
View from the northeast, circa
1911.
The sheer size of the structure in comparison to the
surrounding buildings is notable.
Very little of this scene survives in modern Manhattan.

Pennsylvania Station in 1962
Pennsylvania
Station—commonly known as Penn Station—is
the major intercity rail station and a
major commuter rail hub in New York City
. The station is located in the underground
levels of
Pennsylvania Plaza, an
urban complex located between Seventh Avenue and Eighth Avenue and
between 31st Street & 33rd Street in
Midtown Manhattan, and is owned by
Amtrak.
Serving 600,000 passengers a day
(compared to 140,000 across town at Grand Central
Terminal
) at a rate of up to a thousand every
90 seconds, it is the busiest passenger transportation
facility in the United
States
and by far the busiest train station in North
America.
Penn
Station is at the center of the Northeast Corridor, an electrified passenger rail
line extending south to Washington, D.C.
, and north to Boston
. Intercity trains are operated by Amtrak,
while commuter rail services are operated by the
Long Island Rail Road and
New Jersey Transit. The station is also
served by six
New York City
Subway routes.
Penn
Station is the busiest
Amtrak station in the United States
. The station saw 8.7 million Amtrak
arrivals and departures in 2008, double the traffic at the next
busiest station, Union Station
in Washington, D.C. Penn Station's assigned
IATA airport code is ZYP. Its
Amtrak and NJ Transit station code is NYP.
Services
Amtrak
- Acela Express to Boston,
Providence, Philadelphia, Baltimore, and Washington
- Adirondack to Montréal

- Cardinal to
Philadelphia, Washington, Cincinnati, and Chicago
- Carolinian to
Philadelphia, Washington, Richmond, Raleigh, and Charlotte
- Crescent to
Philadelphia, Washington, Greensboro, Atlanta, and New Orleans
- Empire Service
to Yonkers, Croton-Harmon, Poughkeepsie, Rhinecliff, Hudson,
Albany, Schenectady, Amsterdam, Utica, Rome, Syracuse, Rochester,
Buffalo, and Niagara Falls
- Ethan Allen Express
to Albany and Rutland
- Keystone Service to
Philadelphia, Lancaster, and Harrisburg
- Lake Shore Limited
to Albany, Syracuse, Rochester, Buffalo, Cleveland, Toledo, and
Chicago
- Maple Leaf to
Albany, Syracuse, Rochester, Buffalo, and Toronto
- Pennsylvanian to
Philadelphia, Harrisburg, and Pittsburgh
- Northeast
Regional to Boston, Providence, New Haven, Trenton,
Philadelphia, Wilmington, Baltimore, Washington, Richmond, and
Newport News
- Palmetto,
Silver Meteor and
Silver Star to
Philadelphia, Washington, Savannah, Jacksonville, and Miami
- Vermonter to New Haven,
Springfield, and St. Albans
MTA
- New York City Transit
buses:
- M4
(Fifth and Madison Avenues/Broadway/Fort Washington Avenue):
Northbound only to West 193rd Street-Fort Washington Avenue,
Washington
Heights
(or the Cloisters Museum
in Fort Tryon Park
).
- M6
(Sixth and Seventh Avenues/Broadway): Southbound to South Ferry via 7th Avenue; or
northbound to Central
Park South
via 6th Avenue.
- M7
(Lenox, Columbus, Amsterdam, Sixth and Seventh Avenues): southbound
to West 14th Street-6th Avenue, Greenwich
Village
, via 7th Avenue; or northbound to West 147th
Street-Adam Clayton Powell Jr. Boulevard, Harlem
, via 6th Avenue.
- M10 (Seventh and Eighth
Avenues): Northbound only, to West 159th Street-Frederick Douglass
Boulevard, Harlem.
- M16
(34th Street Crosstown): Westbound to Port
Authority Bus Terminal
; or eastbound to Waterside Plaza
, Kips Bay
.
- M20
(Seventh and Eighth Avenues/Varick and Hudson Streets): Northbound
to Lincoln
Center
via Eighth Avenue; or southbound to Battery Park
City
via Seventh Avenue.
