Prada S.p.A. is an Italian
fashion
label designed by Mario Prada,
specializing in luxury goods for men
and women (ready-to-wear, leather accessories, shoes, and luggage
and hats), founded by Mario Prada. The label is a
status symbol. Like other brands, Prada
battles
counterfeiting, ensuring
authenticity only from its official worldwide boutiques and online
store.
History
Foundations
The
company was started by Fratelli Prada
(English: Prada Brothers) and by
Mario Prada in as a leathergoods shop in Milan
, Italy
. His
shop sold leather goods and imported English steamer trunks and
handbags. Fratelli Prada gained reputation. Mario Prada did not
believe in women interaction within business, and so he prevented
female family members from entering into his workshop. After his
death in the mid-1950s, Mario's son harbored no interest in the
business. So ironically, it was Mario's daughter-in-law who took
the helm of Prada, and maintained it for almost twenty years. Her
own daughter,
Miuccia Prada, joined
the company in 1970. Miuccia began making waterproof backpacks out
of
Pocone. She met Patrizio Bertelli
in 1977, an Italian who had begun his own leathergoods business at
the age of 17, and he joined the company soon on. He advised
Miuccia—and she followed the advice—on better decisions for the
Prada company. It was his advice to discontinue importing English
goods and to change the existing luggage styles.
Prada's ascent into high-fashion
Miuccia inherited the company in 1978 by which time sales were up
to U.S.
US$450,000. With Bertelli alongside
her as business manager, Miuccia was allowed time to implement her
creativity onto design. She would go on to incorporate her ideas
into the house of Prada that would change it. She released her
first set of backpacks and totes in 1979. They were made out of a
tough military spec black nylon that her grandfather had used as
coverings for steamer trunks. Initial success was not instant, as
they were hard to sell due to the lack of advertising and
high-prices, but the lines would go on to become her first
commercial hit. Next, Miuccia and Bertelli sought out wholesale
accounts for the bags in upscale department stores and boutiques
worldwide. In 1983, Prada opened a second boutique in Milan
reminiscent to the original shop, but with a sleek and modern
contrast to it.
It was opened in the shopping district of
Galleria
Vittorio Emanuele II
.
The next year, Prada released its nylon tote.
That same year, the
house of Prada began expansion across continental Europe by opening locations in prominent shopping
districts within Florence
, Paris
, Madrid
, and
New York
City
. A shoe line was also released in 1984.
Miuccia released the classic Prada handbag in 1985, that went on to
become an overnight sensation. It was practical and fashionable,
functional and sturdy. In 1987, Miuccia and Bertelli married. Prada
launched its women's ready-to-wear collection in 1989, and the
designs came to be known for their dropped waistlines and narrow
belts. Prada's popularity skyrocketed when the fashion world took
notice of its clean lines, opulent fabrics, and basic colors.
Time described the apparel
as "unassertive, combining traditional good manners and an
ultramodern industrial sleekness." Truly, the designs to come out
of the House of Prada reflected the feminine worker aesthetic,
which made it quite unique in contrast to other high-fashion
brands. It would be identified with affluent working women who held
demanding jobs." Thus, it is no surprise that Miuccia took it upon
herself to call her women's outfits "uniforms."
The logo for the label, the Prada silver-and black triangle, was
not as obvious a design element as those on bags from other
prominent luxury brands such as
Louis
Vuitton. And its appeal, including the apparel, was its image
of "anti-status" or "reverse snobbery."
1990s
Prada's originality made it one of the most influential fashion
houses, and the brand became a premium status symbol in the 1990s.
The signature Prada look encompassed luxurious fabrics in mostly
black, browns, grays, greens, and creams to create simple, yet
provocative styles.
Life in Italy states that clothing was
"sexy and spoke of confidence without revealing too much skin.
Accessories included skinny leather belts, elegant high heeled
shoes, and of course, the classic handbag."
Sales were reported at L 70 billion, or US$31.7 million, in 1990.
Partrizio di Marco took charge of the growing business in the
United States after working for the house in
Asia. He was successful in having the Prada bags
prominently displayed in department stores, so that they could
become a hit with fashion editors. Prada's continued success was
attributed to its "working-class" theme which, Ginia Bellafante at
the New York Times Magazine proclaimed, "was becoming chic in the
high-tech, IPO-driven early 1990s." Furthermore, now husband and
wife, Miuccia and Bertelli led the Prada label on a cautious
expansion, making products hard to come by.
