the main trail east of Boise.
Goodale's
Cutoff is visible at many points along Idaho Highway 20, Idaho Highway 26 and Idaho Highway 93 between Craters of the Moon
National Monument and Carey, Idaho
.
From the
present site of Pocatello
the trail proceeded almost due west on the
south side of the Snake River for about . On this route they
passed Cauldron Linn rapids, Shoshone Falls
, and two falls near the present city of Twin
Falls, Idaho
and Upper Salmon Falls on the Snake River.
At Salmon Falls there were often a hundred or more Indians fishing
who would often trade for their salmon—a welcome treat.
The trail
continued west to Three Island Crossing (near present day Glenns
Ferry, Idaho
). Here most emigrants used the divisions of
the river caused by three islands to cross the difficult and swift
Snake River by ferry or by driving or sometimes floating their
wagons and swimming teams across. The crossings were doubly
treacherous because there were often hidden holes in the river
bottom which if your team dropped into the wagon may overturn and
the wagon and team would end in a large snarl with the drivers in
the river or sometimes fatally tangled up in the snarl. Before
ferries were established there were several drownings here nearly
every year.
The north side of the Snake had better water and grass than the
south. The trail from Three Island Crossing to old Fort Boise was
about 130 miles long before getting into the welcome relief of the
usually lush Boise River valley and the next required crossing of
the Snake River near old
Fort Boise. This
last crossing of the Snake was usually done on bull boats and
swimming the stock across. Others would chain a large string of
wagons and teams together with a set of teams on a long chain in
front. The theory was that the front teams, usually oxen, would get
out of water first and with good footing help pull the whole string
of wagons and teams across. How well this worked in practice is not
stated. Often young Indian boys were hired to drive and ride the
stock across the river—they at least knew how to swim unlike many
pioneers.
Today’s Idaho Interstate 84 roughly follows the Oregon trail
till it leaves the Snake River near Burley, Idaho
From there Interstate
86 to Pocatello roughly approximates the trail. Highway 30 from there to Montpelier Idaho follows
roughly the path of the Oregon Trail.
Starting in about 1848 the South Alternate of Oregon Trail (also
called the Snake River Cutoff) was developed as a spur off the main
trail.
It
by-passed the Three Island Crossing and continued traveling down
the south side of the Snake River, till it rejoined the trail near
present day Ontario,
Oregon
. It hugged the southern edge of the Snake
River canyon and was a much rougher trail with poorer water and
grass; requiring occasional steep descents and ascents with the
animals down into the Snake River canyon to get water. It did avoid
two dangerous crossings of the Snake River though. Today's Idaho
State Route 78 roughly follows the path of the South Alternate
route of the Oregon Trail.
In about
1860 the Kelton Road was developed from roughly the City of Rocks
to about west of the California Trail
junction. It used the main Oregon Trail from there to Boise
crossing to the North side of the Snake River at Three Island
Crossing or Glenn's Ferry (after it was established about 1867). It
was used primarily as a freight road for carrying freight to newly
discovered mining districts of the Idaho Territory from both Salt
Lake City, using the
Salt Lake
Cutoff, and California, using the California trail in reverse.
After the
First Transcontinental Railroad was completed in 1869 the Kelton
Road was extended to the railroad and used as a freight road from
the railroad (where the town of Kelton, Utah
was established) to Boise, Idaho
and the northern Idaho mines. They built
relay stations at about ten mile intervals on the trail from Kelton
to Boise to facilitate changing their teams.
Today Kelton, Utah
is a ghost town because the railroad was re-routed
across the middle of The Great Salt Lake
across the Lucin Cutoff
.
Oregon
Once
across the Snake River ford near old
Fort Boise the weary travelers traveled
across what would become the state of Oregon
.
The trail
then went to the Malheur River and
then past Farewell Bend on the Snake river, up the Burnt
River
canyon and northwest to the La
Grande
valley before coming to the Blue
Mountains
. In 1843 settlers cut a wagon road over
these mountains making them passable for the first time to wagons.