- M34
(34th Street Crosstown): Westbound to Jacob
K.
Javits Convention Center
; or eastbound to FDR
Drive.
- Q32 (Fifth and Madison
Avenues): Northbound only, to 81st Street and Northern Boulevard in
Jackson Heights,
Queens.
New Jersey Transit
- Montclair-Boonton Line to Secaucus
Junction
, Newark
and Montclair
, with connecting service to Boonton
, Dover
and Hackettstown
- Morris and
Essex Lines to Secaucus Junction
, Newark
, Summit
, Morristown
, Dover
and Gladstone-Peapack, New
Jersey
- Northeast
Corridor Line to Secaucus Junction
, Newark
, Newark Airport
, New Brunswick, Princeton Junction, and Trenton
(connects to SEPTA trains to Philadelphia
, and River Line light
rail to Camden, New
Jersey
)
- North
Jersey Coast Line to Secaucus Junction
, Newark
, Newark Airport
, Perth Amboy, and Long Branch, with connecting
service to Point Pleasant Beach and Bay Head
- ACES (express service) to
Pennsylvania
Station
and Atlantic City Rail Terminal
.
Passengers can transfer at Secaucus
Junction
to Main Line,
Bergen County Line, and Pascack Valley Line trains.
Passengers can transfer at Newark
to Raritan Valley
Line trains.
PATH
Port
Authority Trans-Hudson
(PATH) service to Hoboken
and Jersey City, New Jersey
does not technically serve Penn Station, but is
located only a block away, at 33rd Street
and Sixth Avenue
. It was once accessible via underground
passageway, but this has been closed to the public for security
reasons, and now the only access is via the surface streets.
Continental Airlines
Continental Airlines operates a
ticketing counter in the Amtrak section.
History
Pennsylvania Station is named for the
Pennsylvania Railroad (PRR), its
builder and original tenant, and shares its name with several
stations in other cities. The current facility is the substantially
remodeled underground remnant of a much grander structure designed
by
McKim, Mead, and White and
completed in 1910. The original Pennsylvania Station was an
outstanding masterpiece of the
Beaux-Arts style and one of the
architectural jewels of New York City. The station's air rights
were optioned in the 50's. The option was executed soon after. The
option called for the demolition of the
head-house and
train
shed, to be replaced by an office complex and a new sports
complex. The tracks of the station, which were located well below
street level, would remain untouched. Demolition began in October
1963.
The
Pennsylvania Plaza complex,
including the fourth and current Madison Square Garden
, was completed in 1968.
Planning and construction
Until the
early 20th century, PRR's rail network terminated on the western
side of the Hudson River (once known
locally as the North River) at Exchange Place in Jersey City,
New Jersey
. Manhattan-bound passengers boarded ferries
to cross the Hudson River for the final stretch of their journey.
The rival
New York Central
Railroad's line ran down Manhattan from the north under Park
Avenue and terminated at Grand Central Terminal
in the heart of Manhattan's business
district.
To address its competitive disadvantage, the Pennsylvania Railroad
considered building a rail bridge across the Hudson. This option
was rejected when the other railroads using ferries across the
Hudson River from New Jersey declined to participate jointly in a
bridge project, which was required to obtain state approval. The
alternative was to tunnel under the river, but a tunnel's length
would be difficult to ventilate and too long to be compatible with
steam locomotives. Moreover, the
New York state legislature had adopted legislation prohibiting
operation of steam locomotives in Manhattan after July 1, 1908. The
development of the
electric
locomotive at the turn of the 20th century, however, made
feasible the construction of a tunnel for an electrified railroad.
On December 12, 1901, PRR president
Alexander Cassatt announced the railroad's
plan to enter New York City by tunneling under the Hudson and
building a grand station on the West Side of Manhattan, south of
34th Street.

