
Pain d'épices
Pain d'épices ("spice-bread"), sometimes
loosely translated as
gingerbread, is a
French
cake whose ingredients, according to the
Dictionnaire de
l'académie française (1694) are "
rye flour,
honey and
spices" today including
aniseed but not traditionally
ginger.
According to Maguelonne Toussaint-Samat, the
commercial production of pain d'épices was a specialty of
Reims
, made to a recipe of a pastry-cook from Bourges
, and given
éclat by the taste for it of Charles VII, "King of Bourges" and his
mistress Agnes Sorel. The honey
used was the dark
buckwheat honey of
Brittany. In 1571 the Corporation of
Spice-Bread Makers of Reims were chartered separately from the
pastry-cooks; in 1596 the Parisian makers of
pain d'épices
were given their charter, too.
The of pain d'épices of Dijon
outpaced its
older competitors in the Napoleonic era. In Alsace
, a
considerable tradition of pain d'épices incorporates a
pinch of cinnamon.
Pain d'épices was a kind of
sourdough without leavening; it was left in a
wooden trough to rest in a cool place for months, during which the
honey experienced a fermentation, before it was cooked in moulds.
The modern product rises instead with
baking powder, developed in the nineteenth
century.
Notes
- Maguelonne Toussaint-Samat (Anthea Bell, tr.) The History
of Food, 2nd ed. 2009:28-30.
- Maguelonne Toussaint-Samat (Anthea Bell, tr.) The History
of Food, 2nd ed. 2009:28-30; Toussaint-Samat provides the
basic details reported in this article.