For five
years the trail went to the Whitman Mission
near old Walla Walla
Washington
until 1847 when the Whitmans were killed by Native
Americans. At Fort Walla Walla some built rafts or
hired boats and started down the Columbia; others continued west in
their wagons till they hit The Dalles
. After 1847 the trail bypassed the closed
mission and headed almost due west to present day Pendleton,
Oregon
, crossing the Umatilla River
, John Day River, and
Deschutes River before
arriving at The Dalles. Interstate 84 in Oregon roughly follows
the original Oregon Trail from Idaho to The Dalles.
Arriving
at the Columbia at the Dalles and stopped by the Cascade Mountains and Mount Hood
, some gave up their wagons or disassembled them and
put them on boats or rafts for a trip down the Columbia River. Transiting the
Cascade's Columbia River Gorge
with its multiple rapids and treacherous winds they
would have to make the portage around the famous Cascade
Rapids
before coming out near the Willamette River where Oregon City,
Oregon
was located. The pioneer's
livestock could be driven around Mount Hood on the narrow, crooked
and rough Lolo
Pass
.
Several Oregon Trail branches and route variations over time led to
the
Willamette Valley.
Besides
boats or rafts down the Columbia River, the most popular was the
Barlow
Road
carved though the forest around Mount Hood
from The Dalles in 1846 as a toll road at $5.00 per
wagon and $0.10 per head of livestock. It was rough and
steep with poor grass but still cheaper and safer than floating
goods, wagons and family down the dangerous Columbia River.
In
Central Oregon there was the Santiam Wagon Road
(established 1861) roughly paralleling Oregon
Highway 20 to the Willamette Valley. The Applegate Trail (established 1846) cutting
off the California Trail from the
Humboldt River in Nevada
crossed part of California
before cutting north to the south end of the
Willamette Valley. U.S.
Route 99 through Oregon and
Interstate 5 through Oregon roughly follow the
original Applegate Trail's route.
Travel equipment
Wagons
The
Oregon Trail was too long and arduous for the standard Conestoga wagons commonly used at that time
in the Eastern
United States
and on the Santa Fe
Trail. Their freight capacity was larger than needed,
and the large teams (8 to 10 animals) these wagons required could
not navigate the tight corners often found on the Oregon
Trail.
This led to the rapid development of
prairie schooners. This
wagon was approximately half the size of the larger Conestoga,
weighed about empty with about of capacity and about of storage
space in an -long, -wide, by -high box. These wagons could be
easily be pulled by 4 to 6
oxen or 6 to 10
mules. Extra animals were often recommended
because animals could stray or become injured or die on the trip.
Often late in the trip mixed teams that included
dairy cows and riding
ponies were sometimes hitched up to make a usable
team. The wagons were manufactured in quantity by companies like
Studebaker at a reasonable price, with
new wagons costing between $85 and $170. The cotton canvas covers
of the wagons were doubled and treated with
linseed oil to help keep out the rain, dust and
wind, though the covers tended to leak rain and dust eventually
anyway. The typical wagon with diameter wheels could easily move
over rough ground and rocks without high centering and even over
most tree stumps if required. The wooden wheels were protected with
an iron rim typically about wide. These iron tires were installed
hot so they would shrink tightly onto the wood wheel when they
cooled. Nevertheless it was often advisable to soak the wheel in
water as the dry desert air sometimes dried the tires so much the
iron tire was prone to fall off. In practice it was found that the
standard farm wagon built by a company or wagon maker (wainwright)
of good reputation usually worked almost as well as prairie
schooners and had only to be fitted with wooden bows and a canvas
cover to be ready. Wagons were generally reliable if maintained,
but they sometimes broke down and had to be repaired or abandoned
along the way. Broken axles and broken wagon tongues were two of
the most common problems, and replacements were created out of
whatever wood was available. Abandoned wagons were typically
scavenged for whatever parts were needed. One wagon could carry
enough food for six months' travel for four or five as well as a
short list of household and luxury items. As a bonus, they also
provided ready shelter and protection from bad weather, and the
supplies and goods carried did not need to be unloaded at night or
loaded onto draft animals each morning.
