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Schwartz's
For the Ottawa road, see St.
Laurent Boulevard. For the Gatineau road called
"Boulevard Saint-Laurent", see Boulevard des
Allumettières
Saint Lawrence Boulevard or
boulevard Saint-Laurent (its official name, in
French) is a major street in
Montreal
, Quebec
, Canada
. A
commercial artery and cultural heritage site, the street runs
north-south through the near-centre of city and is nicknamed
The Main.
The Main
-2.JPG/180px-Petite_Italie_(Montr%C3%A9al)-2.JPG)
St. Lawrence Street, Little
Italy.
Beginning
at De la Commune Street at the edge of the Saint Lawrence
River
, it crosses the whole island through the boroughs of Ville-Marie
, Le Plateau-Mont-Royal
, Rosemont—La Petite-Patrie,
Villeray–Saint-Michel–Parc-Extension
, and Ahuntsic-Cartierville
to Rue Somerville at the edge of Rivière des Prairies– a total
length of about 11.25 kilometres.
St. Laurent Street became a boulevard in 1905, and is
affectionately referred to as
The Main by many
Montrealers. It serves as the city's physical division of east and
west. Street numbers begin at Saint Lawrence and continue outward,
with street names being suffixed by Ouest (West) or Est (East),
depending on their orientation.
The street traditionally divides Montreal by language, ethnicity,
and class. Saint Lawrence Street was for generations the symbolic
dividing line for the city, with the predominantly English-speaking
population to the west, French-speaking population to the east, and
immigrant communities in between along the Main and Park Avenue.
The Main runs through many of Montreal's ethnic communities, a
first stop for immigrant communities for over 100 years — initially
Jewish, Chinese and Italian, and later Portuguese, Greek, Arab,
Haitian and others.
The
southern section of the street in downtown Montreal and the
Plateau
is lined with trendy shops and restaurants, and is
the site of many street-fairs and festivals. What were once
run-down factories have been turned into expensive lofts. Saint
Lawrence Boulevard is representative of Montreal's shift out of the
economic decline in the 1980s and 90s.
National Historic Site
In 2002, the Historic Sites and Monuments Board of Canada named
Saint Lawrence Boulevard as
The Main National Historic Site of
Canada. Then Minister of Heritage,
Sheila Copps, speaking at the ceremony, said:
"our country does not belong to just two founding peoples. It
belongs to all Canadians. [This is] a first step toward a new story
of Canada that includes all of our partners as equals."
Historic Jewish quarter
The Jewish community on the Main sprang up after the heavy
immigration of the early to mid-1900s.
Jewish settlement
occurred first on the lower Main, in an section that now is part of
Montreal's Chinatown
.
By 1871, a
Jewish enclave numbering just over 400 people had formed by the
corner of St. Lawrence and Dorchester Street
, with the first Jewish educational institution, the
Talmud Torah, located at the corner of Saint Urbain
Street
and De la Gauchetière Street
. Middle class members of the community were
already beginning to move up the Main towards Sherbrooke
and Prince Arthur Streets, while further north, a
small number of well-off Jews lived near McGill
University
.
The main
axes of Jewish quarter were Saint Laurent Boulevard, Clark Street,
Saint Urbain
Street
, Esplanade Street and Park Avenue,
Montreal
. By the 1920s and 30s, dozens of synagogues
were in the area.
Landmarks on Saint Laurent that bear witness
to this historic community include Schwartz's
delicatessen.
Yiddish was the common language in the Jewish district on Saint
Laurent Boulevard, with many Jewish immigrants working in clothing
factories, once the street's main industry.
Cultural life
The district was home to the second largest
Yiddish theatre in North America from 1896 to the
1940s, with shows at vaudeville houses along the Main, as well as
the
Monument National — now a
National Historic Site and part of the
National Theatre School of
Canada.
The Main was also a centre of Jewish publishing. In 1907, a young
Polish Jewish immigrant
Hirsch
Wolofsky started the Yiddish language daily newspaper
Keneder Odler (English:
Canadian Eagle). The
paper was initially published from an office on Saint Laurent near
Ontario Street. However, with the success of Keneder Odler,
Wolofsky soon moved his paper to its own building at 4075 Saint
Laurent, near Duluth Street. The paper would publish for more than
50 years. Today, Wolofsky is remembered with a small park in his
honour at the corner of nearby De Bullion and Roy streets.
Politics
The poor Jewish quarter had a distinctly left-wing slant.