Tunnel under the Hudson, 1910s
Beginning
in June, 1903 the North River Tunnels
, two single-track tunnels, were bored from the west
under the Hudson River and four single-track tunnels were bored
from the east under the East River
. This second set of tunnels linked the new
station to Queens
and the
Long Island Rail Road, which came under PRR control (see East River Tunnels), and Sunnyside
Yard
in Queens, where trains would be maintained and
assembled. Electrification was initially 600 volts
DC–third rail, later changed to 11,000
volts AC–overhead catenary, when
electrification of PRR's mainline was eventually extended to
Washington,
D.
C.
in the early 1930s.
The
tunnel technology was so innovative that in 1907 the PRR shipped an
actual diameter section of the new East River Tunnel to the
Jamestown Exposition near
Norfolk, Virginia to celebrate the 300th anniversary of the
founding of the Jamestown Settlement
. The same tube, with an inscription
indicating that it had been displayed at the Exposition, was later
installed under water and remains in use today. Construction was
completed on the Hudson River tunnel on October 9, 1906, and on the
East River tunnel March 18, 1908. Meanwhile, ground was broken for
Pennsylvania Station on May 1, 1904. By the time of its completion
and the inauguration of regular through train service on Sunday,
November 27, 1910, the total project cost to the Pennsylvania
Railroad for the station and associated tunnels was $114 million
(approximately $2.5 billion in 2007 dollars), according to an
Interstate Commerce
Commission report.
The railroad paid tribute to Cassatt, who did not live to see the
completion of his great edifice:
Occupying two complete city blocks from Seventh Avenue to Eighth
Avenue and from 31st to 33rd Streets, Pennsylvania Station when
completed covered an area of and was one of the first rail
terminals to separate arriving from departing passengers on two
different concourses.
Original structure (1910–1963)
The original structure was made of pink granite and was marked by
an imposing, sober
colonnade of
corinthian columns arranged in
Doric order. The colonnades embodied the
sophisticated integration of multiple functions and circulation of
people and goods.
McKim, Mead and
White's Pennsylvania Station combined frank glass-and-steel
train sheds and a magnificently proportioned concourse with a
breathtaking monumental entrance to New York City. It was
immortalized in films (see link below).
From the street, twin
carriageways, modelled after Berlin's Brandenburg Gate
, led to the two railroads that the building served,
the Pennsylvania and the Long Island Rail Road. Its enormous main
waiting room, inspired by the Roman Baths of Caracalla
, approximated the scale of St. Peter's nave in
Rome, expressed here in a steel framework clad in travertine. It was the largest indoor
space in New York City and, indeed, one of the largest public
spaces in the world. Covering more than , it was, said the
Baltimore
Sun in April, 2007, “As grand a corporate
statement in stone, glass and sculpture as one could imagine”. In
her 2007 book,
Conquering Gotham: a Gilded Age Epic – The
Construction of Penn Station and Its Tunnels, historian Jill
Jonnes called the original edifice a “great Doric temple to
transportation”.
During
the more than half-century timespan of the original station under
owner Pennsylvania Railroad
(1910-1963), hundreds of intercity passenger trains arrived and
departed daily, serving distant places such as Chicago
and St. Louis
on “Pennsy” rails, and beyond on connecting
railroads to Miami,
Florida
, and the west. In addition to the Long
Island Rail Road, other lines using Pennsylvania Station during
that era were the
New Haven and the
Lehigh Valley Railroads. For
a few years during
World War I and the
early 1920s, arch rival
Baltimore and Ohio Railroad
passenger trains to Washington, Chicago, and St. Louis also used
Pennsylvania Station, initially by order of the
USRA, until the
Pennsylvania Railroad terminated the B&O's access in 1926. The
station saw its heaviest usage during
World
War II, but by the late-1950s intercity rail passenger volumes
declined dramatically with the coming of the
Jet
Age and the
Interstate
Highway System.

The sprawling concourse in 1962 –
demolition was two years away
The Pennsylvania Railroad began looking to divest itself of the
cost of operation of the under-utilized structure, optioning the
air rights of Penn Station in the 1950s.