In 1992, the clothing brand
Miu Miu, named
after Miuccia's nickname, launched. Miu Miu catered to younger
consumers by offering apparel constructed out of "tacky synthetic
fabrics". By 1993 Prada was awarded the
Council of Fashion
Designers of America award for accessories.
Men's ready-to-wear collections were launched in the mid-1990s. By
1994, sales were at US$210 million, with clothing sales accounting
for 20% (expected to double in 1995).
Prada won another
award from the CFDA, in 1995 as a "designer of the year" 1996
witnessed the opening of the 18,000 ft2 Prada
boutique in Manhattan,
New York
, the largest in the chain at the time.
By now the
House of Prada operated in 40 locations worldwide, 20 of which were
in Japan
. The
company owned eight factories and subcontracted work from 84 other
manufacturers in Italy. Miuccia's Prada and Bertelli company were
merged to create Prapar B.V. in 1996. The name, however, was later
changed to Prada B.V. and Patrizio Bertelli was named Chief
Executive Officer of the Prada luxury company.
In 1997, Prada posted the revenue at US$674 million. Another store
in Milan opened that same year. According to the
Wall Street Journal, Bertelli
smashed the windows of the store a day before the opening, after he
had become deeply unsatisfied with the set-up. Prada also acquired
shares in the
Gucci group, and later
blamed Gucci for "aping his wife's designs." In June 1998, Bertelli
gained 9.5% interests at US$260 million. Analysts began to
speculate that he was attempting a take over of the Gucci group.
The proposition seemed unlikely, however, because Prada was at the
time still a small company and was in debt.
Funding
Universe states that "At the very least, Prada had a voice as
one of Gucci's largest shareholders (a 10 percent holding would be
required for the right to request a seat on the board) and would
stand to profit tidily should anyone try to take over Gucci."
However, Bertelli sold his shares to
Moët-Hennessy
• Louis Vuitton chairman
Bernard
Arnault in January 1998 for a profit of US$140 million. Arnault
was in fact attempting a take over of Gucci. LVMH had been
purchasing fashion companies for a while and already owned
Dior,
Givenchy,
and other luxury brands. Gucci, however, managed to fend him off by
selling a 45$stake to industrialist
François Pinault, for US$3 billion.
In 1998,
the first Prada menswear boutique opened in Los Angeles
.
Prada was determined to hold a leading portfolio of luxury brands,
like the Gucci group and LVMH. Prada purchased 51% of
Helmut Lang's company based in New York
for US$40 million in March 1999. Lang's company was worth about
US$100 million. Months later, Prada paid US$105 million to have
full control of
Jil Sander A.G., a
German-based company with annual revenue of US$100 million.
The
purchase gained Prada a foothold in Germany
, and months
later Jil Sander resigned as chairwoman of her namesake
company. Church &
Company, an English shoes maker, also came under the control of
Prada, when Prada bought 83% of the company at US$170 million. A
joint venture between Prada and the
De
Rigo group was also formed that year to produce Prada eyewear.
In October
1999, Prada joined with LVMH and beat Gucci to buy a 51% stake in
the Rome
-based
Fendi S.p.A. Prada's share of the
purchase (25.5%) was worth US$241.5 million out of the reported
US$520 million total paid by both Prada and LVMH. Prada took on
debts of Fendi, as the latter company was not doing well
financially.
These acquisitions elevated Prada to the top of the luxury goods
market in Europe. Revenue tripled from that of 1996, to L 2
trillion. Despite apparent success, the company was still in
debt.
A new look into the 21st century
The company's merger and purchasing sprees slowed in the 2000s.
However, the company signed a loose agreement with
Azzedine Alaia. Skin care products were
introduced in the United States in October 2000. A 30-day supply of
cleansing lotion was marketed at the retail price of US$100. To
help pay off debts of over US$850 million, the company planned on
listing 30% of the company on the Milan Stock Exchange in June
2001. However, the offering slowed down after a decline in spending
on luxury goods in the United States and Japan. In 2001, under the
pressure of his bankers, Bertelli sold all of Prada's 25.5% share
in Fendi to LVMH. The sale raised only US$295 million.