It is estimated that about seventy percent (or more) of the wagons
traveling west were pulled by oxen; mule teams were a strong second
choice at 20–30%, and initially there were almost no horse-pulled
wagons. This was true for many reasons. An ox team was about 10%
slower than a mule or horse-pulled wagon (about 2–3 miles/hour).
However, they were cheaper to buy ($25 to $85 per yoke versus up to
$600 or more for six horses), easier to train, could pull more,
survived better on the sparse grass often found along the trail,
did not require oats or grain, and were often tamer and easier to
handle after they were trained. Novices could usually learn to
handle a trained ox team in about a week. Oxen could usually be
turned loose at night and easily rounded up in the mornings. Mules
and horses typically required herding day and night and often had
to be staked out on a rope or hobbled. Oxen were usually easier to
find and catch, and the Indians were usually less interested in
stealing them. Mules were the second choice (about as fast as a
horse and could survive well on the feed found along the way) and
worked well when trained. Trained mules were hard to find, and
mules were a serious problem to handle until trained by an
experienced mule skinner—up to a two-month project. In later years,
horses were chosen more often because they were about 10% faster
and the oats and grain required to keep them fit for months of
continuous work could often be bought along the way.
The ox drivers walked alongside the left side of their oxen team
and used voice commands "gee" (right) and "haw" (left) and a whip
to guide them, and mules were often guided by riding one (typically
the left hand wheel mule) that was hooked to the wagon and handling
the reins from there. Whips were seldom used to actually whip the
animals but were used to get the animal's attention by making them
snap in the air.
Food
The recommended amount of food to take for per adult was of
flour, of
corn meal,
of
bacon, of
sugar, of
coffee, of
dried
fruit, of
salt, half a pound (0.25 kg)
of saleratus (
baking soda), of
tea, of
rice, and of
beans. These provisions were usually kept in a
water-tight containers or barrels to minimize spoilage. The usual
meal for breakfast, lunch and dinner along the trail was bacon,
beans, coffee and biscuits or bread. The typical cost of enough
food for four people for six months was about $150.
The amount of food required was lessened if beef cattle, calves or
sheep were taken along for a walking food supply. Prior to the
1870s there were vast herds of
buffalo in Nebraska which provided fresh meat
and jerky for the trip. In general, wild game could not be depended
on for a regular source of food, but when found it was relished as
a welcome change in a monotonous diet. Travelers could hunt
antelope,
buffalo,
sage hen,
trout, and occasionally
elk,
bear,
duck,
geese,
salmon and
deer along the trail. Most travelers carried a
rifle or shotgun and spare powder, lead and primers for hunting
game and protection against snakes and Indian attacks. When they
got to the Snake River and Columbia River areas they would often
trade with the Indians for
salmon—a welcome
change. The Indians in Oregon often traded potatoes and other
vegetables they had learned to grow from the missionaries. Some
families took along milk cows, goats, and chickens (penned in
crates tied to the wagons). Additional food like pickles, canned
butter, cheese or pickled eggs were occasionally carried, but
canned goods were expensive and food preservation was primitive, so
few items could be safely kept for the four- to six-month duration
of the trip.
Cooking along the trail was typically done over a campfire dug into
the ground and made of wood,
buffalo
chips, willow or sagebrush. Flint and steel were used to start
fires. Some carried matches in water-tight containers to help start
fires. Fire was typically borrowed from a neighbor for ease of
starting. Cooking typically required simple cooking utensils such
as butcher knives, large spoons, spatulas, ladles,
Dutch ovens, pots and pans, grills, spits, coffee
pots and an iron tripod to suspend the pans and pots over the fire.