Plans for the new Penn Plaza and Madison Square Garden were
announced in 1962. In exchange for the air-rights to Penn Station,
the Pennsylvania Railroad would get a brand-new, air-conditioned,
smaller station located completely below street level at no cost,
and a 25% stake in the new Madison Square Garden Complex.
The demolition of the original structure — although considered by
some to be justified as progressive at a time of declining rail
passenger service — created international outrage.. As dismantling
of the grand old structure began,
The New York Times editorially
lamented:
"Until the first blow fell, no one was convinced that
Penn Station really would be demolished, or that New York would
permit this monumental act of vandalism against one of the largest
and finest landmarks of its age of Roman elegance."
Its destruction left a deep and lasting wound in the architectural
consciousness of the city. A famous photograph of a smashed
caryatid in the landfill of the
New Jersey Meadowlands struck a
guilty chord. Pennsylvania Station's demolition is considered to
have been the catalyst for the enactment of the city's first
architectural
preservation
statutes. The sculpture on the building, including the angel in the
landfill, was created by
Adolph
Alexander Weinman.
One of the sculpted clock surrounds, whose
figures were modeled using model Audrey
Munson, still survives as the Eagle Scout Memorial
Fountain in Kansas
City, Missouri
. There is also a caryatid at the sculpture
garden at the Brooklyn
Museum
, and all of the Penn Station eagles still
exist.
Ottawa's
Union
Station
, built a year after Penn Station (in 1912), is
another replica of the Baths of Caracalla
. This train station's departures hall now
provides a good idea of what the interior of Penn Station looked
like (at half the scale). Chicago's Union Station is similar as
well.
Killer's Kiss a 1955
film noir co-written and directed by
Stanley Kubrick features footage of the
concourse and the exterior facade.
Image:Penn_Station2.jpg|The concourse and steps down to the
tracksImage:NYP_LOC1.jpg|The Corinthian columns of the Main Waiting
RoomImage:NYP_LOC2.jpg|The concourse in 1962Image:NYP_LOC3.jpg|The
East (7th Ave.) exterior facadeImage:Penn Station1.jpg|Main Waiting
Room
Demolition of station building; construction of Madison Square
Garden
After a renovation covered some of the grand columns with plastic
and blocked off the spacious central hallway with a new ticket
office,
Lewis Mumford wrote critically
in
The New Yorker in 1958
that “nothing further that could be done to the station could
damage it”. History was to prove him wrong. Under the presidency of
Pennsylvania Railroad's
Stuart T.
Saunders (who later headed
ill-fated
Penn Central Transportation),
demolition of the above-ground components of this structure (the
platforms are below street level) began in October 1963.
Although
the demolition did not disrupt the essential day-to-day operations,
it made way for present-day Madison Square Garden
, along with two office towers. A 1968
advertisement depicted the architect's model of the final plan for
the Madison Square Garden Center complex, which would replace the
original Pennsylvania Station.
A point made in the defense of the demolition of the old Penn
Station at the time was that the cost of maintaining the old
structure had become prohibitively expensive. The question of
whether it made sense to preserve a building, intended to be a
cost-effective and functional piece of the city's infrastructure,
simply as a “monument” to the past was raised in defense of the
plans to demolish it. As a
New York
Times editorial critical of the demolition noted at the
time, a “civilization gets what it wants, is willing to pay for,
and ultimately deserves”. Modern architects rushed to save the
ornate building, although it was contrary to
their own styles. They called the
station a treasure and chanted “Don’t Amputate - Renovate” at
rallies.
Only
three eagles salvaged from the station are known to remain in New
York City: two in front of the Penn Plaza / Madison Square Garden
complex, and one at The Cooper Union
, Weinman's alma mater. Cooper's eagle used
to reside in the courtyard of the Albert Nerken School of
Engineering at 51 Astor Place, but was relocated in the summer of
2009, along with the engineering school, to a new academic building
at 41 Cooper Square. This eagle is no longer viewable from the
street, as it is located on the building's green roof.