Fred Rose represented the Main’s
Cartier riding until 1947, when he was expelled from the House of
Commons after a controversial conviction on charges of spying for
the Soviet Union. To this day, the Main remains the only part of
Canada ever represented in Parliament by a Communist.
Area city counselor Joseph Schubert, a Romanian Jew, was a
socialist and admirer of Karl Marx. Elected to Montreal City
Council in 1924, he was the council’s most prominent advocate of
worker’s rights for 15 years. In 1931, he built a public bathhouse
at the corner of Bagg and St. Lawrence, which still stands today as
the Schubert Bath (official French name:
Bain
Schubert).
Decline
By the 1950s, many Jews had moved to other communities and most
shuls were demolished or converted to other uses. Former prominent
Jewish-run businesses on the street included Ida Steinberg’s
grocery store, founded in 1917 on St. Lawrence near Mount Royal,
which went on to become
Steinberg's,
Quebec’s largest supermarket chain. Another supermarket, Warshaw,
was recently the subject of controversy when the city of Montreal
was forced to pay damages after first approving and then rejecting
changes to its iconic storefront.
As of 2003, fewer than 10 Jewish-owned and
family-run businesses remained on the Main between Sherbrooke
Street
and Mount Royal Avenue
.
Neighbourhoods
Today,
Saint Lawrence is home to Little Italy
(between Saint-Zotique and Jean-Talon streets), Mile
End
between Mount Royal
and Van Horne
Avenues, Montreal's Little Portugal
, clustered around Duluth and Rachel Streets, a bar
district (roughly between Sherbrooke and Duluth streets), a small
red-light district and Montreal's
Chinatown
(between Viger Street and René
Lévesque Boulevard
).
Famous residents
The Main has produced many of Canada's most prolific individuals in
the arts and has acted as a memory space. Novelists
Mordecai Richler and
Michel Tremblay and poets
Irving Layton,
A.
M. Klein and
Leonard Cohen were all influenced by
this area. Canada's most prestigious award for fiction, the
Scotiabank Giller Prize, was
named after journalist
Doris Giller, a
native to the area.
Depictions in popular culture
Sass Jordan's 1992 hit single "Going
Back Again" also depicts Saint Lawrence Boulevard as the dividing
line between Montreal's English and French cultures, expressing the
hope that "Someday we will come together/Reach across this great
divide".
Trevanian's 1976 novel
The
Main is set in the more run-down district of the sixties,
before the modern renaissance.
Businesses and attractions
Numerous art galleries and other cultural organizations make their
home on the Main. including
La
Centrale/Powerhouse (Canada's oldest women's artist-run
centre),
Ethnik-art,
The Festival du Nouveau
Cinema,
Festival International
Nuits d'Afrique, the Montreal
Fringe
Festival,
Image &
Nation Festival,
My Hero
Gallery, the
Society
for Arts and Technology and
Sensation
Mode. Many well-known music venues can be found on the Main,
including
Casa del Popolo,
Sala Rosa, Club Soda, ,
Jupiter Room, ,
Club
Lambi,
The Academy Club and
Divan Orange.
The street is also
home to the National
Theatre School of Canada as well as the EXcentris
cinema complex, adjacent to the offices of Softimage. Gastronomic
highlights include Montreal's famous smoked
meat deli Schwartz's
as well as the Montreal Pool Room, serving Montreal hot dogs since 1912.
Twice
each summer, a street fair closes The Main from Sherbrooke
Street
to Mount Royal Avenue
, once to begin the season in mid-June, and a second
time to close it the weekend before Labour Day.
The Société de développement du boulevard Saint-Laurent (SDBSL) is
a merchant's association the promoting economic, social and
cultural development of Saint-Laurent Boulevard between Sherbrooke
Street and Mont-Royal Avenue.
Redevelopment and construction
The
corner of Saint Lawrence and Saint Catherine
streets is still known as a red-light district, although its days
appear numbered as a proposed $167-million development is slated to
transform the area, now part of the city's new Quartier des
Spectacles.
In 2007-2008, the street underwent extensive and lengthy
construction work, which forced some businesses to close.
Notes
References
- Podmore, Julie. 1999. St. Lawrence Boulevard as a Third
City: Place, Gender and Difference along Montréal's 'Main'.
PhD Dissertation: McGill University.
- Tremblay, Michel. 1976. Sainte Carmen de la Main.
Montréal: Leméac.
- Richler, Mordecai. 1969. The Street. Toronto:
McClelland and Stewart.
External links