Some brought small stoves, but these were often jettisoned along
the way as too heavy and unnecessary. Wooden or canvas buckets were
brought for carrying water, and most travelers carried canteens
and/or water bags for daily use. At least one ten gallon water
barrel was brought, but it was usually kept nearly empty to
minimize weight (some water in it helped prevent it from drying out
and losing its water tightness); it was only filled for long
waterless stretches. Some brought a new invention—an
India Rubber combination mattress and water
carrier.
Clothing and equipment
Tobacco was popular, both for personal use and for trading with
Indians. Each person brought at least two changes of clothes and
multiple pairs of boots (two to three pairs often wore out on a
trip). About 25 pounds of soap was recommended for a party of four
for bathing and washing clothes. A washboard and tub was also
usually included to aid in washing clothes. Wash days typically
occurred once or twice a month or less, depending on availability
of good grass, water and fuel. Most wagons carried tents for
sleeping, though in good weather most would sleep outside of the
tent and wagon. A thin fold-up mattress, blankets, pillows, canvas
or rubber
gutta percha ground covers
were used for sleeping at night. Sometimes an unfolded feather bed
mattress was brought for the wagon if there were pregnant women or
very young children along. The wagons had no springs, and the ride
along the trail was very rough. Despite modern depictions, almost
nobody actually rode in the wagons; it was too dusty, too rough and
hard on the livestock.
Travelers also brought personal items such as books,
Bibles, trail guides, and writing quills, ink and
paper for recording a diary (about one in 200 initially kept a
diary) or writing a letter.
Belts and folding knives were carried by nearly all men and boys.
Awls, scissors, pins, needles and thread to repair clothes, shoes,
harnesses, equipment and occasionally people were constantly in
use. Spare leather used for repairs was often needed and used.
Goggles to keep dust out of eyes were used by some. Storage boxes
were often the same height so they could be arranged to give a flat
surface inside the wagon for sleeping during bad weather.
Saddles, bridles, hobbles, ropes etc. were needed if they had a
horse or riding mule, and many men did. Extra harness and wagon
parts were often carried. Steel shoes for oxen, mules or horses and
some spare parts for the wagons were carried by most. Tar was often
carried to help repair an injured ox's hoof.
Goods, supplies and equipment were often shared by fellow
travelers. Other goods that were forgotten, broken or wore out
could often be found discarded by someone else, bought from a
fellow traveler, post or fort along the way. New iron shoes for
horses, mules and oxen were often put on by blacksmiths found along
the way. Equipment repairs and other goods could often be procured
from blacksmith shops established at some forts and some ferries
along the way. Emergency supplies, repairs and livestock were often
provided by local residents in Oregon, California and Utah for late
travelers on the trail who were hurrying to beat the snow and had
run out of supplies, broken down or needed fresh animals.
Along the way, non-essential items were often abandoned to lighten
the load, or in case of emergency. Many travelers would salvage
discarded items, picking up essentials or trading their lower
quality items for better ones found along the road. Some profitted
by collecting discarded items and hauling them back to jumping off
places and reselling them. In the early years Mormons sent
scavenging parties back along the trail to salvage as much iron and
other supplies as possible and haul it to Salt Lake City where
supplies of all kinds were needed. Others would use discarded
wagons, wheels and furniture as firewood. During the 1849 gold
rush, Fort Laramie was known as "Camp Sacrifice" because of the
large amounts merchandise discarded nearby. Travelers had pushed
along the relatively easy path to Fort Laramie with their luxury
items but discarded them before the difficult mountain crossing
ahead and after discovering that many items could be purchased at
the forts or located for free along the way. Many of the smarter
travelers carried their "excess" goods to Salt Lake City.