Three are on Long
Island: two at the United States Merchant Marine
Academy
in Kings Point
and one at the Long Island Rail Road station
in Hicksville, New York
. Four reside on the Market
Street Bridge
in Philadelphia, Pennsylvania
, across from that city's 30th Street
Station
. One is positioned near the end zone at
the football field of
Hampden-Sydney College near
Farmville, Virginia.
Yet another is located on the grounds of the
National
Zoo
in Washington, DC.
The furor over the demolition of such a well-known landmark, and
its replacement by what continues to be widely deplored as a
mediocre slab, are often cited as catalysts for the architectural
preservation movement in the United States. New laws were passed to
restrict such demolition.
Within the decade, Grand Central
Terminal
was protected under the city’s new landmarks
preservation act — a protection which was upheld by the courts
in 1978, after a challenge by Grand Central’s owner, Penn
Central.
The outcry over the loss of Penn Station prompted activists to
question the “development scheme” mentality cultivated by New
York’s “master builder”,
Robert Moses.
Public protests and a rejection of his plan by the city government
meant an end to Moses' plans for a
Lower Manhattan Expressway.
In the longer run, the sense that something irreplaceable had been
lost contributed to the erosion of confidence in
Modernism itself and its sweeping forms of
urban renewal. Interest in
historic preservation was
strengthened. Comparing the new and the old Penn Station, renowned
Yale architectural historian
Vincent
Scully once wrote, “One entered the city like a god; one
scuttles in now like a rat.” This feeling, shared by many New
Yorkers, has led to movements for a new Penn Station that could
somehow atone for the loss of an architectural treasure.
Recent history and present day
The current Penn Station, which is on the site of the old one and
uses the same platforms, is arranged into "Amtrak", "NJ Transit"
and "LIRR" concourses. Each one is maintained and styled
differently by its respective operator. The NJ Transit concourse
near Seventh Avenue is the newest and opened in 2002 out of
existing retail and Amtrak backoffice space. A new entrance to this
concourse from West 31st Street opened in September 2009.
Previously, NJ Transit passengers could only use the Amtrak
concourse to reach their trains. The main LIRR concourse runs below
West 33rd Street between Seventh and Eighth Avenues. Significant
renovations were made to this concourse over a three year period
ending in 1994. The LIRR's West End Concourse, located west of
Eighth Avenue, opened in 1986. Parts of the Amtrak concourse (in
particular, the shopping areas) maintain the original 1960s styling
and have not been renovated since the new Penn Station was built;
however, there have been renovations to other parts (the waiting
rooms).
Tracks 1-12 are exclusively used by Amtrak and NJ Transit trains,
and the Amtrak and NJ Transit concourses both have gates to these
tracks on the south side of the station. The LIRR has the exclusive
use of Tracks 17-21 on the north side of the station, and shares
Tracks 13-16 with Amtrak and NJ Transit. Except for the shared
tracks, a passenger can not reach the LIRR tracks directly from the
Amtrak and NJ Transit concourses, and vice versa. Since Amtrak and
NJ Transit share the same tracks, it is possible for passengers to
exit a NJ Transit train and wind up in the Amtrak concourse, and
vice versa.

Departure board

Station concourse
In the 1990s, the current Pennsylvania Station was renovated by
Amtrak, the
Metropolitan
Transportation Authority, and
New
Jersey Transit, to improve the appearance of the waiting and
concession areas, sharpen the station information systems (audio
and visual) and remove much of the grime. Recalling the erstwhile
grandeur of the bygone Penn Station, an old four-sided clock from
the original depot was installed at the 34th Street Long Island
Rail Road entrance. The walkway from that entrance's escalator also
has a mural depicting elements of the old Penn Station's
architecture.
Despite
the improvements, Penn Station continues to be criticized as a
low-ceilinged “catacomb” lacking charm,
especially when compared to New York’s much larger and ornate
Grand Central
Terminal
. The
New York
Times, in a November 2007, editorial supporting
development of an enlarged railroad terminal, said, “Amtrak’s
beleaguered customers…now scurry through underground rooms bereft
of light or character”.
Plans for the future
Hope for a grander railroad station lies one block west.