By 2006, the
Helmut
Lang,
Amy Fairclough, and
Jil Sander labels were sold. Jil Sander
was sold to the private equity firm Change Capital Partners, which
was headed by Luc Vandevelde, the chairman of
Carrefour, while the Helmut Lang label is now
owned by Japanese fashion company Link Theory. Prada is still
recovering from the Fendi debt. More recently, a 45% stake of the
Church & Company brand has been sold to
Equinox.
According to
Fortune,
Betelli plans on increasing revenue of the company to US$5 billion
by 2010.
Prada manufactures its wares in Italy, apparently keeping labor
costs down by using Chinese laborers at the plants.
Prada is the main buyer from the Turkish leather factory DESA,
which was found guilty by the Turkish Supreme Court of illegally
dismissing workers who joined a union. The Clean Clothes Campaign,
a labor rights organization based in Europe, has called on Prada to
ensure that freedom of association is respected at the
factory.
Businesses today
Runway shows
Prada, along with
Calvin Klein and
Gucci, is known for the practice of casting
new models to walk exclusively in their runway shows. Usually, one
of the models chosen as an exclusive will open a Prada show. An
exclusive or opening spot in a Prada show is among the most coveted
bookings in the modeling world. Previous Prada exclusives and
openers who have gone on to success in the fashion world include
Daria Werbowy,
Gemma Ward,
Suvi
Koponen and
Sasha Pivovarova,
who went on to appear in Prada's ad campaigns for six consecutive
seasons after opening the Prada fall 2005 runway show.
Prada boutiques and megastores
Prada has commissioned architects, most notably
Rem Koolhaas and
Herzog & de Meuron, to design
flagship stores in various locations.
A duplex megastore
was opened in Kuala
Lumpur
at the Pavilion
Kuala Lumpur in late 2008. Prada commissioned an
unusual multi-purpose building called the Prada Transformer in Seoul
. And
2009 saw the opening of a new store on Corso Venezia, Milan,
designed by architect Robert Baciocchi, focussing on the Prada
Made to Order collection.
- Asia
- Tokyo
(Asian
epicenter) - many outlets, including the iconic Herzog & de Meuron building in
Aoyama
- Korea
- Seoul
, Busan
, Daegu
, Jeju, Sungnam, total of 22 stores
- Kuala Lumpur
(Pavilion KL, Jalan Bukit Bintang, Suria KLCC
)
- Jakarta
, Indonesia
(Plaza
Senayan
, Plaza
Indonesia)
- Singapore
: only flagship at Paragon Mall
- Manila
, Philippines
(Greenbelt
)
- Bangkok
, Thailand
(Gaysorn Plaza,
The Emporium)
- China: 7 stores
LG Prada cell phone
In May 2007, Prada joined forces with
cell
phone maker
LG Electronics to
produce the
LG Prada KE850 phone. The
retail price was $800.
In 2009,
KF900, the second generation of the
phone, was launched in Europe. With
3G
capability, the phone featured a new sliding
QWERTY keyboard, which made it bulkier, but
functional. The phone also worked with the new Prada Link watch,
which users can use to view text messages via a
Bluetooth connection to their phone.
Prada in culture
- The Devil Wears Prada is
a 2003 novel about a ruthless, short tempered boss, who is the
renowned editor-in-chief of Runway, a fictional version of
Vogue, and wears designer clothes,
such as Prada and Hermès
.
Its 2006 film
adaptation stars Meryl Streep and
Anne Hathaway.
- An American metalcore band also took the name The Devil Wears Prada.
- In
2005, a pair of Scandinavian artists,
Michael Elmgreen and Ingar Dragset, unveiled [70311], a sculpture masquerading as a Prada
mini-boutique, nearby the towns of Valentine
and Marfa
in western
Texas. Located along an isolated stretch of U.S. Highway
90, the 15-by-25-foot adobe and stucco building was partially
funded by the Prada Foundation, with the assistance of American
architects Ronald Rael and Virginia San Fratello. To the dismay of
potential shoppers, the doors were sealed shut.
- The 2007 anime Appleseed Ex Machina
has two costumes designed by Prada.
References
- http://www.prada.us/redir/prada-home
- http://www.labornotes.org/flexinode/list/3
- http://www.cleanclothes.org/luxury-brands-drag-their-feet
- [1]Fashion guru Prada designs for Appleseed by
blog.newsarama.com