Professional tools used by blacksmith, carpenter, farmer, etc. were
carried by nearly all. Shovels, crow bars, picks, hoes, mattocks,
saws, hammers, axes and hatchets were used to clear or make a road
through trees or brush, cut down the banks to cross a wash or steep
banked stream, build a raft or bridge, or repair the wagon where
necessary. In general as little road work as possible was done.
Travel was often along the top of ridges to avoid the brush and
washes common in many valleys.
Statistics
Emigrants
Estimated California Oregon Mormon Trail
Emigrants
| Year |
Oregon |
California |
Utah |
Total |
| 1834–39 |
20 |
— |
— |
20 |
| 1840 |
13 |
— |
— |
13 |
| 1841 |
24 |
34 |
— |
58 |
| 1842 |
125 |
— |
— |
125 |
| 1843 |
875 |
38 |
— |
913 |
| 1844 |
1,475 |
53 |
— |
1,528 |
| 1845 |
2,500 |
260 |
— |
2,760 |
| 1846 |
1,200 |
1,500 |
— |
2,700 |
| 1847 |
4,000 |
450 |
2,200 |
6,650 |
| 1848 |
1,300 |
400 |
2,400 |
4,100 |
| Tot to '49 |
11,512 |
2,735 |
4,600 |
18,847 |
| 1849 |
450 |
25,000 |
1,500 |
26,950 |
| 1850 |
6,000 |
44,000 |
2,500 |
52,500 |
| 1851 |
3,600 |
1,100 |
1,500 |
6,200 |
| 1852 |
10,000 |
50,000 |
10,000 |
70,000 |
| 1853 |
7,500 |
20,000 |
8,000 |
35,500 |
| 1854 |
6,000 |
12,000 |
3,200 |
21,200 |
| 1855 |
500 |
1,500 |
4,700 |
6,700 |
| 1856 |
1,000 |
8,000 |
2,400 |
11,400 |
| 1857 |
1,500 |
4,000 |
1,300 |
6,800 |
| 1858 |
1,500 |
6,000 |
150 |
7,650 |
| 1859 |
2,000 |
17,000 |
1,400 |
20,400 |
| 1860 |
1,500 |
9,000 |
1,600 |
12,100 |
| Total |
53,000 |
200,300 |
43,000 |
296,300 |
| 1834–60 |
Oregon |
California |
Utah |
Total |
| 1861 |
— |
— |
3,148 |
5,000 |
| 1862 |
— |
— |
5,244 |
5,000 |
| 1863 |
— |
— |
4,760 |
10,000 |
| 1864 |
— |
— |
2,626 |
10,000 |
| 1865 |
— |
— |
690 |
20,000 |
| 1866 |
— |
— |
3,299 |
25,000 |
| 1867 |
— |
— |
700 |
25,000 |
| 1868 |
— |
— |
4,285 |
25,000 |
| Total |
80,000 |
250,000 |
70,000 |
400,000 |
| 1834–67 |
Oregon |
California |
Utah |
Total |
|
Some of the trail statistics for the early years were recorded by
the U.S. Army at Fort Laramie, Wyoming, from about 1849 to 1855.
None of these original statistical records have been found—the Army
lost them or destroyed them. There are only some diary references
to these records and some partial written copies of the Army
records as recorded in several diaries. Emigration to California
spiked considerably with the
1849
gold rush. Following the discovery of gold, California remained
the destination of choice for most emigrants on the trail up to
1860, with almost 200,000 people traveling there between 1849 and
1860.
Travel after 1860 is even less well known as the Civil War caused
considerable disruptions on the trail. Many of the people on the
trail in 1861–1863 were fleeing the war and its attendant drafts in
both the south and the north. Trail historian Merrill J. Mattes has
estimated the number of emigrants for 1861–1867 given in the total
column of the above table. But these estimates may well be low
since they only amount to an extra 125,000 people, and the 1870
census shows that over 200,000 additional people (ignoring most of
California's population increase which had an excellent sea and
rail connections across Panama by then) showed up in all the states
served by the California/Oregon/Mormon/Bozeman Trail(s) and its
offshoots. Mormon emigration records after 1860 are reasonably well
known as newspaper and other accounts in Salt Lake City give most
of the names of emigrants arriving each year from 1847 to 1868.