Across
Eighth Avenue from Penn Station sits New York’s General Post
Office, the James Farley Post Office
. Under pressure from veteran U.S.
Senator
Daniel Patrick
Moynihan, plans were publicized in 1999 to move entrances and
concourses of Penn Station under this building, which fills an
entire city block. When completed, the station inside the historic
James A. Farley Building, a NY State and National Landmark, would
be named Moynihan Station West, in honor of the late Senator.
Initial design proposals were laid out by
David Childs of
Skidmore, Owings, and Merrill.
In a protracted series of events typical of many large, complicated
projects, plans to redevelop Penn Station have stretched further
and further into the future. In July 2005, announcements were made
that Childs' plan had been scrapped and a new one was unveiled.
This second plan was similar to but much more modest than the
original. It is the result of a collaboration between the
architectural firms of James Carpenter and
Hellmuth, Obata and Kassabaum
(HOK). Later in 2005, Skidmore, Owings, and Merrill reacquired the
project and released a third design, which is a compromise.
As of
June 2006, the design resembles the interior of BCE Place
and does not require the demolition of part of the
facade of the Farley Building.
Amtrak was to be the major tenant of the new building, leaving the
old station for use by the NYC commuter rail passengers. Signs of
construction appeared in November 2005, with plywood barriers
installed on the sidewalks and orange nets covering main facade on
8th Avenue.
Amtrak, however, subsequently decided not to move from its present
location, leaving
New Jersey
Transit as the Moynihan Station's anchor tenant. NJ Transit has
been negotiating a 99-year lease on the Farley Post Office. In the
meantime,
Cablevision, owner of Madison
Square Garden, considered relocation of the Garden to the west
flank of the Farley Building. Such a project would lead to
Vornado Realty Trust building an office
complex on the current Garden site.
Redevelopment of Penn Station thus continues to languish as various
design concepts are debated and altered. A revised version proposed
in 2007 would reportedly add one million square feet of retail
space to the new Moynihan train station and office complex,
prompting the
New York Times to complain that this latest
plan “could easily shortchange the public’s interests in favor of
the private developers…The last thing New York needs is another
dreadful Pennsylvania Station that only serves developers and
Madison Square Garden”.
New York Assembly Speaker
Sheldon
Silver has called for greater integration of the project with
the larger Midtown renovation plan proposed by developers and
Cablevision.
A FAQ for New Jersey Transit’s “THE tunnel/ Access to the Region’s
Core” suggests that Pennsylvania Station, Moynihan Station, and a
proposed rail station under 34th street will be considered to be
separate entities
[27729]. The proximity and connection of those
entities would make the Moynihan and 34th St. Stations
de
facto expansions of Penn Station. Daniel Patrick Moynihan's
daughter, Maura Moynihan, has stated that she considers the Farley
Building and current Madison Square Garden to be potential sites
for two Moynihan Stations: a Moynihan-East and a Moynihan-West.
[27730].
On April 3, 2008, Madison Square Garden executives announced plans
to renovate and modernize the current arena in time for the
Knicks and
Rangers 2011-12 seasons. This announcement
came a week after they declared that they have abandoned plans to
move the Garden to the Farley Post Office site. Hank J. Ratner, the
vice chairman of Madison Square Garden said, “We’re all for the
development of Moynihan Station at the Farley building, as the
project was originally conceived. We’re not going to be
moving.”
See also
Gallery
Image:Penn Station LIRR concourse.jpg|
Long Island Rail Road (LIRR)
underground concourseImage:Penn Station.jpg|A typical rush hour
crowd heading to an LIRR trainImage:NY Penn Station
platform.jpg|platform levelImage:New Jersey Transit terminal at
Pennsylvania Station NY.jpg|Rush hour at the
New Jersey Transit concourseImage:Penn
Station entrance.jpg|8th Avenue entrance
References
Notes
Bibliography
- Lorraine B. Diehl, The Late, Great Pennsylvania
Station. Lexington, Massachusetts
, Stephen Greene Press, 1985 ISBN
0-8289-0603-3
External links