Gold and silver strikes in Colorado, Oregon, Idaho, Nevada and
Montana also caused a considerable increase in people using the
trails often in directions different than the original trail
users.
Though the numbers are significant in the context of the times, far
more people chose to remain at home in the 31 states. Between 1840
and 1860, the population of the Unitd States rose by 14 million,
yet only about 300,000 decided to make the trip. Between 1860 and
1870 the U.S. population increased by seven million, with about
350,000 of this increase being in the Western states. Many were
discouraged by the cost, effort and danger of the trip. Western
scout
Kit Carson reputedly said, "The
cowards never started and the weak died on the way." According to
several sources 3–10% of the emigrants are estimated to have
perished on the way west.
Western Census Data
Census Population of western States
| State |
1870 |
1860 |
Difference |
| California |
560,247 |
379,994 |
180,253 |
| Nevada |
42,491 |
6,857 |
35,634 |
| Oregon |
90,923 |
52,465 |
38,458 |
| Colorado* |
39,684 |
34,277 |
5,407 |
| Idaho* |
14,990 |
— |
14,990 |
| Montana* |
20,595 |
— |
20,595 |
| Utah* |
86,789 |
40,273 |
46,516 |
| Washington* |
23,955 |
11,594 |
12,361 |
| Wyoming* |
9,118 |
— |
9,118 |
| Totals |
888,792 |
525,460 |
363,332 |
| *Territories |
|
|
|
|
These census numbers show a 363,000 population increase in the
western states and territories between 1860 and 1870. Some of this
increase is because of a high birth rate in the western states and
territories but most is from emigrants moving from the east to the
west and new immigration from Europe.
Much of the increase
in California and Oregon is from emigration by ship as there were
fast and reasonable "low" cost transportation via east and west
coast steam ships and the Panama Railroad
after 1855. The census numbers imply at
least 200,000 emigrants (or more) used some variation of the
California/Oregon/Mormon/Bozeman trails to get to their new homes
in the 1860–1870 decade.
Costs
The cost of traveling over the Oregon Trail and its extensions
varied from nothing to a few hundred dollars per person. Women
seldom went alone outside of family groups. The cheapest way was to
hire on to help drive the wagons or herds, allowing one to make the
trip for nearly nothing or even make a small profit. Those with
capital could often buy livestock in the midwest and drive the
stock to California or Oregon for profit. About 60–80% of the
travelers were farmers and as such already owned a wagon, livestock
team and many of the necessary supplies. This lowered the cost of
the trip to about $50 per person for food and other items. Families
often planned for a trip months in advance and made many of the
extra clothing and other items needed. Individuals buying most of
the needed items would end up spending between $150–$200 per
person. As the trail matured, additional costs for ferries and toll
roads were thought to have been about $30 per wagon.
Deaths
Oregon-California-Mormon Trail Deaths
| Cause |
Estimated deaths |
| Disease |
6,000–12,500 |
| Indian attacks |
500–1,000 |
| Freezing |
300–500 |
| Run overs |
200–500 |
| Drownings |
200–500 |
| Shootings |
200–500 |
| Miscellaneous |
200–500 |
| Scurvy |
300–500 |
| Totals |
8,000–16,500 |
The route west was arduous and filled with many dangers, but the
number of deaths on the trail is not known with any precision and
there are only wildly varying estimates. The estimates are made
even harder by the common practice then of burying people in
unmarked graves that were intentionally disguised to avoid them
being dug up by animals or Indians. Graves were often put in the
middle of a trail and then run over by their livestock to make them
difficult to find. Diseases like cholera were the main killer of
trail travelers with up to 3% of all travelers dying of cholera in
the cholera years of 1849 to 1855.
Indian attacks increased significantly after 1860 when most of the
army troops were withdrawn and miners and ranchers began fanning
out all over the country often encroaching on Indian territory.
Increased attacks along the Humboldt led to most travelers taking
the
Central Nevada Route across
Nevada. The Goodall cutoff was developed in Idaho in 1862 which
kept Oregon bound travelers away from much of the Indian trouble
nearer the Snake River. Other trails were developed that traveled
further along the South Platte to avoid local Indian hot
spots.
Other common causes of death included:
hypothermia, drowning in river crossings,
getting run over by wagons, and accidental gun deaths. Drownings
probably peaked in 1849 and 1850 when young impatient and pushy men
were the predominant population on the trail. Later more family
groups started traveling as well as many more ferries and bridges
were being put in, and fording a dangerous river became much less
common and dangerous. Surprisingly few people were taught to swim
in this era. Run overs were a major cause of death, despite the
wagons only averaging 2–3 miles per hour. The wagons could not
easily be stopped, and people, particularly children, were often
trying to get on and off the wagons while they were moving—not
always successfully. Another hazard a dress getting caught in the
wheels and pulling the person under it. Accidental shootings
declined significantly after Fort Laramie as people became more
familiar with their weapons and often just left them in their
wagons. Carrying around a ten pound rifle all day soon became
tedious and usually unnecessary as the perceived Indian threat
faded and hunting opportunities receded.
A significant number of travelers were suffering from
scurvy by the end of their trips. Their typical flour
and salted pork/bacon diet had very little
vitamin C in it. The diet in the mining camps was
also typically very poor in fresh vegetables and fruit, which
indirectly led to early deaths of many of the Argonauts. Some
believe that scurvy deaths from poor nutrition may have rivaled
cholera as a killer with most deaths occurring after they reached
California. Many understood the importance of a diet that included
fresh vegetables and fruit and how to prevent scurvy was common
knowledge in some circles but far from universally known or taught.
The Chinese Argonauts with their insistence on many vegetables in
their diet fared much better.
Miscellaneous deaths included deaths by: homicides, lightning
strikes, childbirths, stampedes, snake bites, flash floods, falling
trees, kicks by animals, etc. According to an evaluation by John
Unruh, a 4% death rate or 16,000 out of 400,000 total pioneers on
all trails may have died on the trail.
Legacy
One of the main enduring legacies of the Oregon Trail is the
expansion of the United States territory to the West Coast. Without
the many thousands of United States settlers in Oregon and
California and thousands more on their way each year, it is highly
unlikely that this would have occurred. The western expansion and
the Oregon Trail in particular inspired many songs that told of the
settlers' experiences. "Uncle Sam's Farm" encouraged east-coast
dwellers to "Come right away. Our lands they are broad enough, so
don't be alarmed. Uncle Sam is rich enough to give us all a farm."
In "Western Country," the singer exhorts that "if I had no horse at
all, I'd still be a hauling, far across those Rocky Mountains,
goin' away to Oregon."
Video games
The story of the Oregon Trail inspired a popular educational
computer game of the same name,
The Oregon Trail. The
game became widely popular in the 1980s and early 1990s. Several
sequels to the game were also released, such as
The Oregon Trail II,
The Yukon Trail, and
The Amazon Trail.The game resurfaced
in 2008 when
Gameloft created an updated
version for cell phones.
TV show
The Oregon Trail was briefly made into a television series that ran
from September 21, 1977 – October 26, 1977, on NBC. The show
starred Tony Becker, Darleen Carr,
Charles Napier,
Rod Taylor and Ken Swofford. Although it was
canceled after 6 episodes, the remaining episodes were still aired
on BBC 2 in the U.K.
See also
Notes
Further reading
External links